niconj

As I said, I tighten the chain as in the Tarty video. Still, even if not caring too much about chain tension, my second issue is more annoying.

That's cool then. So mine hasn't skipped once then.

This and gaps to front I think.

I know but it's not brand new, neither worn too much.

1. It's really not that difficult and done in half an hour 2. Because everyone is using Saints. And I guess the 4pot Hopes are too expensive and heavy compared to the Trialzones. Also, if the wheel is locked, it's locked. With Trialzones, Saints or V4s. You don't really need more power. Having said that, if it wasn't for the squishy lever feel on the rear, the BB7s would be right up there as well.

So I've got an Echo 24'' frame with the integrated tensioner screws. Whenever I tighten the chain (using the snail cam tutorials' steps) and ride for like 3 hours, the chain is loose even though the tensioner bolts are still in the place I put them (put Loctite on them) and the axle bolts are being tightened enough (using serrated washers). I can't imagine the wheel to be moving for the above reasons and it is still centered in between the brake pads even with the loose chain. How come the chain gets loose after only one ride? It's a KMC Z 610 HX chain. Also, whenever I readjust chain tension, tightening just one axle bolt moves the wheel to the left side a lot so that between tyre and seatstay is just 1cm whereas on the other side it's 2cm or more. I always try to tighten the bolts on either side bit by bit to have the wheel centered but can't always get it the exact way it was before so that the brake pads have to be bedded in again, which is really annoying. Any suggestions?

The 810s aren't made anymore but you can get the lever, the hose and the caliper independently and build one. The Trialzones have a 25mm piston. I don't know the size of the V2's piston but if it's smaller, there's less power. As for the Tech lever. It just so happened that I could compare my race lever with them and even though the two adjustment screws are a nice feature, I don't need it. I like the bite point close to the handlebars and that's possible with the race lever adjustment. It's true that the bite point adjustment affects the lever reach but I feel very comfortable with it the way it is now. In short: - The Hope Tech lever offers reach and bite point adjustment independent from each other. - The Hope Tech lever is heavier - If the V2s have a smaller piston then they are less powerful - If the Trialzones are even more powerful with a Hope rotor and Jitsie pads (compared to my SLX rotor and standard Hope pads), then the V2s with that setup can't impossibly be too weak. - The Saints (I've got a 810 lever paired to a Zee caliper with Goodridge braided hoses and a IS->PM adapter + Screws + EBC RedStuff pads) are 150gr. heavier than my Trialzones (caliper No.3 = no adaptor needed with a 180mm rotor) - The Saints feel more like an on/off brake in comparison to the Trialzones which transfer the power more progressively (my opinion) which gives you more modulation All in all you won't regret buying either brake even though I like the Hopes more as they offer spares, which isn't the case with Shimano and!!!! I have never read anything about Hopes braking like my Zee caliper did just the other day (on the rear). Zee by niconj, on Flickr Hope that helps with your decision.

After having fitted Trialzones today I think that they are well up there with the Saints.

Switched my front Saints for a Hope Trialzone and it's awesome even with used Hope pads and a Shimano RT66 rotor. Can't wait to see it's performance with Jitsie pads and a Hope Mono rotor!

Bit boring. 8min of skate park riding... No need to go to Portugal to do that.

The titanium one or the black one? I got the black one and after a month of use, broke a pawl. Got a replacement under warranty and the new one skips* every once in a while as well. I don't know what to make out of this. *Don't know whether it's actually skipping. When track standing I tend to move my crank to adjust for the length of a run up or sth. and then, when applying slight pressure on the pedals, it makes a clicking noise just like the skipping sound. Under full pressure I haven't come around this "problem" yet.

After my 2014 HS33R didn't work properly I got a Tensile Tocco lever, that had some problems as well. I send it back, got a new replacement but still went for the Racing Line. Since then I haven't had any problems whatsoever. Absolutely love it and if it holds up like the 05 Maguras, the price won't hurt too much.

Ok. So I've fitted the Trialzone with used Hope pads onto my bike and for lack of a Mono Trial rotor left the RT66 on. Even on the first ride it's a very good brake and I suppose it'll brake even better with the Jitsie pads and Hope rotor. I wouldn't recommend using the RT66 for a long time though as the pad stands over on the bottom of the disc quite a bit and I can immagine that this could lead to some performance problems in the long run as the brake pads will wear unevenly. Other than that I'm quite surprised already that the Trialzone works that well even w/o the soon to come parts.

I tend to disagree. I like mine more. The red applications just aren't my thing. Btw. The best (looking) 24'' trials bike is this one: DSC0563 by niconj, on Flickr

If it only had more engagement points...

Only the newer 820s/640s. The 810s seem to hold up just fine.

+1 Maybe TGS has become boring and he wants to compete. Doesn't matter if he isn't as good as the pro riders... sponsors don't pay enough to make a living out of it anyways... And I DID enjoy the video.

Lets just hope that my Trialtech Sport Lite forks were faced.

I'd say that only the lever is better (better ratio = more power) than the HS33 one. The Racing Line slaves seem to be leaking from time to time. I've paired my Racing Line lever to Magura slaves and it works like a charm.

But hope does have PM brakes as well.

But the Saints are PM as well...

What does that mean? Is this the same with shimano brakes? edit: It is. Thanks.

That easy! Thanks!!! These shims aren't special are they? Also, I saw a Hope video where he aligns a PM caliper and in the end pushes a little on the brake pads to perfectly center the disc, meaning that one piston is further out than the other. Will they stay like this after braking?

So I bought a second hand Trialzone (haven't gotten it yet) and was wondering how the caliper can be aligned so that the disc isn't rubbing. It's the IS mount caliper No.3 that can be used w/o an adapter and with a 180mm disc. I just don't get how it can be aligned as there's no side adjustment like with an PM caliper. Thanks.

I second that but only with them 810s. The newer ones apparently brake, even though I cannot figure out why.