bike_dummie

The washer idea works very well but you may need to make one of the corners rounded as I found it would get stuck at an angle in the Headtube when turning the tool around.

Get a spoke, and cut the bent end off. Fit the spoke nipple backwards. Then slide the barbed fitting on the spoke, and slide the spoke in magura hose. That way when you clamp your hose and tap the end of the spoke, it holds the barb straight.

Get some filler and seal all the holes cracks ect and any way to get out from the floor or whatever other places you have for the guest to hide/live as remember a mouse can fit through a hole the size of a pen so I've been told. This way you will eventually starve him to death and Maybe others or if you seal him out you'll be seeing a lot more of him allowing you to whack the little bugger with a cricket bat or the like if you quick enough of course There are also little black boxes that emit a odour that will entice the mouse into entering then as soon as the mouse enters the mouse will be electrocuted causing sudden death. But this is last resort as imo chasing a mouse with a bat trying to smash it one sounds rather fun. I'm pressuring you haven't got any pets ect as there are little devices the size of a fire detector that let of ultra sonic waves which sends mice mad with the mice having very.sensitive hearing so they will steer clear of.your house. Actually this could.probably get rid of your current resident if the bat fails. Just read that the poison can cause a lot of problems and can cost a considerable amount of wonga because if he runs of and dies in a un accessible place it says the rat will smell rather bad because of the poison when he rots away.

I tried to make a review thread rather like the one in the bmx section on pb but most people thought it was a stupid idea but I beg to differ as I think it would be handy.

He has a point and has answered your question. Why ask a question when your going to bite back at the answer you get even if its backed up with the fact he's seen videos of your riding? Either way I don't know how you ride but if your a bit of a basher/heavy rider I'd avoid them hence the reason I don't have any

It's better to be safe than sorry if I were you with a £100 set of bars I'd get the compound stuff for the amount of benefits you will receive. Not sure if this is correct but if your bars do slip it could damage the carbon itself unlike alloy bars where you just reposition them you may have damaged them beyond repair. And the comment about crushing the carbon that's unlikely as you will know as you will be needing to be putting a lot of pressure through your tool/bolt with little movement in the clamp. But with the leverage you get on an Allen key you could cause unseen damage to the carbon underneath as mentioned by someone else the compound will reduce this as you won't need to tighten them as much.

I normally start at 25psi and let it Down till I like it.

What bike do you ride as different bikes such as a fourplay and an echo lite will need different pressures.

Get the photo bucket app and upload it to there then just copy the image code.

Isn't that chain too long and needs to be shortened as the deralieur should be closer to a straight line then an L shape presuming it is on the largest chainring upfront.

Guys got balls

It wouldn't be practical yeah 29" wheels roll over terrain better but the are very sluggish and hard to get moving in turn making pedal kicks rolling gaps ect much harder to do.

