FamilyBiker

fair point,could be i am too much of a technician guy sometimes to let go in such things. (A) in that case its just that one brake would´ve been beating the other due to having other compound pads,for example my br-m596 is available with both pad types here,and avids come with metal pads sometimes,depending on model. now the avid won,but if the shimano had metal pads too,it would be the winner. that makes the comparison itself meaningless imo.in practical terms,because you would have to buy the pads the test was made with to achieve the values the test brought to light and to add this,every factor you change on your bike in comparison to the test setup can turn it all around,

^^thanks,now its understandable doesnt tell what stock pads are though,i couldve been ordering my brake with resin or metal pads,wouldve been a difference of 0.12 in friction coefficient and had changed the results drastically for both max. deceleration and the heat resistance,but oh well

heres another of those from the page the above pic came from opinions? how can the torque load of a brake be determined from the brake itself,you can only determine the brakes deceleration forces through having a known torque load and a friction coefficient and and and. its just not that simple to compare systems to eachother edit: thats a test diagram,if you got one of those for every single brake you want to compare,you can compare them. everything else is out of context like that lists,or subjective,riders feel. btw that one is for rain,you can see the lines dropping where the tyre slipped ,funny

that says nothing about the test circumstances,e.g. disc or wheel diameter and pad type.total nonsense as every of those brakes has minimum 2 diameters and pad types available as standard. deceleration is in fact the loss of speed which would result from all factors working together. is there any info on the test factors like disc dia where you get that from? would be interesting i´d assume it to be 160 mm rotor with resin type(organic pads) seeing those values though.but some of the brakes have values that cant be reached with a 160,unless its a 22" wheel

write an email to the tech support of every manufacturer youre interested in,most of them will send you test diagrams without any problems i have the friction curve diagramm of a 2012 xt brake laying around somewhere,if thats of any help for you. problem is i got it per fax and i have no scanner you can only compare lab results btw,in real life even the air humidity has an influence on the modulation of a brake. (to exaggerate the changes through discs,pads,spoke tension...,know what i mean?) edit: 2 other important things(probably more than air humidity ) -make sure you get diagrams resulting from tests made at DIN 14768/VCBRAKE2 DIN-EN,to have comparable results -a brake with high hydraulic transmission and less mechanic transmission has better modulation,and vice versa(assuming the same maximum braking force the brake system can give before the tyre friction is overcome)

please make a poll how your next frame will die! i vote for blowing it up on new years eve during the usual fireworks,and film it or get some rust ground off old steel scrap mixed with aluminium powder,gives a good thermite melt

an inch is a bit much. did you ever notice the fact the chainwheel/sprocket wear unevenly over time? adjust your chain tension so the chain is tensioned right at one of those tight spots,leaving it so it can just move up and down a few mm up to a cm. ive seen cracked bearing races due to tightening the chain full on

knock the lockring open to unscrew it,then clamp down the pawl carrier in a vice and screw that off

first! funny my cs turns out at 358 with 22:17 only with the tensioner i have,so the dropout angle should be blamed,or other factors and my chain isnt stretched yet

9 out of 10 voices in my head say i´m not crazy :bow: i know you meant clerider,just didnt want to sound insulting but wanted to throw that joke out lol

1 tooth is 6.something mm? 1/2" chains tend to change the chainstay length by 1/2" (point something too) per tooth most likely edit:seeing yo0u edited the tensioner idea into the post i meant to reply to its pretty pointless now,touché.

erm...12 and 17...is there any sprung tensioner that has such a wide capacity without getting slack on the 12t? just wondering,sometimes a second cog wouldnt be too bad... i mean that´d be exactly the 2 cogs i´d go for,but a rear mech isnt going on my rig,no way.

i even tend to use my seat as one,not while pedalling obviously(would hit my ears with my knees doing that haha),but when cruising around town its like accelerate-sit down´n roll-repeat. and it looks more like a bicycle,i agree.

no,i just mentioned this in the context of the previous discussion,not to put salt in the wounds i really think its not far from being a bmx bike. i mean,the headangle is around the same,cs are like 12mm longer,but with a 90x25 stem(edit:more likely a 120x35 or similar looking at the tt length), highrisers and brake mounts for real brakes the wtp would be a nice street trials bike(transmission and stuff would be up for changing though) but what i really wanted to point out was that street trials bikes more and more turn into bmx´s nowadays imo

if the arcade had a block stem and some 7" cruiser bars on some couldnt tell the difference to a 24"bmx. (600,.€) but for the style of riding its made for thats a good thing,i like it. to be honest i posted this because i HATE it when people ask me if my bike´s a bmx.

you have your own numbers en espana?jajaja

just seen the brown door alsolooks better than the white one

ride trials on an apollo and your warranty´s void. well said ben,btw

this!

one day people will watch people that are watching my video and say its great probably not haha

definitely the silver one,thats awesome

this seems like one of the jokes that only work if youre native britishmen

debating is just one guy from russia,discussing is what the lot does. :wink2:

i may be wrong,but we wont find out until dave from inspired makes a statement regarding that.i´m just making a statement based on experiences i made,certain bikes in certain genres have overall weights pointing at wether the frames are treated or not.you will not find a dh bike with roadbike-like rims in terms of weight,and dh frames have a purpose-serving weight range which is differing just a few 100g,if. as i said,i may be wrong,we´ll see. i had one or the other of my "figures" turning out as the truth later,cant help myself trying it over and over again hahaha

was i meant with that? heat treatment is done to make a light-built frame free from welding tensions to assure the same durability as a thicker walled frame.("normal"frames dont necessary need it due to the wall thickness,which gives a known fatigue life) thats for hardening/tempering,which is the common process add up the components weight to 12kg,2.3-2.4kg left for the frame(give or take) in that weight range it doesnt have to be heat treated edit:okay if the forks wieght around 1.5kg it could be,but i dont think so