I do it differently. I try to have the wheel true (up and down) the same time I tighten the spokes (left right). After a few turns of the nipples on the entire wheel, I usually tighten the shorter spokes (if it's disc wheel or on most rear wheels) to the max tension and only after this dish the wheel tightening the longer spokes. I also stress the wheel about 20 times in this process. The fine tuning is done with the Tensiometer again checking that all spokes are about the same tension. On a disc wheel I rather have all the spokes the exact tension than have it 100% true. On a rim brake wheel this cannot be done obviously.
It also pretty much depends on the rim. Spank rims tend do be true already so if you start out with exactly the same turns on the nipples, it'll be true in no time. Some trials rims, well... aren't very true to start with.