niconj

BB7 is low budget and doesn't leak.

Probably nothing special for him.

How do you calculate this?

Thanks. The question is whether 1st: 8 engagement points make a noticeable difference and 2nd whether the Pro 4 is as reliable as the Pro 2. I can imagine that less material is being used to create the 44T ratchet having the same diameter. I don't think that the larger flange diameter makes a stronger wheel or at least the Pro2 has proven to be a very good base for a strong wheel build.

Anyone knows the difference between the Pro 2 and the Pro 4 other than 80 vs. 88 engagement points?

According to @Ali C they are. For the MT5 (which is basically a MT7) there are even Trialtech pads available. You may consider a BB7 though (see above).

Yeah! This! Nothing happens when I crash but I'm still afraid. The 80cm wall is starting to bore me but I'm still afraid to go on to 1m.

My problem is this mental block. I get higher and higher on the wall I've jumped on half a year ago already. If I try a higher wall, not as high as my wheels are in the air on the lower wall, I don't even jump right.

On a street trial. On a comp bike they may have some disadvantages as Flipp pointed out.

After having built the Rockman Liberté and ridden for a couple of times I went out with my "old" Rockman and found that it felt better. This gave me reason to "upgrade" it a bit. I mounted a shorter stem (150x30°) and a BB7 because I really like having the same lever for front and rear. Funny thing is that the BB7 is on par with the Trialzone/Tech 3 brake and now I can run my old Avid levers which I really like. The clamp bolt is hidden so it's like the old HS33 levers where you can't hurt yourself. The only thing that still bothers me is the brake booster on the rear. I've already bought a carbon plate (5mm) to build my own but haven't gotten the saw blade for it yet. As soon as I get it, I will copy the Tektro booster that is mounted now as it fits perfectly. The bike is pretty heavy at around 9.5kgs but I don't care and if I want to save some weight I can mount the Monty tire that is pretty decent as well. Rockman² by niconj, auf Flickr Rockman¹ by niconj, auf Flickr

Lol... I don't have any headphones.

It's probably not the Halo spokes* but once one spoke is broken, the ones next to it take a lot of stress as well and break easier.

That was the plan. As soon as my Jitsie FFW gives up I will order the Hope hub. May take a while though. I have to fight my compulsive shopping.

Yeah and I think he ran the through axle which is about 100gr. lighter.

Kinda want one... true. Mostly because it's more reassuring than a FFW. Doesn't Jack run one on his crewkerz? Not that it'll make me ride like him.

Thanks. Well, my bike weighs 9.4kg as it is now. I run a "Der Kaiser" on the rear* so it is already a bit heavy there. I don't mind the extra weight (have lost 5kgs of weight myself over the last couple of weeks). I will run pure trials with it though so not much rolling here. *I could run a Monty on the rear which would make up for the weight transfer from the middle to the rear.

Upping this here. Does it make a huge difference running a Hope on the rear instead a FFW on the front? Weight difference is only 115gr. overall.

I second that! Since I don't care about weight anymore, I'd like one of those frames for myself.

More preload? @AndyT As promised I lost some weight. Here's my newest video. As @insomnia pointed out, I paid attention to a straight back. The "be more flexible" part is the hardest though. I still made some progress I think even though the wall isn't any higher.

Edit: I took the time to true the rotor and in combination with the adjustable brake pads of the BB7 there's no rubbing whatsoever. I also set up the brake different to the manual. I figured that the most power comes from the brake when the litte brake arm is in 90° to the caliper (when the pads touch the rotor). So before tightening the cable, the inner pad has to be as as near to the rotor as possible and the outer pad has to be moved with the brake arm as close to the rotor as possible trying to get a bite point at a 90° angle. Then the brake cable can be tightened. It's a bit fiddly but it works a treat. Brake is super powerful and quiet. It is a bit heavier but taking a good sh*** has more weight savings than a Hope brake and is for free.

Everything is the shit! I really enjoy those videos and they are a good motivation to go on and try to be smooth and clean without to many correction hops etc. Thanks so much.

I got a fairly cheap BB7 and bought some Trialtech pads + Odyssey cables. I just changed the brake and left the 200mm hope mono rotor. Well, I'd say the brake is as good as the Hope* I had on my bike before and I'm pretty sure that it hasn't fully bedded in yet. The bite point isn't as defined but it's still like running into a brick wall. I swapped brakes because I like the same lever on both sides. Now I even have the same lever feel (running SD7 levers and an Avid Ultimate Vee on the rear), which is very cool. I don't mind the soft bite point. *Hope Trialzone caliper, Tech 3 lever, Jitsie pads

For me it takes more guts gapping to front than to rear.

I did get a chance to see it. Was pretty cool for 54 seconds.