Sam Song

I made a switch to rear v brake a few months ago from HS33 rear. I love the v brake's lack of maintenance and the fact that I do not have to worry about the lever when I bail, but I just cannot seem to do rolling moves such as pedal gaps and the full stroke pedal kick right before a sidehop. The v brake simply slips out, forcing me to jump off the pedals. However, I have no issues doing rear wheel sidehops and static gaps. Do I just accept this as a part of v brake characteristics? But I still like doing rolling moves! I do have a booster on there, although I had to grind it a bit to fit the tire, but do you think a new stiffer booster would help? The current carbon booster I have is quite flexy I have to say, but I am just not sure how much difference a different booster would make. My current v brake set up. - Shimano Deore M590 V brake arms - TNN LGV pads - Odyssey Race Linear Slic cables - Avid SD7 lever - $5 carbon booster. I have also attached pictures. I spent an entire morning trying to do the rolling pedal gap to sidehop move that I could do without any issues with my previous HS33

I was just frustrated with my riding. And I always thought of Inspired bikes as bikes for people who want to do trials and street, but can only afford or have space for one bike? So I thought the ideal would be to have specialized bike for each discipline of riding. I'm not sure if I would replace my both trials and street bike with an Inspired though. I still want to have a pure trials bike for max sidehops and gaps, while having another bike for pure street riding. My question is: By having seperate bikes for each discipline, am I progressing less because I am constantly switching bikes, rather than riding one bike only for the same amount of time?

I've been riding pure trials (mostly TGS kind of riding) for about 4 and a half years now on my 09 Zoo Piranha. Then, I got into pure street on my NS Suburban a year ago. I enjoy riding both bikes, although I am leaning more towards street now. The problem is that I feel that trials and street riding I do are counter productive and are cancelling each other out. For example, I spin toward my good foot side on my trials bike, while I do my 180s to my back foot side on my street bike. As a result, it can get super confusing when I switch bikes. I've improved quite a bit on street riding recently, but now I cannot sidehop very high and I am no where as good in trials as I used to be. Anyways, just a bit of rant really. I want to do both disciplines, but it seems that doing one will hurt the other.

http://www.trials-forum.co.uk/topic/148109-rockman-slate-2/ Stan Shaw seems to pull it off.

Even worse than rear disc and front HS33?

I was just wondering why I do not see this often on bikes since I just switched the rear hs33 to a v brake but kept the hope front disc brake. And I just do not seem to see this combination that common on other people's bikes. Any reasons?

The only stems I have heard of breaking are the Monty stems. Otherwise, I rarely see stems breaking.

My v brake is set up, so that only one arm is moving and one of the pads is too close to the rim. I am currently maxed out on the spring adjustment screws (the arm of the pad that is too close to the rim is at the tightest spring setting). If I try to undo the spring tension screw on the other arm to move the pad out on the opposite side, then there is no tension on the cable at all, which leads me to believe that, the arm of the pad that is too close to the rim, might be sticky. Anyways, it is so f**king frustrating right now and I feel like jumping off a bridge. Set up: Shimano Deore M590 arms, Odyssey Race Linear Cable, Avid SD7 lever.

http://www.chainreactioncycles.com/Models.aspx?ModelID=39004 or Shimano Deore M590?

If you had to choose between Shimano XT arms: http://www.ebay.ca/itm/Mr-Ride-Shimano-Deore-XT-BR-T780-M780-V-brake-set-Front-Rear-Black-/330924201195?pt=US_Brakes&hash=item4d0c9e94eb and Avid SD7 arms, which one would you go for and why? It seems peeps at observedtrials.net recommend Avids while this forum recommends Shimano arms.

Are Avid Ultimate Arms worth the cost? I could get Avid SD7 Arms or a Shimano DXR V Brake arms http://www.chainreactioncycles.com/Models.aspx?ModelID=38379 But Ultimate arms are the only ones with a sealed bearing, and I am willing to pay more if it is worth it.

I bailed on the lever a few weeks ago and the lever reach adjust allen key hole is completely filled with wood now. And of course, the wood has completely blocked the allen key shape as well as the hole completely. I tried compressed air, but it's so tightly packed that it won't come out. The hole itself is really small, so toothpicks didn't really work either. Such a stupid problem.... the brake is still rideable, but I need to put the lever in the furthest position when I bleed.