Lever top up (which is what will do the job 95% of the time, since air naturally rises to the lever): Move the lever so your lever blade is facing the sky, and ideally orientate the bike so the highest point of the piston is the bleed port (see pic). Take plastic / rubber caps off the lever body and hose. Remove little plastic bung from the lever - it has a 2.5mm allen key fitting for ease of removal but it is NOT threaded. Unscrew barbed fitting from lever body (8mm spanner) while looking down the hole you just opened - you will see a black O ring move past the hole. At this point there should be 2 threads on the barbed fitting showing. Plug an empty syringe into the hole, should be the right size to push in perfectly. Fill syringe about half way with your fluid of choice. Pull the lever back to the bars slowly, if there is air in the system you will see bubbles coming up through the fluid in the syringe. Let the lever return slowly, this will replace any air with fluid. Repeat the above two steps a few times, tapping the lever body in between to release any trapped air. Remove syringe from lever body (put something over the end to create a vacuum or you will pour fluid everywhere!). Screw barbed fitting back into the lever body, use some tissue / a rag to catch any overspill from the bleed port. The barbed fitting does NOT need to be tight as on previous versions of the brake! The O Ring you saw moving past the hole in a previous step is what does the sealing, NOT the face of the barbed fitting mating with the lever body. If you overtighten it, you will crack the lever body. Push the little plug back in, by hand is fine, it doesn't provide any function other than stopping crud getting into the bleed port. Test the brake by pulling the lever slowly - the pads should move pretty much as soon as you start pulling the lever. If they don't, read over the instructions below as you may need to do a full bleed instead. Clip all the plastic bits back on and you're done. Full bleed: Unscrew the blanking plug from the slave cylinder. 2/3rds fill a syringe / bleed pipe and screw it into the hole you just opened. Move the lever so your lever blade is facing the sky, and ideally orientate the bike so the highest point of the piston is the bleed port (see pic). Take plastic / rubber caps off the lever body and hose. Remove little plastic bung from the lever - it has a 2.5mm allen key fitting for ease of removal but it is NOT threaded. Unscrew barbed fitting from lever body (8mm spanner) while looking down the hole you just opened - you will see a black O ring move past the hole. At this point there should be 2 threads on the barbed fitting showing. Plug an empty and open (no plunger) syringe into the hole, should be the right size to push in perfectly. Push the bottom syringe plunger slowly, if there is air in the system you will see bubbles coming up into the top (open) syringe. The top syringe will fill up. Optional step: Pull the bottom syringe plunger back, sucking fluid back through the system (but not so far that the top syringe runs out), then repeat the above step while tapping the brake calipers and lever body. With the top syringe just over half full, and the bottom one nearly empty, pull the lever back to the bars slowly. If there is air left in the system you will see bubbles coming up through the open top syringe. Let the lever return slowly, this will replace any air with fluid. Repeat the above two steps a few times, tapping the lever body in between to release any trapped air. Remove syringe from lever body (put something over the end to create a vacuum or you will pour fluid everywhere!). Screw barbed fitting back into the lever body, use some tissue / a rag to catch any overspill from the bleed port. The barbed fitting does NOT need to be tight as on previous versions of the brake! The O Ring you saw moving past the hole in a previous step is what does the sealing, NOT the face of the barbed fitting mating with the lever body. If you overtighten it, you will crack the lever body. Push the little plug back in, by hand is fine, it doesn't provide any function other than stopping crud getting into the bleed port. Remove bottom syringe/pipe from the slave cylinder (you won't lose fluid / let air in since the system will provide a vacuum) and screw the blanking plug back in. Test the brake by pulling the lever slowly - the pads should move pretty much as soon as you start pulling the lever. If they don't, read over the instructions again as you may have done something incorrectly. Clip all the plastic bits back onto the lever and you're done. As you can see, it's just as easy as the previous brakes (you could argue it's even easier). Hope that helps!

Just added a few topics so if you could lock them to prevent spamming ect? Also these would be a good addition to the how to bleed a hope brake thread - How to bleed - had no idea how to embed this one.

Checked your axle and bearings in your front hub for cracks in the the axle and bearings also check if anything in binding ect. If it's all ok take the shields of and grease them up and smear grease on the axle. Checked the steeper tube and we're the crown race sits for cracks? Do you have disc on the front as a contaminated brake as my brake also will make a creaking noise when applied. lastly has you stem.got any cracks and if you can replace all the bolts - starnut bolt, stem bolts and axle bolts.

Keep it forged aswell as it is lighter and stronger than welded stem

I personally think this is a cool idea and I feel that £10 is a good price not too expensive but not too little. And for the ego thing mentioned above I don't see how that would be a problem, if someone doesn't like you being a subscriber because they think they have more power ect then they can simply pay the modest amount of £10 and for the other way round maybe you could have A seperate warning system like the current where if the user is getting cocky or above thier station ect they will get warning points and if the get say 5 they no longer have the subscription service. Although the negative points will need to be wiped of sometime, maybe once a year?

Thats the one

Carbon toptube? Defiantly possible but I don't really know how you would go about it, maybe ask tarty because I'm sure one of them done it to a pure if I remember right. You could also machine part of the headset's cups also done by tarty and drill holes into he bit that goes onto the frame like the Dartmoor headset and maybe do the same to the Headtube around the top?

what calipers?

You must not have seen last year's ska as I think this year's has improved massively.

I presume you would just drill it out gradually going up in size. Can your hose not Fit past the starnut without modification?