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Miles Mallinson

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Everything posted by Miles Mallinson

  1. stick with creepy crawlers if you like them or consider a monty or try all but maxxis are good for natural and street stuff, for brake pads, alot of people rave about heatsink yellow pads i prefere powers pads from superstar components myself it just depends on your rim surface and your brake feel
  2. hi i see you have a onza t pro, did you buy it off a guy in oxford?, i used to own it its traveled pretty far from up in scotland,just wanted to know how she getting on

    1. the

      the

      I've not been on this website in a very long time and I can't remember whether I replied to you or not. I've sold the bike on now and I can't remember if the previous owner was from Oxford. All I can remember was that he was Polish or similar. Bike rode great though, I just didn't get on with 20" wheels as well as I was hoping. Moved on to 26" wheels now!

  3. most pads have a bedding in period, it should say on the box you got the pads in that about 10-20 stops without fully braking will bed them in, most riders prefere have that squeak so they know their brake is working and ive found that the squeaky ones are alot sharper when braking, have a look at ryan leechs stuff and there is nearly always a trials section in mtb films like the colective and earthed series. Also to get the full effect of your brake maybe think about grinding your rims so you can get a better hold
  4. agree and they have spoilers on the top so you can go even faster! Mine gets pretty hot sometimes but its worth it for the protection its got
  5. you will feel the difference at the start but like all things it takes getting used to, the geometry isn't really ideal for hopping on the back wheel for long and also because i think the rip has a smaller back wheel it isn't as easy to get the front wheel up but you can experiment with different stem rises and stack heights for more leverage up front. I'd try a similar bike out before you buy but you won't regret going to 24 inch. The full bike zoot has got pretty good components on it for the price you may want to get it and upgrade from there, like new brakes and your own personal bar, stem set up, it may turn out cheaper if you buy the full bike first.
  6. proberly the best way to aline the calipers is undoing both the clamps and squeeze the brake lever quite tight and put a cable tie on the lever or get someone to help you keep the front brake on and tighten the bolts up
  7. the wheel could be off centered slighty, loosen everything like the wheel and brake clamps and then tighten them up proper. The 4 bolt clamps might also be off centered so undo the side of the brake which is rubbing and push the caliper away from the rim
  8. around £70 it comes with evo mounts for v brake so you might need to buy 4 bolt clamps for around £20
  9. you'll want a wide rim, you can get custom wheels made on chain reaction so you can chose your hub, rim and other stuff, it depends if you running a freehub for a cassette or a screw on sprocket, maybe a dmr revolver for a screw on or a halo spin doctor, shimano xt for a freehub. It all depends how much you want to spend you can get cheap trials wheels on ebay like onza hogz but they don't come with disc adapters if needed. For a rim look at halo combats or anything else that takes your fancy but make sure they are pretty wide so you can run low pressure on you tyre onza wheels halo spin doctor proberly best idea to go with a trials specific wheel like a echo tr they will be light and strong and not to expensive for a good wheel echo tr you could also get tarty to build a wheel up for you
  10. ive heard that the echo isn't very reliable, i love the hs33 there isn't much i can say thats bad about it apart from the tpa system sometimes acts up and they are cheap anyway
  11. thanks for the info on the ratios i might try 18-12 for a bit to see what its like

  12. oh damn it i just thought it was always 6 less that the front sprocket for a 22-16 thats why i changed to 24-18 and it didn't feel any different, i'll give it a shot and if it doesn't work out then i'll get a 23t sprocket for the front.
  13. i saw it on pinkbike and was gonna ask you what are the rims so what are the rims , trialtech?
  14. just now i run 24-18 with a rear freewheel but getting some new cranks and sprocket from tarty and swapping it over so its 18-12
  15. Hi Im guessing a few riders are from the great north area of Lancashire on here so i just wanted to ask where are the best spots for natural riding, theres obviously Lee Quarry but i want to go to a few other places while im down there, ive seen a few tartybikes videos in preston and stuff. Thanks in advance.
  16. lizard skin charger lock on or standard are really good
  17. also check all the 4 bolt clamp as its a new bike it might have a few loose bolts, if its not the headset it maybe this
  18. rowan johns uses them on his 26 inch and his 24inch so they must be pretty strong
  19. you may need to bleed the system, also your tpa might be threaded (the little red dial on the lever) have a look on the magura website about how to do it or get you local bike shop to do it
  20. i haven't seen too many on 24inch bikes, emailed tarty and they said it was fine
  21. on my old t-pro the tpa broke so i cut to length a bolt and filed two sides flat so it fitted in the lever and used a bolt to screw it in to the lever, its a bodge job and starts to wear away the plastic casings but it works just so you aren't without a bike while your waiting for your replacement
  22. i found it pretty hard for a while but if you keep riding it you get used to the power you have to put in to every move, i found it hard because its so easy to bring your front wheel up on street terrain but because rocks are so grabby its alot harder just keep practicing on smaller rocks and you'll progress on to bigger stuff
  23. yeh like the danny macaskill perfect moment video

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