mjewl

depends on what you mean with "get thrashed through the woods", but some kind of full susp enduro/xc bike with a lockout fork/rear would probably be versatile enough.. example: http://www.chainreactioncycles.com/se/en/fuji-reveal-3-0-am-suspension-bike-2012/rp-prod93932

so nice with lock on and 150mm width, crazy quality for the prize , got a pair on my skye. http://superstar.tibolts.co.uk/product_info.php?cPath=60&products_id=524 also, their magnesium flat pedals are amazing! stiff and just 330g / £64 (even lighter with Ti-axle)

heh, this is the first that came to my mind: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=NeZH7es3bUM thrashing everyone riding, trying to hand out autographs to people that doesn't want them. lol at *bad information", about your name not being recognized/praised for stuff you did 4 years ago?

mkay, so it's simply a personal preference problem?

heh, still can't wrap my head around it, could you bother to take a pic?

hi, Tomas from Gällivare, way up north in Sweden. works as a welder/mechanic on huge ass machines, built to crush, dig or haul ore in one of the mines around here. did some "trialsy" riding when i was about 15-16 on a ddg shooter, smashed my kneecap trying to gap in strong wind so i've been off for about 10-11 years, until last year when i drunkenly bought a downhill bike... found out downhill bikes aren't much fun without lift's so i bought another bike, and another, and so on... Current bikes consist of a Inspired Skye, Fourplay, Specialized demo 8 and a demo 7, Scott FR30 and a Black market riot got a really wonderful fiance who puts up with all my hobbies.. computers/electronics/knifes/guitars/photograhy/snowboarding/downhill etc http://www.flickr.com/photos/wr0m/ - flickr photostream with practically everything i upload, should give a hint of what i like and do :> cuz i'm a greasemonkey yes i am! P&H4100 at work

Camera NIKON D3 Focal Length 28mm Aperture f/4.5 Exposure 1/40s ISO 6400 Gibson Les Paul Buckethead Signature -2010 Taylor 516CE -2008 Blackstar HT1R

heh, i litterally don't see how 1mm could be crucial for it to work. as i recon they're only there for one thing, tightening the headset so the bearings works as intended, shouldn't even use much torque when setting it up. your steerer and headset spacers aren't supposed to be level, the spacers/stem should always be a little higher than the steerer to make sure they put torque on the bearings, and not just locks to the steerer tube? http://www.pinkbike.com/news/Tech-Tuesday-Steerer-tube-length-2012.html would be if the star nut was in too deep/threaded steerer just too short, but then i wouldn't trust just 1mm anyway

just curious, how come you need exactly 4mm? (can't get my head around what would make 1mm crucial?)

she rides with me, and puts up with my hobbys i need a house with a garage..

i like my Cratoni C-flash, enough vents, light and adjustible

bah, aka "stock"

a little change... Odyssey seat, superstars Ultra mag pedals and size zero grips.

"This freewheel must be bedded in before trials use, to ensure any grease used when assembling the freewheel works away from the mechanism. If the freewheel is subjected to trials use without having been bedded in, the pawls will not engage correctly and this causes the freewheel to skip, damaging the pawls and ratchet. If you wish to speed up this process, you can thin the grease down with light oil like GT85 or WD40, by spraying it between the centre and outer teeth of the freewheel and rotating it. Failure to bed the freewheel in correctly will void the warranty." i read that as "this product will most likely fail within a unreasonable short period of time, and it will be your fault."