Maxx

If you destroy every star nuts you try to put in 1 month, then you're doing something wrong (incorrect size, bad installation, overclamping the bolt). Keep in mind the star nut should be "hard" to put in the steerer, but not too hard. Not too loose too. And you must tighten the headset bolt just enough in order to remove any play, you don't need to tighten it more.

I forget to say, Gilles Coustellier rode (maybe still ride) Dt Swiss Aerolite on his bikes (which are the equivalent for Cx-Ray, but more expensive). I personally prefer to gain weight on spokes rather than on the hub : you can easily replace a spoke, and that's also cheaper to replace a spoke than a hub ...

I have ridden these for like 6 months on two Try-all K2 wheels, and I never had any lateral/radial trueness problems. You also need a spoke holder to prevent spokes to twisting. But don't forget the key of a good and long lasting wheel is a good building. A good wheel building is accomplished by : - good tolerances on lateral/radial/dish trueness, but not too high ! It is completely useless to have 0.01mm tolerances ! - high and uniform spokes tension (if your wheel is dished you'll have different tension on freewheel side and non freewheel side). You need to have a tensiometer for that thing, past results have proved that "30 years experience wheelbuilders in bike shops" are wrong when they say they check the tension with the hands. - stressing the wheel many times during the process until the wheel doesn't go out of true when stressing.

Yes I have the hub but it is assembled in the wheel so that I can't take the measures accurately. I could disassemble the wheel to measure it but then I would have to rebuild the wheel so that I can ride my bike while waiting for new spokes to arrive at home.

All in the title. I'm after the flanges' diameters (I suppose they're both the same - left / right ?) and the "Left Flange - Center" and "Right Flange - Center" lenghts. If someone could help me it would be great ! Thanks

Never tried LGM, but you can't go wrong with ADM. They still work when grind is dead.

I don't think you have to be especially innovative. What most people don't understand is that to become rich is not necessarily in the idea, but in the execution of the idea. I mean you can have an average idea, but make an excellent execution of it and you'll get money. You can also have the best idea of the century and make some shit of it. By the way you'll be surprised how many hours some 'new richs' work everyday (I know two 'new richs' as they're called, and I can say one is barely working 2 hours a day). Nobody here is going to tell you how to earn 1,000,000£, just search by yourself and I'm sure you'll find.

Who told you that ?

How can it feel better whereas it has more power ? We were a group of 5 riders the other day : one with 2014, one with 2011 and me with 2005 hs33. We all had 4 fingers lever blades. We all five found that 2005 > 2014 > 2011. And by the way 2005 and 2014 were on the same frame.

They're better than 2010-2013 ones, but not better than 2005-2010 ones (I mean in finger's feelings). All with 4-fingers lever blades and antifreeze bleeds.

It's funny how feelings can vary from one person to another. I find them middling. I tried them on a friend's bike, I agree they're better than 2011 in terms of feeling (both 4 fingers lever blades) but not as good as 2005. In terms of power I can't pronounce myself. For the moment I'll stick with 05 ones or maybe the new Tensile lever (I saw them for sale, has anybody tried them ?)

This is what I used to do before I start to remove them by heating them, but I often get some scratch on them if I cut the hose with a knife and I don't think it's good for etancheity.

I usually remove steel barbed fitting by heating them, then I just pull the hose with a plier. But I wonder what will it do if I heat the titanium barbed fittings? Will they be still usable ? Thanks !

I use anti-seize grease and it's perfect, no leaks at all

f**k I have the same ones. I have ridden them for 2 months now, but I'm lighter than you, so maybe they will last a bit more ?

Were they the 170 or 175mm version ? And how much do you weight ? How is this happened ?

Where on Facebook did you see them ? And when Tensile release their new levers ? They were announced a few months ago and they're still not there ...

All my front wheels since 3/4 years has been radially laced, and never had any problems like this ! And I tight my spokes A LOT.

2014 hs33 are also available in 2 finger lever blade. One thing I really don't like with carbotecture body (2010 or 2014) is the lever pivot : a bolt like 05 hs33 was A LOT better

It was with coust pads. But I believe you as my friend is not a good mechanician ... And how do you compare them to 2005 or 2011 hs33 ?

I have squeezed the lever on a friend's Cleep, I don't know if the brake was badly mounted or whatever, but it was almost as spongy as a 2011 Hs33 with 4-finger lever blade.

I have them on K2 rims. Of course it depends of the set up : rim, grind, alignment ... etc Two more things : - they are less grind-dependant than others pads I've tried (I've never seen grinds last so long !) - even if your pads are not 100% parallel to your rims, they perform very good (washerless brake clamps with angled sidewalls ...). And when they become parallel (wear at an certain angle) they're AMAZING. I'll see with the time if they stay like this ... I've rode with them for 1 months (almost every day riding) Even when I am with all my weight under the angle of a rock (sorry don't know how to say correctly), they don't slip. But it depends of people also ... you know some people here ride everyday the same grind for 6 months and they have the best brake ever (hum hum), or some others have also the best brake, and when you have a go on their bike, it's pure shit ...

I've tried Koxx blue/brown/yellow, Coust (originals), Rockpads, Heatsink yellow, Trialtech, TNN LGM and TNN ADM. TNN ADM are the best one. If I had to rate them, I'll give 10/10 (really) Hold is perfect. Never slipped. Bite is also perfect. And sound is very good. I won't test or ride any others pads in the future, because they perform the best you can think, so there is no point to test others. edit : front and rear of course !

Everything can fail. But carbon bars are stiffer and stronger than aluminium bars, it's a fact, everyone I know who have carbon bar notice that. Unless your bar have quality problem. So stop saying carbon bars are shit. I have broken 3 aluminium bars, but I've never broken carbon bars.

You can try to twist your cylinders, but I'm not sure it's the best solution. The flex maybe from pads/clamps/cylinder's piston/fork's mounts Yes you can interchange your pads (not just turn, because even if it's not visible most of rims have angled sidewalls, and the pad has this shape), but I personnaly prefer to flatening them. And as UK_SPAWN said, set your cylinders as close as possible from the rim it will potentially reduce flexing. And try to only use your brake in a way that doesn't wear your pads (so ON/OFF is better).