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That is your problem, you don't pull up to bunny hop (at all, at all), Ill describe it in a few different ways. - you have to squat down low and move your weight backwards horizontally, then once you are past the pivot point stand up. - compress, lean back and push your feet forwards and pull hands back, the stand up and push hands down. - The movement is a bit like using one of those rowing machines they have at gyms. - In terms of bike movement the bars need to go toward the pedals and the pedals toward the bars. -The pull up motion is generated by leg and hip movement and your arms are just used for control. So don't use your arms to pull. if you do this properly you'll do the first part of the bunny hop (and be more of a stood up position). ! At this point you are going to loop out because you'll land back wheel so you have to do the second part real quick. The next part is to bend your legs (squat/compress) and throw arms forward. (Its kind of the reverse motion of the first part). Also, imo if you ride a street zoot, don't worry too much about rear wheel hops and don't expect to be pogoing about. Work on wheelies and bunny hops.

I got a pair of these a couple of weeks ago, totally agree theyre amazing!

It's probably different for everyone, but i tried quitting lots of times, and I properly quit about 7 years ago. I tried a lot of nicotine replacements and in the end just stopping cold turkey was most effective. The thing is all you really need is a reason or strong desire to quit, just get through the first three days and its easy. Nicotine is very addictive, but it is noting in comparison to actual will power. Whether you want to be fitter, or live longer, feel better, save money, be more attractive to the ladies, what ever it is for you.. once you actually commit all you have to do is just stop.

Also the ticking sound, is there any play in the headset ? It could also be spoke unwind ? I would start a separate thread to get some more help from others.

you can ride bars back if you like, but you can also ride bars forward and it is much easier on the rear wheel, so most people ride with their bars very far forward. The thing is lots of people don't realise how different these are to normal bikes. Basically don't put any weight on your hands at all, when you ride put 90% on your weight on your legs. You can ride weight forward but there is a limit to what your hands will take. Look at the body position at 0.03 in this video, practice that position on two wheels and just on the rear wheel, and get comfortable in it because it makes up like 50% of the moves, notice that he is doing a trackstand, and this is a better type of trackstand for pure trials in my opinion because your weight is ready to produce power. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=VoblV_lN0Lc

If you can use a computer just use this on google chrome https://chrome.google.com/webstore/detail/youtube-playback-speed-co/hdannnflhlmdablckfkjpleikpphncik while watching this https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7bkk1ibiPRw or video editing gear can probably do it pretty easily.

Welcome to the forum! Skate parks with street sections would be okay, something like a grind box would be ideal, but transition will be sketchy to ride on a trials bike. Did you ride any trials before ? Check out these tutorials, they should get you some ideas: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gdHBldOr3pE http://www.trashzen.com/sitemap.php

Its probably easiest to just pump extra air in the tyres and let it out as you ride, it can change the feel quite a bit. You will probably feel most difference when you learn rear wheel hops, the amount of air affects how easy it is too bounce and how stable the rear wheel is. If you are learning rolling moves more air will be less tiring to practice with and will reduce your risk of pinch flats, so bear that in mind if you are learning gaps or pedal ups. Harder tyres are easier to pivot on too, and the pressure of the front tyre can affect your track stands quite a bit. I found that tyre pressure and bar angle are good things to experiment with and continue to experiment with as you progress.

This video is good at explaining stuff: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gdHBldOr3pE

does this stuff work okay on powder coat ? they've got 1L tubs on ebay now !!!

You could look at getting a 50mm or even 40mm mtb stem like they use on dirt jump/street bikes, you could probably pick one up cheap on ebay to try. The steering would still feel okay with 50mm and it would be easier to spin. But I reckon you can shorten the setup a decent amount doing that, and then maybe try running the bars a touch higher. And just to state the obvious some of the 50mm stems only take smaller bmx diameter bars, so double check.