Conclusion: Pick up a used 2010 HS33 for $50 and trim the lever body.

I am sure I used the spokes on the correct sides because the "dishing to the non drive side" problem has been with all of my wheels before. Keep in mind that my King Classic Hub has casette space for 9 cogs on the drive side, unlike most other trials rear hubs with just one space for a cog and wide flanges. So even if the wheel is built correctly to the center of the King hub shell, there is still space for 9 cogs to the drive side outside the hub shell. I would say that it actually makes sense for me to build the wheel slightly dished to the drive side in future to compensate for that long driveshell on the king classic rear hub. For the spokes, like I said, I just let Tarty know my hub/rim combo and let them do the cutting and calculations. I assume they know their shit.

Always had Tarty just do my spokes for me, To reiterate, yup the drive side spokes are about as tight as they get right now, with the non drive side spokes way too loose.

I find that when I get my rear wheel built (King classic + 44 to 47mm rim) for my Zoo Piranha 2009, the rear wheel is dished toward the non drive side. Not severely so it still clears, but enough for me to notice. And as I ride the wheel, it gets dished to the non drive side and I can't tighten the non drive side spokes anymore because there is no room available on the non drive side of the rear wheel. And I always follow the exact numbers that the spoke length calculator gives me. For my future wheels, is it okay for me to get slightly shorter drive side spokes and longer non drive side spokes, than the recommended spoke lengths to move the rear wheel toward the drive side more to center it? If so, by how much?

It's been a couple years since they were released, I'm looking for some long term reviews from owners who have had 2011 Maguras for a while. I just keep getting mixed reviews about these on forums and other riders. I'll be running mineral oil with the 2011 Maguras, so I just want to make sure that they don't leak or are excessively flexy. Please comment if you only have experiences with 2011 Maguras, I already know older models were better. And if you are going to tell me to get v brakes, I need to buy separate adaptor, booster, and pads, so it ends costing twice as much as a new 2011 Magura, so f**k that and f**k you.

Okay which Shimano arms do you recommend? LX version? XT? Alivio?

Well, my Magura finally died yesterday. In my four years of riding, I don't think I was ever completely satisfied with Magura rim brakes to be honest. I always had to bleed, move the calipers in, it was just such a pain in the ass. So I decided to try the V Brake in the rear. It is to be used on a 2009 Zoo Piranha Long, and I'm just deciding on which parts to get. Lever: Avid Speed Dial SL Cable: Odyssey Linear Slic Race cable (loved this cable with bb7) Arms: Avid SD7? Adaptor: Heatsink? Onza? Not too sure what to get Booster: http://www.tartybikes.co.uk/images/custom/brakes/large_brandxbooster.jpg The only v booster on Tarty. Since I don't have any experience with V Brakes, I just have a few concerns: - How easy is it to set the v pads square to the rim? It's not like Maguras with Echo TR clamps which do that for you. - Do V arms matter at all? I can get used a used Shimano Deore V locally: http://www.pinkbike.com/photo/8517553/ or an SD7 arm from Ebay. - How much weight gain usually by going v brake? - V brakes have less bite and how much less is it? I've always used the mineral oil in Magura HS33s, so it's not like I'm coming from the superlight water bleed maguras. - I hated bleeding my Magura every 2-3 months, is there any maintenance work involved with V brakes? I know it's a lot of questions, but I have no experience with the v brakes whatsoever. Although I do love my bb7 brakes. I do see Mr. Stan Shaw using SD7 arms! http://www.trials-forum.co.uk/topic/148109-rockman-slate-2/

http://vimeo.com/4406116

Too bad he can't post the video himself.

Yup I have an 05 lever. If anyone were going to suggest grinding the lever blade a bit to increase the reach, I already did that. Well I just bled the brake and it feels nice, but I just don't get why the pads gradually close in on the rim even without any signs of leakage. Having said that, bleeding once,twice a year isn't too much I guess, but the whole point of going mineral oil was to not having to f**k with the brake.