robkerly

chain lube may or may not work long term as some types are designed to go sticky to stay on a chain. pesonally would avoid just in case. silicone spray lube or silicone grease is safe on the rubber piston seal and wont turn to glue. fork seal grease is fine if you have some, but its expensive so dont buy it specially for your levers. best of luck. honk

i mucked about with this idea on my old zebdi. ended up with a 2x front set up, with a half bash ring and a fairly chinesium tensioner. chain slap is obviously more than on a singlespeed tenioner setup as it needs more chain. a better tensioner would probably help a lot. i also fabricobbled a front chain device, mostly because a dcd wont fit the square chainstays. hope the pictures help if anybody wants to try it.

If you have any stackers under your stem, worst case is if you find the rise too much, you can drop it down a bit.

I'd vote for the because. Got vague memories of the brake mount on the DOB being under the seatstay and being a ballache to set up. Until now i had repressed them!

yep the kool chain kmc 710 is pretty much as good as it gets in my opinion. the 610 claims to be the same strength, but without having one side built up for bmxers to grind on. just make sure you get one with the strong split link (3 pieces)

its an anodized coating. wont come off without a lot of sanding

still think of the 2005 on magura levers as 'the new shape' never liked em

HI Vanis. If you have 3/32 sprockets then a 3/32 chain will definitely be a better fit. I'd recommend a kmc 610 or 710 in the 3/32 width as they are pretty cheap and damn strong, far stronger than an average 8 speed chain. I happily run a split link, but only the type that has a second side plate and spring clip as i feel the quick springy snappy ones are far less tough.

nice job. looks ripe for some goofing. im fairly local to bristol. in summer i ride there most weeks so give me a shout if you want somebody to ride with / show you around

i agree with james, i've set bikes up to what im used to before, and ruined them just because it initially felt comfortable and 'normal'. I reckon now to try and treat each bike as a tool for its specific purpose, so my old xc bike is super long 90s geo. street bike is fairly short and really high, stock is as low and as long as i can get the front end and the new enduro bike is mid to long reach with a titchy stem. switching bikes only feels odd for a few seconds, and then just feels like home.

Awesome Andrew. Been watching your videos for years for inspiration. You make massive lines look effortless

No worries, its always nice to help out new people to the scene. i'm meeting some mates tomorrow evening in Bedminster, depending on whereabout in Brisol you are i could swing by before that, around 6. After that im away for a couple of weeks.

Hi Sammy. I happen to have a lonely drive side onza zoot crank arm. I'm in Bristol fairly frequently working or riding. Happy to jam it on for you one day when I'm around.

bikes flex a lot once you start looking at them! its when it doesnt flex back again thats the problem. worth having a look at the back side of the fork crown / bottom of the steerer tube to see if you have any stretch marks or cracks anyway as its just good practice.

Hey. welcome to trials. Good purchase. Bar and stem should make that feel pretty good for learning on. A couple of basics first might be to check that it has a good chain on it, and make sure its adjusted properly to stop it sagging like that. That will slow down the engagement when you push on the pedals. Half-link chains tend to stretch fairly quickly so a regular bmx chain is fine, or the kmc 610 and 710 are pretty damn good and reasonably priced. Some soft sticky v pads will help you out a lot too. The standard freewheel may not have many engagements, and arent really strong, so that could be a worthy upgrade down the line. lastly, check the cranks bolts before every ride. those older type square taper cranks can round off easily if they come a bit loose. thats it. have fun!