Sam Song

Wow with a paint job so beautiful like that, I would be too scared to ride it! It sucks that Echo may not be around anymore. I had a lot of good memories with echo frames, and currently riding one now too.

I am looking for a 80-100mm sus fork for my Manifesto I am building. There are really few options left for 26 inch straight steerer forks these days. This will be my only bike with a saddle, so I am planning on using it as a general use bike from riding around in the city to doing some light trials riding, and some trail riding with a dropper post. The two I am looking at are: 1) Manitou Markhor 26 Manitou | Markhor | Mountain Bike Fork – Hayes Bicycle - This is closer to entry level fork but seems to have good reviews from the ones I have seen. - But strength is questionable with 30mm stanchions: ~1650g It is cheap enough that I would not mind trying it just to see haha 2) Manitou Circus Expert 26 Manitou | Markhor | Mountain Bike Fork – Hayes Bicycle - This is a DJ fork, so it should be stronger but weighs more than 2.1 kilos. - More expensive, but willing to pay if the cost is worth it. 3) Rockshox Reba Rl 26 - Similar price as a Manitou circus, comes in 9mm QR - Comes in 100mm travel, weighs around 1650g As for the used options, people are charging as much as new for the used 26 inch "premium" forks, so I haven't really seen any of interest.

Great! Yeah thanks for the explanation On the topic of Race Kings, they make it in "Shieldwall" trim that is even heavier than their existing Protection line. At 700 grams, it may have a sturdy enough sidewall for use in the rear. I will give it a try for my build. https://www.continental-tires.com/bicycle/tires/mountainbike-tires/race-king-shieldwall-system

I also want to bump this as I am trying to set up a streety trials bike for the first time. How are people able to run such light rear tires for street trials riding? I get that it is beneficial to have a light rear end to have a more equal weight distribution front and back but don't you also land on sharp edges like you would for pure trials riding? If you want a low rolling resistance rear tire for street riding, wouldn't a balded Kaiser or a Tryall tire give you that while keeping the same puncture resistance? It seems that some people keep the heavy rear tires for building street trials bikes and some are able to use lighter weight rear tires for street trials.

Bit of a long story with this bike. This bike was one of Ryan Leech's original bikes. Then when he retired more than 10 years ago, he sold this bike locally in Vancouver Canada (without the forks since he wanted to keep the custom forks). Over the years it presumably changed multiple hands in the area; probably some not knowing the significance of this bike, the bike had been cheaply spray painted in black including the frame, rear rim, stem, and bar (the person decided to keep the Norco logo for some reason). The bike eventually gets stored in a paid locker abandoned, which was auctioned off by the storage company. It gets bought by a random person who bought the storage items and puts it up for sale on local Facebook marketplace. One of the local riders bought the bike for next to nothing on facebook, had plans on restoring it but decided to let it go, which is how I got my hands on this! The bike originally came with xtr cranks as well but they were destroyed beyond repair which was replaced with aftermarket cranks by the rider who bought it. It comes with many of the original parts including the wheels, rear brake, shifter, and the bar stem combo. The fork is a cheap Marzocchi. I am not sure how I will get this built but I am planning on repainting the frame first. There is a lot to be done but I will get it built properly eventually.

Thanks for the suggestion guys. I will try to save the brake one more time with a rotor clean and new pads, otherwise I may just go to a trusty bb7.

I cannot for the life of me to get the M820 Saint Brake to grab properly upfront. I have it set with a 8 inch Icetech rotor on a Rockman Spade 26 disc fork. Yes, pads have been worn in since I dragged the brake down a hill multiple times. I am using stock pads. Things I have tried: - taking the rotor and pads off for cleaning with Brake cleaner spray and medical alcohol. - bedding in the pads The thing is: it can work pretty well when the disc is sprayed with water but as soon as the disc dries, it is back to not grabbing. I am using stock pads but I have seen people saying great things about Saint Brake even with stock pads. The brake is bought new, only few months old. Any ideas for setting up?

