bike_dummie

Hi, If you have any good fails in this years snow post them up here

If you don't want to spend more than £40 you could get a tensile 60 click, very reliable and value for money! Don't worry about engagement points as you are only a beginer so it wont matter that much unless you really want the engagement then you could go for the 96 click for an extra £10. Also everyone is saying that the SL is really good but i have to disagree because the newer SL are no where near as good as the old silver ones as ive gone through 2 Newer SL's in just over 6months plus the tensile has replaceable parts unlike SL's!

That's the one!

You need to look for stripper in a plastic container as any stripper in a metal container will be weak as the main ingredients in stripper that works will eat through a tin provided there is enough! Also any stripper in a plastic container will be stronger than the old nitromors aswell! Look on industrial websites or maybe automotive shops specializing in the painting side of things. I have some saved in my favourites that is 5L but will have to link it later as I'm on my phone

I think brakeless comps would be really cool! But you would need to change it slightly. Maybe something like they get judged on style, efficiency and how well they used the sections with ten points to score in each category. Obviously you would need a more street influenced line aswell, be it street or natural it's defiantly possible!

Great watch if you hadn't already seen it on PB! http://m.pinkbike.com/news/Old-School-Throwback-Dirty-Tricks-and-Cunning-Stunts.html Adam. If someone could embed it for me that would be great as I'm on my phone

Ebc pads are meant to be good with a wide range of compounds including organic (green) and a red compound which I am unsure what it is but it has on off power as I read on dh forums it locks the wheel straight away at the high speeds the roll at! Think Ben at trials addict uses this compound so I have been told.

I know Ben (trials addict) sells them as I was gonna buy one previous so he should know the geo. He also sells them £150 if that's cheaper than what your getting now?

These frames ride very well for tgs with a medium height bar and stem combo. My friends one has lasted a good while, at least 3/4 of a year with no problems at all! He also runs a tr stem with Ty high rise bars rolled forward about 45 degrees from an upright position.

It was a good ride but it was a shame it had to end with a puncture It also looks like Ali is landing harder than he really is and Ali was running stupidly low pressure the first time so it was bound to happen!

I had one of the very first when i was learning and it was replaced by an echo sl within a week. Skipped sooo much and i was only following the local riders around and maybe the odd trackstand Although i have read that the newer trial tech freewheels have a much higher quality and are relatively reliable.

Where they newer kings by any chance?

By flushed out they mean that the grease has been removed. Tensiles come packed with grease so they take longer to bed in but you can take the lockring of and clean it out with a rag and a bit of thin oil.

<blockquote class='ipsBlockquote'data-author="Azarathal" data-cid="2476062" data-time="1356792232"><p> Welding a disc mount on an alu frame wont end well. Jake hicky did it on his maladie / manus (can't remember which) and it tore off iirc</p></blockquote> It was a maladie and if jaf were to do it you could ask for it to be bolted on instead if welded. Could easily be done with 2 bolts through the frame or even better a mount that attaches with a bracket instead to go around the frame holding it on. Also get him to carbon wrap it and it will easily be strong enough for a disc as the carbon will divert all the stress away from the mount ect.

Geo is - 640mm - Reach 390mm - Chainstay 1020 - Wheel Base +10 - Bottom Bracket ? - Head Angle. As Jonny said the bike ride sooo nice!

They don't need to be all the way up to the spacer as Isis still has a slight taper. I also had the same problem with my echo and try all cranks (£100) although I found my 2012 tr cranks fitted on perfectly.

<blockquote class='ipsBlockquote'data-author="DrStix" data-cid="2475541" data-time="1356639065"><p> Ah f**k, I understand now. <br /> <br /> You sure there isn't 19mm worth of shell to remove?</p></blockquote> Yep, I too wanted a rear hope for my bike so I messaged hope for a hub shell from a standard pro2 and a cassette from a pro 2 trials and the guy at hope asked why and informed me that I would need to machine more off and the need to relocate the bearing for it to work. In the end I gave up due to I realised how many echo sl's I could buy with the money of a hope hub not to mention how much weight i saved! The guy had also seen the other hub and said they had to relocate the bearing ect aswell.

You need the shorter standard pro 2 shell and a pro 2 trials cassete as again it is shorter. There is no way you can make it out of one hub as there isn't enough material to remove. I would also avoid the profile idea aswell!

<blockquote class='ipsBlockquote'data-author="bing" data-cid="2475496" data-time="1356632417"><p> Or driver from a profile mini cassette hub, but you will still need to machine the hope axle and modify some spacers to suit. The driver bearings in a profile are the same as in a pro2 driver.</p></blockquote> bit more complicated than that due to they are slightly different to each other. I think I read somewhere that the pawls would move about causing some pretty bad skips ect.

You will need a standard pro2 shell with a pro 2t cassette. You will also need to modify the axles and machine the cassete bet abit shorter and relocate the bearing.

what Geo did you go with in the end? Cant wait to see the final product!

I've got adapter's so i can run 24 or 26 with a magura Although i prefer to ride brakeless as i go bigger and in general it a good laugh

<blockquote class='ipsBlockquote'data-author="JMCD" data-cid="2475272" data-time="1356552135"><p> It's a 25" not 24".</p></blockquote> I know it's 25" but where are you supposed to get a 25" rim from now

99% sure it was meant to be 25" as I know they're still a few around but unfortunately it never took off. I presume it was because of tyre choice or something like that?

Thanks for all the comments It's one of the older Monty frames designed for a 25" wheel But the geo is perfect for a streety 24"!