niconj

He's got them.

Final Version. Love the 150x30° stem. So much better than 150x35° or even 165x35°.

Which would get him like 20gr of weight saving. I don't really think it matters which bolts. I'd even go as far as to say that rear Hope hub vs. FFW doesn't make noticeable difference in the feel of the bike. I went from Hope Trials to Echo TR FFW and can't feel any difference except the more engagement points.

Yeah... we talked about that already....

So far so good. Have mounted the Try All serrated washers + a Trialtech HD cam* and it seems to hold. Will have to test it though. Nico. *Holy f*** that is a nice snail cam. The JAF I had before are a piece of sh*** compared to the Trialtech.

I was already wondering why there aren't any post mount frames and only some postmount forks for trial out there. I only wished that there was a Trialtech Sport fork with a +20mm post mount and not IS making it still necessary to use an adaptor. I kinda don't understand that seeing that almost all disc brakes are PM nowadays.

If not I'll get some of these combined with these.

I run the ones I linked. I wanted to get the new Hope Hub as well but an Echo TR FFW is cheaper and has 108 engagement points. It's lighter too. p.s.: We are talking about the Hope Trials with 80 engagement points?

I'm waiting. I've ordered some Try All serrated washers (aluminum) and a Trialtech HD Snail cam though. We'll see how that works.

And I meant that the Echo Urban doesn't fit the TryAll cranks but neither does the TryAll bash. My Urban, at least with my Try All Isis cranks, pushes against the crank when tightening the freewheel resulting in a freewheel not resting flat on the bash, which could cause some problems I guess. Edit: As you are using a screw on sprocket on the front it shouldn't be a problem. At least it wasn't when I was running this setup.

Funny. I have an Echo Urban Bash and a TryAll crank. As I was told that I had to modify the bash, I bought a TryAll A-Symetric thinking that it would fit w/o any modification. It doesn't! Had to file it down at least 1.5mm to make it fit. Pfff....

Best Price.

I'm using this combination on my trials bike and haven't found any downside to it. people. say that half links are sh*** but it's better than a half link chain. On a MTB, it's not a problem at all. Have ridden half links forever there and never broke any, even reusing them a couple of times.

Why not just use the KMC 610 with a single half link. Works, especially being "only" a MTB.

Just wondering. What if the copper grease gets around and actually on the pad? Couldn't that be possible?

Me neither + Avid uses DOT and Shimano Mineral Oil the latter being more user friendly. Get the BB7s and be happy. Besides the things already said, they offer more adjustability due to the possibility of moving both pads independently.

Fade as in heat causing the brake to fade? I would highly recommend the BB7 with the Avid oranic pads. Silent and powerful brake for all purposes and certainly more powerful than the Acera. Hydraulic does't necessarily mean more power. BB7 (organic pads) + Jagwire Ripcord + SD7 Lever + RT66 rotor = XT BR-M785 powerwise. Have ridden both.

And what about these? If not, could I order some Monty ones by phone? I don't need them to be on the website.

I just got a reply from Tarty saying, that they don't stock any steel washers. So my question is, can I use the linked serrated washers? It should work as it's not the stronger clamping force of the steel washers rather than the form. Right?

Well, I asked at Tarty what steel washers they recommend. They may have some old Onza ones lying around. If not, I'll just get some of those serrated washers like these. They should work as well if I'm not mistaken.

No. My question to Tarty was about some Trialtech washers but having a look at the description of the Onzas it says that only the bolts are steel and the washers aluminum. If that's really the case (and I doubt that the description is wrong) would these do as well?

I was told (Tarty) that aluminum washers only help a little and that I should get steel serrated washers. Couldn't I just use these under my echo washers? Does it matter how I mount these? Meaning if I mount them to click downwards or upwards to tighten the chain.

You don't need to know any German to have a look at the pictures: 94 pages of broken parts

Well, I dunno if I am having problems with the micro notches. Here's the situation: - mounted new Echo TR Freewheel + Trialtech cog on the rear - did all the steps shown in the Tarty Snail Cam video - tightened the Echo TR hub bolts to 12Nm - rode up and down the street After that the chain had a slag and I had to do it over. I had a look at the snail cams and on the drive side the notches were flattened out. Later, after having tightened the chain again, I rode some more and the chain got slag again. I put a mark on my frame that shows that the rear wheel hasn't moved but the slag got bigger nonetheless. The chain is a 3x ridden KMC Z610.

Well, my bolts have notches as well. Would it be better to take those then even though the offer less adjustability?