niconj

Funny. The older you get, the longer you need to warm up. I remember when I was 17. I dunked coming straight out of the locker room. Now, at 34, I need at least an hour to do such things. I can jump higher though. I guess at a younger age you don't have as many muscles that need warming up and later on it needs more time to do so.

Comparing: Nr. 1 Wheelbase: 1040mm BB rise: 60mm Chainstays: 367mm Head tube angle: 72* Head tube length: 110mm Reach: 640mm with Nr. 2 Wheelbase: 1050mm BB rise: 70mm Chainstays: 360mm Head tube angle: 72* Head tube length: 105mm Reach: 650mm

One question still. What does longer reach do to the handling of the bike?

Why is that? Has it only lasted you one year?

I meant the frame you rode before.

What did you ride before? 127x30 seems very short for your height.

How does this affect riding then? Because: 367 Echo: 360 Rockman: 368

How does the Radix compare to the Echo?

My Because 24'' has a wheelbase of 1040, an Echo 24'' has 1050 and a Rockman Radix V2 1075, which is almost what 26'' bikes have. I read that people. were complaining about wheelbases getting shorter on Echo frames. How does it affect riding?

+1

I read that the XTR Zero Wave levers are the shit.

Endo or pedal kicking. I was always hopping backwards. You're right about the looking back part. Whenever I look at my not so old videos in my blog I laugh at myself and back then I felt like a king when I managed something new. (Not that I'm very good now)

Isn't it hopping backwards what beginners usually do? Forwards would include pedal kicks.

Nope. I can't see any considerable flex either. I thought it was the frame flexing but it's rather the brake clamps moving. Sort of turning the seat stays. As I said it doesn't feel any different just has gotten louder. I will have to see how well it performs bite/hold wise on Friday though.

I didn't think that the frame would flex that little w/o the booster. It actually feels the same when pulling the lever. The only thing I noticed right from the start (and my Trialtech pads still haven't bedded in after readjustment) is that the brake has gotten way louder. It's like a train braking. Won't do any night rides anymore I guess.

Why not lower? Your Liberté has 55mm if I'm not mistaken. The thing is that since I've been riding some stock bikes, I want one rather than a 24''. They just feel so much nicer on the rear even though the guys around here told me that mine's better on the rear. On gaps it also feels that I have more leverage I you know what I mean.

Hello, I was just wondering how the BB height of a 24'' compares to a 26''. My 24'' has got 60mm and the 26'' I've seen have lower bb heights. What would mine be on a 26''? Would I have to take into account other things like wheelbase (mine's 1040) and stuff? Nico.

Will test them as well and also get rid of my 4-hole booster. Just want to know how the brake differs. It's one thing reading about it on a forum, another having first hand experiences. Having said that, I don't find mounting a 4-bolt booster that hard actually. The only tricky thing is to get the alloy shims to stay in place.

Tested it yesterday. It worked except that it moved once and I had to tighten the bolt. FILE0013 von niconj auf Flickr FILE0014 von niconj auf Flickr

Mine even flexes a little with a Trialtech 4 bolt booster. I don't know whether the brake is "too strong" though.

When are you actually stopping speed? I don't usually skid when on my trial bike. Hold would be pedaling up some obstacle and when landing on it, how well the wheel stays still?

What's bite and hold again?

Why? If the frame flexes, isn't a brake booster helping reduce it and put the pads with more pressure on the rim?

Well. I suppose that the Trialtech sprocket that ends on the right hand side of the threads isn't supposed to be mounted like this. In either case, having the sprocket in line with the tensioner would put the now perfect chain line off by around 1cm to the left; with an Echo sprocket it would still be 5mm. Oh and I'm such an IDIOT! I filed down the snail cam bolt to the level of the snail cam and now the 74kings fits as it is mounted between the hub spacer and the snail cam. Again. I'm an idiot! Should've done that earlier! edit: I will have to file down the spacer by one mm still as I have to widen the frame a tiny bit. Wouldn't bother with a steel frame but aluminum is different I guess.