niconj

Took about 100 tries to get this one but I got the hang of it now.

How did it go?

But there are better options now.

Just a quick update. I've been practicing manuals a lot recently and have been reading about the technique a lot. The perfect manual is without touching the brake but for beginners like myself people always speak about "feathering" the brake. This was pretty much impossible with the MT5, Trialtech pads and an SM-RT76 180mm rotor as it was too powerful. "Feathering" wasn't possible. As I wasn't really happy about the pad knock of about 1mm on each! side of the Trialtech pads (the small hock on top of the pads was bent ) I changed back to the stock Magura pads. I also had some SLX 203mm rotors lying in my shed. So I changed the setup and even with a 203mm rotor "feathering" the brake is now possible. The brake is way more progressive now than it was with the Trialtech pads. The hold is still there so I cannot fault the brake but modulation is way better.

I don't know as I have spun the wheel in both hands and it just felt rough. It is still turning but far from smooth. I have some cheapo Fulcrum Racing 7CX wheels that are smoother after having ridden them for three winters in all kind of conditions. The entire wheelset cost me less than the Hope hub.

Trashzen.com

So I got the Hope Pro 4 Trials hub 8 weeks ago and have been riding a lot lately (in all kind of weather) and as I had to take of the rear wheel today, I checked the bearings and was kinda disappointed. They don't run smooth anymore. They feel like they've been ridden for years. This is a disappointment as I had the same issues with the older pro 2 model some years ago and thought the newer version had better bearings.

It's redundant as the entire video shows the same over and over without really getting any higher or further. You are right, I'm about "inch pinching" but it doesn't really show in this video or at least there's no process shown. Dunno how else to put it. edit: I'm aware of the fact that my videos have been redundant as well. That's why I've been trying to vary the things shown in my videos (which is kinda hard as I don't know that much. :D)

Cool but a bit redundant.

Can you remove the bolts without any problem? Just had a look. I even used 243.

It's the second time that happens to me. Hope Pro 4 SSP hub and Magura Storm/Shimano SM-RT76 180mm rotors. I took new bolts for both rotors and Loctite 241. Tightened them up with 6Nm and they still came loose. Only on the rear though. Any suggestions?

Thanks. Well, it's not that I've started from scratch. I ride trials since 2013, it's the first street trial I own though.

Only if you buy the penis enlargement.

I'd rather get a roof rack than taking off the rear wheel every time I go out riding. Especially with HS33 where the wheel will never be in the same place.

Cranks and stem don't fit. Red Magura clamps don't fit either.

Learned this new technique today. Seems pretty easy when on the ground. I will have to try this on rails soon although I know it'll take about 1000 tries to get one landed. I also tried some brakeless "sidehopping" today. Scary even though on this small curb.

On my 24'' street bike I've had a MT5 (now a MT6) and both are very good brakes; 180mm rotor. The MT6 offers more modulation. The BB7/200mm rotor, on my 26'' pure trials is, when it only comes to blocking the wheel, better than the Maguras. It's like hitting a wall when pulling the lever, the modulation is harder though. Get some Trialtech pads for the BB7 and Odyssey linear slick cables. This and your XTR V-Brake levers and you are all set.

Are you running a 180mm rotor on the front and a 200mm on the rear? What happened to the Echo?

Basic stuff again as I cannot compete with you guys. Since my last crash due to my lack of front wheel control, I'm a bit scared of doing spins on it. I am learning spins on the rear though. The manual up the slope took many tries and I eventually gave up trying to manual through the small gap at the end. Some of you could possibly jump onto the rail. Bunny hops are getting easier as well. 90cm are pretty easy now. I don't know if I can achieve my goal of 1m by the end of the year though.

BB7, Magura MT5/6/7, Saint, Trialzone All good choices and Trialtech pads are available as well (except for the MT6).

BB7, Magura MT5/6/7, Saint, Trialzone All good choices and Trialtech pads are available as well (except for the MT6).

Just get BB7s and be happy.

Next year I want to get up there with a bunny hop to hook. I will have to learn it first though. I can probably get my rear wheel to where the bars are which should be enough to hook it. I have never done a hook though.

Trialzone, Saint, MT6/7 are all very good brakes that don't leak. If for some reason all the brakes mentioned start to leak on your bike, go for an Avid BB7 with Trialtech pads. In my opinion this brake (good cables and SD7 levers) are well up there with the hydraulic counterparts. If it starts leaking as well, you might have some very bad karma.

They did.