Any words on when the standard dropout Crewekerz 26 carbon forks are going to be back in stocks? They have been out for months with no restocking done in a long time. I find it unfortunate that Crewkerz decided to make their own proprietary through axle with only their hub compatible with it. If for some reason you break the front 9mm theu axle and you can't find a replacement Crewkerz through axle hub, then the entire fork is useless. They should at least make an adapter for a through axle to bolt on hubs like Clean does for their through axle forks.

How thick do you want the sidewall to be? The only real option for a streety tread with a dual ply casing is a Maxxis Hookworm. Pretty heavy at close to 1000gm but you will be able to land on sharp edges with lower pressure. If you are going for the streety tires used on dirt jump bikes, the sidewall is not going to be as strong and you may get tons of pinch flats, especially if you are a beginner.

Any chance Tarty can bring in the Crewkerz 26 carbon disc fork?

Does anyone have any experience with the Echo carbon disk 26 inch forks from back in 2015 with a straight steer tube? I don't believe Tarty carried these so I haven't seen a lot of people running these. I am wondering if i should spend a bit more money to get the tapered carbon disk forks from Crewkerz instead.

Does anyone have any experience with the Echo carbon disk 26 inch forks from back in 2015 with a straight steer tube? I don't believe Tarty carried these so I haven't seen a lot of people running these. I am wondering if i should spend a bit more money to get the tapered carbon disk forks from Crewkerz instead.

If you got the dough, Industry Nine Hydra is the best option on the market right now.

In the mean time, I am experimenting with going down from 18:15 to 18:16 to have a more lighter feeling bike. I will see how it turns out!

So random question regarding the pads, when you swap the pads on an existing rotor, do you need to do anything to the rotor to make it work? Would the rotor still work as well if the news bedded in on a rotor with the material from the old pads?

I am ordering new chains after reading this.

I have been using Trialtech foams for the longest time; and the current ones I have need replacing. I wanted to try something new, and been looking at ESI grips. https://esigrips.com/mtb-grips I have narrowed it down to either Chunky (32mm installed diameter) and Racers Edge (30mm diameter). Has any of you tried these grips? My hands are average sized (medium glove size), and I will be using them with Jitsie gloves.

Those aren't the rebranded Tryall slicks right?

I think it is both. The first time I got on the rear wheel with out the death grip on my front brake hand, I felt less confident. It makes sense that I feel less powerful since the index finger does a large part of the grip strength as well. I only thought it was a bad habit to break first for the aesthetics reason since it is more stylish to see the front wheel rolling when on the rear in riding videos, but also that I presumed not locking the front wheel when unnecessary can "save" the arm to last longer. When you say deathgrip, do you mean the fingers wrapped on the grip without the lever, or the brake locked? So to be clear, you guys do death grip unless you are tapping or needing to do front wheel moves where you consciously have to control the front brake? As in for rear to rear gaps, you would do death grip when you are landing it right?

So I have this bad habit of locking my front brake whenever I go on the back wheel, that I am trying to break. I tried to ride briefly yesterday with me intentionally trying to have the front brake off, and it felt like I somehow have less power on my bike since I have one less finger gripping bar with the front brake index finger off the lever. I noticed it in rear to rear gapping, where I could not get as far with the front brake off. I tried to do the pedal up to rear with the front brake off and it was not nearly as bad, but still feeling like I have less power because of the front brake index finger not gripping. Side hop was not an issue with the front brake off thankfully. Has anyone felt this way when trying to do trials moves with the front brake off when unnecessary? Would you still do the rear to rear gaps with the front brake off? Any tips on relearning how to ride with the front brake let off?

I feel that my bike is finally set up how I want it, and just needs to be ridden now. Echo Mark 5 - Chris King hub in back, V brake rear, Avid BB7 up front. Trialtech SL cranks, Trialtech High Rise bar, Rockman disk fork

Haven't actually tried a Marino myself, so I am not sure how they ride. Are they no good?

You could always make custom trials frame built with disk mount for not too much money as well.

For me, I remember when everyone started using Conti Kaisers as rear tires when they first came out. Now, riders around me have their Jitsie, Monty, etc trials specific tires when I am still riding on Contis.