Sam Song

Also, do not forget about the weight of your helmet. For me, I notice a big difference in comfort between a sub 300 grams helmet, and a helmet that weighs more than 400grams. Your head is the highest place of you and your body, so you want to shave off as much weight as possible there.

Does anyone have a link on Giacomo's original post?

I clicked this thread, expecting a dashcam video. Hahaha Thanks for posting!

My 05 Echo front rim is about to go, and I need to get a new rim for my Zoo Piranha. I use front bb7, so I was thinking about getting an MTB rim for the front to save some weight. Right now, I don't do a lot of front wheel heavy moves, but I am planning on learning them pretty soon. The majority of my riding is done on the city concrete. The front tire I use is a Continental Race King 2.0 Supersonic. The rim I am looking at is a Spank Vomax rim, weighing in at 350grams with 23mm width. Anyone using front mtb rim for a pure trials bike? I know most people have moved on to front rim brakes for their pure trials bikes, but I actually need the front disk for riding in the city (and 8 inch front disk looks amazing! Lol).

No, you don't need to worry about them if you are 12 years old, and just starting out. You start worrying about forks breaking once you actually start doing some front wheel heavy moves.

The freewheel cost is not the problem here. Many people do not have proper sprocket tools, a fixed vice, and a extension bar at home. removing trials front sprocket or front freewheel is a huge pain the arse, not to mention that frequent removal of freewheel and reinstalling can result in stripped threads.

I have had my King for about 4 years now, and it occasionally skips one or two engagements. While I did clean it, I might have to get a King hub tool and do a complete rebuild, instead of just taking the driveshell out (which I already did, and it still skips a bit). It's just ridiculous how expensive the King hub tool is, and I will not risk giving my King hub to a bike shop. Before I buy the King hub tool, I need to decide whether I will stick with a King rear hub for my future trials frames (which will make the cost of king hub tool worth it) or move on to front freewheel. So I want to ask, which one is safer between a King hub and an Echo SL freewheel (possibly the best freewheel on the market right now)? I have seen plenty of King hubs skip and I have seen plenty of broken SL freewheels. If you are going to talk about how freewheel makes the weight more centered, or is cheaper to buy, I am not really interested. When it comes to drivetrain, I want to go for the one that is safer regardless of weight or price. I will not consider a Hope hub since they come with pawls that can break instead of King hub's stronger internals. Share your thoughts here!

I think I found it.

Hello, I have a King Classic rear hub that started skipping a few teeth recently. I was told that I need to take the hub apart and clean the rear hub internals. I found an ancient tutorial video of Tarty Adam taking a king rear hub apart and he was using a 2/32 allen key as well as a specific King hub tool with T grip at the end. Is that tool absolutely essential for cleaning the internals? Also, I was also told by a friend that trials king hubs need to be run dry without any lubes, is there any truth to that? If you were to use a lube, you would use a triflow right?

I am currently running 18/15 with 175mm cranks on my Zoo Piranha 2009. And some of my local riders are telling me that I should switch to 18/16 for its 'lighter' feel. I have tried their 18/16 26 bikes, but with different set-ups on other parts as well, it is hard to be objective about this. Assuming that chainstay length, tension, etc stay equal, which one would you go for on a 26 inch bike? And I'm talking about comp/TGS style 26 inch bikes.

Yeah, if I could do it again, I would have gone for a simple avid lever without the speed dial adjustment. The adjustment is real and it works, but for trials I just never use the adjustment.

I have Speed Dial SL levers front and back on my trials bike, and compared to the avid lever without the speed dial, my SDSL levers have noticeably more vertical play. I also realize that I never use the speed dial and I leave it on the speed dial setting on the least modulation at all times, so I probably could have done without the speed dial adjustment on my trials bike too. Any ideas on how to reduce the vertical play on my speed dial lever? Cheers.

Oh my god, it is gorgeous. And I reached my climax when I saw that pink Chris King in the rear. You can call me old school, but I prefer the look of rear freehub bikes for some reason. Good on you supporting breast cancer research by opting for pink King products!

