FamilyBiker

new batch!!! 2 sets of the old batch left,if someone needs some for smooth rims(soft and medium)

no,because its an open system you would pump the lever and refill the reservoir repatedly until your pads hit the rim,from there they would travel back just a mm when you release the lever.through the transmission the system and lever have the feedback on the lever blade would be what i described

short answer: no. long one: disc and rim brakes have totally different hydraulic systems,disc is high pressure,low volume movement,rim brake the other way round.disc is semi-open,rimbrake closed circuit. you'd end up with having virtually no lever travel and pad clearance,squishy pressure point. i have a 2011 magura lever laying around you could use,not the best levers ever built but they work

sorry to jump on the train here but me thinks it doesnt deserve its own topic. i have a kabra 24" singlewall rim laying around that most likely will not be used in the street build i'm about to finish. maybe i'd use it on the trials bike any opinions on that one?

theres a few in benitachell and xabia i know of,but thats 100+km away.maybe check the spanish todotrial.com forum http://todotrial.mforos.com/1815069-bicitrial-biketrial-trialsin-general/ if i wouldnt be there mid august i would be going on a ride

nothing special here,onkyo tx-ds 575 and canton ergo 90 dc towers,combined with a canton as50 active sub. only special about that setup is a flash chip mod of the dsp unit which lets it go out with down to 16hz

if you imagine the straight sidewall knocking on the edge of an obstacle,you will find the force going through it from top to bottom. the angled one will have an angle to the edge too and more being pressed outwards and flexes instead of being hit straight and absorbing all the force directly the angled one will dent too eventually,but after more force applied,because of that flexing

totally understand this. but in my opinion you wont get a quality like it was there years ago,everything just seems to be produced in a rush,with poor qc. i could even imagine its the same as with china clones,some frames come from one supplier,some from another and so on. mate of me rides a frame from 2003,t'was designed as a comp frame back in the days,he is 100kg and bashing street on it,held up fine since now. just dont expect quality stuff for our genre anymore,seen too much sh*t,offset pedal threads,even offset stem tubes,frames that held up a month from purchase etc

sorry to say and deffo dont want to alert you mate,but every single frame i've seen in years over years as a bike mechanic if making that noise had some kind of crack. maybe some weld not being fully closed and joint faces rubbing each other but definitely a warranty case imo

maybe its bending like a bow when preloading and they put a cross at the place where they bury you after snapping it on a big drop

dont you know those spinal dics?theyre the reason the pain is so much when you hurt your back

something like "dodging them away" maybe?

jack and dan pretty much said what i meant,didnt think about dynamic stretching though,but thats kinda what you do when just moving to warm up edit:dammit,did igot caught by that profile pic running gag thats apparently going on here? haha

please do NOT stretch your muscles and tendons BEFORE riding.just move a bit on the bike or without bike until you got your muscles on working temperature(jut before sweating starts) and youĺl be fine.if you want to stretch do it AFTER a session.

nr 1 would be the sligthly streetier one and nr 2 slightly rear wheel friendlier. if set up in the way the geos are pointing.but marginal differences overall.you could setup both bikes to ride nearly the same.

i wouldnt say its exactly like a bunnyhop machine in that setup,but hey! i've seen people doing 360s on pure comp bikes,why not? joking aside,your frame is pretty oldskool geo'ed,so it should be at least way easier than on a recent comp frame

depends on if your wheelbase is based on short reach and long chainstays or the other way round.or even something in between.you cant see frame measurements as isolated factors,it all plays together. next thing would be setup,a long wheelbase bike with short cs and a streety stem would bunnyhop better than ta streety bike with a trialsy stem imo

a bike with shorter stays pops up better onto the rear wheel,but feels less stable when its there. and vice versa basically. the other thing is the correlation between cs,reach and bb rise,if you change one thing the other will react differently too,despite their own measurements.

by sick alls lol

i think you cant really compare a 24 to a 26,everyone has its own (dis)advantages. if you would insist in comparing the bb rise on its own between the bikes you´d end up with having the same effects for the same rise,at the end of the day its just the position in relation to the wheel axles. there are many factors that play a role in how a bike feels,its all a relation between them.

i mean yeah,lets take the only purpose it has off of a helmet,why not? edit: just thought about the topic title again and realised i am making my own brake pads haha

no offence,but are you actually thinking modifying a helmet is a good idea? for me my helmet is basically there to compensate for other bad ideas i have during a ride

isnt everything from trialtech the "b stock" of other companies ?

kolophonium for contrabass´s