bip

You can also lighten the feel at the lever by backing off the screws that control the tension on the arms. If you don't have much drag in the cable housing it should result in a easier to pull brake. The downside is the arms can move about when throwing the backend of the bike around leading to unusual sounds of momentary pad on rim.

I think what dezmthber means is that with suspension forks, you can often lower them by adding spacers internally between the spring and the legs so that when you screw it all back together the stanchions get pulled down by however many spacers you've added. Quite a few suspension forks already have a spacer in there by default, and it's just a matter of adding more.

Remove the seat

It looks like it should just be your upper jockey wheel being too close to your sprocket. Just need to adjust the tensioner so it's a bit more away from sprocket.

K810 for me, but they seem to not be in production anymore

Hehe, yeah it's an illusion You can set the spring tension as strong as you like if you don't have the chain threaded or its off the front sprocket. What you do is undo the pinch bolt and rotate the bottom arm clockwise towards the 6-9 o'clock position, the closer to 9, the more tension. Redo the bolt and remount the chain. Make sure the chain line stays good whilst you're fiddling though.

The thing about the TT tensioner is, yes, it has no pins - "yay" if you've ever broken a pin! It uses a rubber washer or sorts to hold itself in place when you tighten it down... your mileage may vary as to how well it holds though. The angle should be as close to the chainstay as possible without actually causing the upper jokey wheel to touch the sprocket so you can maximise chain wrap. For minimal hassle you'd probably want the long version if you can't run it right up against the chainstay with the standard, for example. Doing it this way negates any possible issues you may have with the tensioner moving. With regards to chain length, just get it as short as possible whilst still being able to connect it. You can guestimate it by hand first without the tensioner mounted. You shouldn't need to account for extra length just for the tensioner unless you're gear ratio is so awesome you could almost get by without a tensioner. Add an extra link if you're not sure.

If you're using the endoing method, on the rock back your momentum is moving backwards. As you start to reach your balance point generate a little upwards momentum by flexing your calves and moving your body upwards a bit, exaggerate this if you must. If all goes well your rear wheel should leave the ground, most likely causing you and the bike to hop backwards. If you can get one hop, you should be on your way to more. Keep in mind that when using the endo method you might find the cranks not in a great position for hopping, so either correct this whilst still on two wheels or learn to pedal forward a bit on the up hop to level the pedals out.

Well, 15 rear wheel hops is PLENTY and it is definitely tiring hopping that much. Just do a few at a time focusing on form, if you do too many you'll just tire yourself out and end up all over the place. Play around with the front wheel height and let your body adjust itself accordingly and see whats comfy. Also when hopping try not to use your arms, instead try hopping from your hips (up/down) and kind of keep your arms/elbows in. You want to unweight your body and bike just enough so you get a small pop that will let you reposition the rear wheel. I suggest moving on to something else like pedal kicking. You'll be able to practice your rear wheel hops indirectly whilst learning other stuff. With regards to feeling to over the front, I assume this is when on two wheels? If so, this is normal for trials bikes, it's because they are designed to make rear wheel moves easier.

The quick and dirty of it is, - if you tighten a non-drive side spoke (with reference to the hub), you pull the rim a bit to the non-drive side. - if you tighten a drive side spoke (with reference to the hub), you pull the rim a bit to the drive side - if you tighten consecutive spokes (with reference to the spoke holes of the rim), you are effectively pulling the rim towards the hub. The trick is to tighten the right spokes so the wheel is true, round and well tensioned. Try finding an obviously bad spot on the rim and tighten (1/4 turn at a time) the spokes you think will reverse the problem and slowly work your way around. Actually, the best thing to do is to first check your rim for any obviously loose spokes and adjust from there.

Stick with the vees, maybe get a grind and new pads for the rear when you feel the need. Save your money and maybe look into new bars/stem depending on how you get on with the ones in the picture. Also if a basic freewheel is on there at the moment then wait till it dies and get a nice one. Otherwise the bike looks pretty decent.

It shouldn't be that bad even without a booster. First adjust the cable slack/tension so when you do pull the brake with one finger it doesn't go all the way to the bar. If after doing that you find one pad hits the rim first or is touching the rim, use the spring tension screw on the side of the affected arm to add more tension, this will move the arm away from the rim a bit and pull the other side in. Play around with it until you have good lever feel and the arms are hitting the rim at the same time. Another thing to check would be if the rear wheel is dished correctly/centered and obviously the pads are hitting square.

Like said, one way to eventually learn to pedal kick is to learn to pedal into the rear wheel hopping position from 2 wheels. Just add a little pop as you get near the balance point to get the rear off the ground, then apply the brakes before you land. The other way to progress towards pedal kicking is to learn how to level out your cranks as you're hopping on the rear wheel. That is sometimes you're hopping on the rear and your cranks ratchet backwards. To fix this, as you hop up you let go of your rear brake and pedal forward a bit so the cranks level out then reapply the brake before the rear wheel touches down again. Learning to do either of these things should get you used to the mechanics involved and onto pedal kicks pretty quick. Biggest tip to pedal kicking is to let the front drop down first before doing the kick.

The bolts are beefier as well and are socket cap. Bolts now take a 8mm allen key as opposed to the previous 6mm allen bolts, which were buttery.

Neat little set of videos, they have a nice flow and feel to them. You may like to add "Previous" and "Next" links to the video page themselves to make navigation a little easier.