So why the change to a lower bb? Pretty sure the bb on that is 35. Were your sidehops, gaps, etc sacrificed at all with the new bike? Props to you for going for a unique build!

Okay I fixed the issue. The bolt that was holding the v brake arm in place was not long enough, so there were not enough threads making contact with the bolt. The longer bolt fixed the issue.

Just make sure that the frame you have is narrow enough to fit those boosters. Those old school boosters are nice, but they are too narrow for many pure trials frames these days with a 47mm rim in the rear. If that's the case, you might have to get one custom made. I just bought mine from here that fits on my Zoo Piranha: http://www.ebay.ca/itm/251467651398?ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1423.l2648

Yes, the whole drive side brake arm came off and I had to rescrew it back in.

Hi I can't make it but could you ask them about the warranty on their water bottles? I had an issue with their water bottle two years ago. http://www.trials-forum.co.uk/topic/175436-hope-water-bottle-from-tarty/ Okay, I kid! Anyways, enjoy the trip.

After switching to a v brake rear, I am pretty satisfied with my brake right now (although it made my bike heavier ) It seems that one of my v brake arm pop out everytime there is a heavy torque placed on the brake. Few months ago, the brake arm came off when I was doing a 270 side drop. I did land on the rear while rotating, so I figured it can happen. And just today, the arm gets ripped out again when I was doing a simple pedal up. The thing is, if I tighten it more, then the arms would not move freely, so I am quite positive that my arms were tightened as much as possible without having it stuck. I tend to kick my arms sometimes, so it can be a factor. But how can I make sure that my arm does not rip out again? I'm not sure if this is a common issue, but I think Damon had the same issue in one of his videos. http://m.youtube.com/watch?v=hmKw2ZbPdaU At 28 seconds

Meh, I am kind of leaning towards switching to a Blackberry Q10 for its size. It's kind of sad that that is the only phone left that would fit and does not get in the way when legs are bent. I also have to mention that a lot of times, I go out for an hour ride close to my home and I do not take a bag out at all, so fitting a phone in a pocket is actually quite important to me. Not carrying a bag is actually pretty fun because you can just "ride" when you are just riding around without stopping to put the bag down. AND it does not help that all of my riding is done in the city.

Okay it is a relevant topic, here me out! I always wear jeans when I am riding and I always keep my wallet, keys, and my phone in my pocket when I ride. It has been working out pretty well with my Nokia N8 with its small 3.5 inch screen. Now that the Nokia is 3 years old, it is showing its age I will have to replace it soon. I was given a Samsung Galaxy S3 from a family member to try. And I absolutely hated it when I went riding today. The screen size is way too big so that it gets in the way when I bend my leg. And I really cannot keep my valuables in a seperate bag since homelessness and crimes are getting higher every year in Vancouver, Canada; and I already lost a bag before (thankfully with only a water bottle and 2 apples inside ) so I will not risk putting any expensive items in a bag when I go out riding to downtown. How do people deal with large screen phones these days?? Can you actually ride with phones that have 4.5+ inch screens?? I am pretty sure I will not find another phone with a 3.5 inch screen. I think I might just have to get a Blackberry which is the smallest phone available on the market right now.

So my 2 yr old Echo SL fork finally broke at the steertube. I am looking for a replacement fork for cheap, and a local rider is selling a new 2013 Echo Urban disc/HS33 fork for cheap. I will never actually use the HS33 mount on the fork, but I heard that HS33/disc mount forks are weaker even if I do not use the hs33 mount? Are they significantly weaker than disc only forks? The price on the Hs33/disc mount fork is good, but I am willing to pay more for a disc only fork if there is a significant strength difference.

Unfortunately, Salsa and Shimano boosters will not clear a Continental Der Kaiser on a 47mm rear rim, and I would hate the grind those boosters since they cost so much. How would this booster work? Any experiences with them? http://www.chainreactioncycles.com/ca/en/brand-x-thermoplastic-v-brake-booster/rp-prod8215

Yes, it does. Of course, fresh grind makes things better but not enough for rolling moves.

Trialtech Race Undrilled rim. Now that you mention, I did get a new rim when I switched to v brake, but I just can't see how that could have any effect?