I think people are probably going to ask for a picture of your setup, to see bar angle stem etc.. Also I think high bars make pulling up much easier, high and short is pretty common for street riders. High bbs make looping out easier too. I would say lower back pain is almost always due to not using glutes and legs enough or not tensing abs enough and not really to do with geo, as plenty of people ride really really long bikes. You need to squat your bike up not lean it up. But that is just my opinion, and the right geo certainly does help ease pains.

Just noticed this, would be great to have it back to normal.

the zoot pros are good there is one for sale in one of the uk facebook groups

The bit going up the zig zag stairs was mental. And great sock choice too!

Yeah just to add: pads for a smooth rim will wear out too fast on a grind and I don't think they will work properly, so you would want some suitable pads. Riding a smooth rim in winter weather especially with 100kgs won't be any fun.

good choice, 26's are well nice! Here's a video on rim grinding that may be helpful: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vw2DgIi2fBw Also you may want to get some normal MTB platform pedals, as trials pedals are to everyones taste.

Also if you do get the echo, its worth grinding the rear rim as the weather is going to get worse it will make the rear brake much more effective. You can do it your self or tarty can do it. You will want to a get rear brake pads suitable for a grind and wet weather. TNN ADM's are a decent brake pad for wintery weather in most of UK or ask tarty they can help.

People have different opinions, but if you want to learn pure moves get a pure bike like the echo. Street bikes are for street moves. But I'm sure you know that. I think the street trials bikes are harder to learn on and that BMX and pure trials bikes are way easier to learn the respective styles on, street trials bikes are a compromise between the two. But plenty of people start on street bikes and find them okay. Either way you sound like you want to ride pure trials moves so just get the echo. If you can afford a fully setup new bike, its the least hassle and time wasting to get riding, because you don't have to worry about fixing anything or setting it up. But there's usually pretty decent bikes for sale on here too.

below is a pic where the bolt comes out, so you need to go under the frame to access the bolt head. bottom:

If they are the same as previous years, it has integrated chain tensioners, there is a small hole underneath each drop out. It is at a weird angle, inside the hole is a small allen headed grub screw, just pop a small key in there and turn it and it will adjust.

Magura made lots of different versions, the one you have looks like a 2011 hs11, so it has a plastic lever and the 2011 hs33 has more metal on it so slightly stiffer. I don't think there is any difference between the slaves for all years. I found the 2011's to be a bit spongey. hs33 2005 brakes are pretty good and you can usually get them 2nd had complete under £30, and it is easy to find different lengths levers if you want. http://www.trialsaddict.com/uploads/products/hires/Magura-05-Lever-RH-Black-WM.jpg The 2013's are also pretty good, but less options for lever length/style. http://funtown.cz/6054-1985043-thickbox/brake-lever-magura-hs33-2013-trial-4-finger.jpg Racing Line (the brand, not magura racinglines) rear brakes are good especially if you want split clamps and also trialtech have just brought out some rear brake lever bodies too that people seem to be excited about. BB7's are still a good brake. As for freewheels, there are technical things like, front FW wears chains faster and lets in a lot more dirt etc.. But front FW you can get loads more engagements for a more instant feel and a little less weight. But to be honest I don't know why people choose either, you just seem to prefer one or the other or not care.

Welcome back! Heatsink pads are still good dude, and TNN's and Trialtech pads are pretty popular. Plus theres a brand called TK that is made by the same guy as the old Koxx pads. And yeah grinds are still in. Also that 'e' symbol is actually an 'm' for magura. Has confused me loads of times too. Echo Front freewheel is pretty popular and Hope or Chris King rear freewheel, possibly hope's are more popular. Also maybe worth trying moving your bars back or forward to see how different positions feel before deciding on a stem change?

Looking sweet, also I found that you can paint rims really nice if you use enamel spray paint, the normal spray for cars and stuff chips badly and looks terrible but the enamel is really thick, glossy and nice. It is a bit harder to spray though because it's prone to runs and drips more so just go easy.

Nice one on returning dude! Also remember you can denodize stuff tobsilver with some drain un blocker if you want to get rid of the red.