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Swoofty

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Swoofty last won the day on January 29

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About Swoofty

  • Birthday 01/24/1975

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  • Website URL
    https://www.youtube.com/user/swoofty1

Previous Fields

  • County (UK Only)
    Non UK
  • Real Name
    Peter Norman
  • Bike Ridden
    Multiple
  • Quick Spec
    2019 Czar Neuron 26; Crewkerz Guilty; Ozonys Curve V8 26"
  • Country
    United States

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Male
  • Interests
    MTB, windsurfing, VW GTI tuning, elecrticity
  • Location
    Los Angeles, California

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Swoofty's Achievements

Trials Dude

Trials Dude (3/9)

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  1. Are they actually gonna sell these? Does anybody know the geo? There's no info about it on the US specialized website. Once I saw the sliding dropouts, I'm not interested, but still curious.
  2. More changes... the Zoot fork that I was running was given to me because it was likely cracked. After sanding around the weld, it's definitely cracked 😞 On to spare fork number two; a Jitsie alu fork. Not crazy about the Jitsie fork, but it matches this build fair enough. This will never be a hardcore street bike so the Jitsie will be fine. The new fork is post mount so I had to lose the Echo brake and swap down to a bargain basement Zoom disc that performs surprisingly well for $30. I didn't bother with an adapter either so it's 160mm up front now. The rear V mounts are so narrow I'm not sure I could get larger tires to fit, but the 2.0 tires I have now are not very confidence inspiring. Still waiting for a proper ride beyond the driveway.
  3. Once the frame arrived, I measured the dropouts and just as I feared, it was 110mm (111mm actually). This meant that my spare 135 hub wasn't gonna fit and my 32h spare rim was going to be fairly useless as the vast majority of 110 hubs are 36h. I found basically one 32h 110 hub from Black Ops, but when I called them, they couldn't tell me the POE of the hub sadly. The Black Ops was going to be $135 too so I decided to have a look at the new mod freehubs to see if any of those would fit. I was thrilled to discover that the Comas freehub is 112mm and has an HG cassette carrier. The Comas was $186 which kinda sucks for a spare parts build since the frame was only $158, but since I really want this to be a mostly legit street trials bike, I figured having a real trials capable freehub was probably the right choice. The Comas is a 12mm through axle so I had a custom stepdown axle made that would take 10mm nuts with chaintugs. My shoulder is still buggin me, but the gentle rides I've done feel pretty promising. I took the geo off it tonight and it comes out to 1003 wheelbase, 388 chainstay and +7 BB (give or take). So stay tuned to see how this Haro Sloride 24" gets along with some street trials.
  4. From the website, I knew the bike had a Mid BB and those come in 19mm, 22mm or 24mm. I have quite a few old Echo ISIS axles lying around and some old ISIS cranks too, so 22mm was the call. The BB is 74mm and I didn't bother to try and take up the extra 2mm between the stops on the axle so I just have to mount the cranks evenly so it doesn't knock back and forth. I have some pretty nice BB mounting tools, but putting those Mid bearings in with an axle sticking out was royal pain. That alone pretty much guarantees this will remain an ISIS bike. The first cranks to go on were an old Onza zoot drive arm (18t screw on) and an Echo non drive arm. That combo, with a 13t in the rear, sadly didn't leave enough chainstay clearance, but it provided a nice chainstay length for the sliding dropouts. Luckily I had some old FSA ISIS double cranks so I tried 22x16, but that combo was way too long. Next up was 24x17 and it was just right. Just need better chain tugs now.
  5. For all of you out there who like long chainstays and 24" wheels, boy have I got something for you! It's got V brakes (native!). It's got 112mm rear spacing!?! It's got an Echo TR IS brake caliper, rotor and hub! It's also sporting an Onza Zoot Pro fork. And the frame is aluminium! I'd been cleaning/organizing my garage lately and realized I had quite a few spare/old parts that I could build a Frankenstein 24" bike from. The one part i didn't have was a frame. I'm pretty familiar with 98% of all 24" frames from the past 16 years or so, but I wanted something a little different; and cheap. The 24" BMX scene is a ghost town since the big wheeled wheelie bikes came out (kinda always has been tiny really). Southern California was one of the birthplaces of BMX so without looking too far, you can find a lot of old bikes, even 24"s. After some searching, I kinda decided I wanted a Wethepeople Avenger 24 frame. The problem was that no one seemed to want to give one up for cheap (< $150). Then, I found it. A brand new, half price cruiser frame; and it's even purple <3! Finally got the rough draft assembled last night and it's close. Sadly I crashed on my shoulder earlier this week so I can't really ride it yet, but the initial driveway spin was promising.
  6. Has anyone used the DMR DJ24 tyres for street trials? They're nearly impossible to find here in the States, so before I spend $30 on shipping, are they any good?
  7. It's called precession. It happens to lots of front freewheel setups regardless of the price of the equipment. Since you've got the BB shell alignment, the BB bearings, the axle and the freewheel all able to be misaligned, the chances of a perfectly round rotating freewheel are slim. My OCD really hates it too. On some bikes it's not too bad and on others it's more like "are you kidding me?" Sounds like you have the latter. If you've got a friend with a dial indicator, you can try and align the bearings and the crank axle at least, but even then the freewheel will still be the wild card. Unfortunately I don't know a guaranteed way to fix it, but it is very common at least.
  8. Well said! I agree 100%
  9. Sell the hub and get a proper single speed hub. You're putting way too much effort into a lost cause.
  10. Any dry conditions yet? How are they holding up?
  11. So here's the end of the story with my Urbex. I guess at heart I am truly a weight weenie. I liked the way the bike rode and felt, but it was certainly not better than my Guilty. The bike was ultimately destined to live at my Mother-in-laws house in Germany and it would have been great for that, but the more I thought about it, just getting another Guilty seemed like the way to go. So my old Guilty lives in Hamburg now and I have a shiny new Guilty here in Santa Monica. It was a replacement for my 2010 Onza Zoot in Hamburg so it was a real step up and it was nice to finally ride Hamburg with a bike that I fully trusted. The Urbex moved on to a new owner who hopefully loves it. TMS will need to make a heck of a bike for me to go down that road again. Happy trials!
  12. And now with Extention carbon fork! 19.2lbs/8.7kgs
  13. I've used tubolito only in the front, but never had a problem. Only one flat from a gnarly piece of glass. Here in the States I've had no luck finding the schrader version of the tubos and I really dislike presta valves. It also doesn't get cold here in Los Angeles so can't comment on that.
  14. I've used the Comas and the WAW crewkerz bars. I found the WAW too stiff for street, but the Comas is perfect. I've broken one Comas bar after it was damaged in a crash. It didn't fail catastrophically, just started to flex at the damage site. I have yet to replace a Comas bar due to age. My oldest one is almost 3 years old now and has been on multiple bikes and I don't use a torque wrench on it either.
  15. I've owned I9 Hydra SS, Profile Elite SS, several Hope SS models (not 5 yet), TMS SS and I've just ordered a new Aluadark SS hub. Anything over 72 click is ok by me for street trials, but it's really easy to get comfortable with the instant engagement of the I9 or the Profile. The new 120mm freehubs do look a bit questionable, but we'll be the first to hear about it. Only advantage I can see is less weight, less drag and faster engagement. Reliability has been on par across the board from my experience. Don't forget that the higher engagement hubs also experience less load on the pawls/ring due to less acceleration before engagement, ie less force slamming the pawl into the ring.
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