niconj

Damn it! So how does the bar affect the geometry/riding? Mine is 720mm w/ 9° back- and 9° upsweep. Give me your 165x35° stem then.

Zee Caliper 58 BH90 cables 15,50 810 Lever ca. 35 and some oil.

I want to be more stable on the back.

I have. It doesn't feel much different. Head angle :72° Wheelbase:1050MM BB:60MM Chain stays:367MM

So I've built up my Because Simple Trials bike and have opted for a 150x25° stem and a Tensile 99 bar. Now I went out yesterday with a couple of experienced guys and they told me that I should get a higher (and longer) stem. The reason they told me is that on the rear wheel I'm not straight enough and my elbows aren't in a 90° angle (more like 110° or sth.). I also feel as if I'm pulled down to the front whenever I'm on the rear-wheel. Now I tried a guys bike (26'') that had a longer and steeper stem and it felt more secure on the back (I know that it might be only the different geometry of this bike). Anyways, I narrowed it down to 2 stems. The Trialtech 165x35° and the Echo TR 170x30° but am uncertain. Here's the comparison of the two with the current one: Trialtech Echo Comparison of the two: Any suggestions? Thanks, Nico.

Not really talking about air, at least not very much. It's that tiny little bubble that always comes out (with the newer Shimano brakes) when putting the little cup into the lever.

Exactly BUT there will be at least one little bubble... I've done it various times and never managed it to get it w/o having this bubble in there. Doesn't matter though.

Shimano doesn't need a rebleed after shortening either if you take care while doing it. I'd recommend the little plastic cup and some mineral oil though because it is very likely that you get a little air in when shortening at the top (where it's done).

As this scraping got on my nerves I had a look at the spring I wrote about. Then I found out that my caliper was 1mm too low resulting in the pads being 1mm too low as well. With this, the disc touched the spring fairly often as it gets narrower on the top. I put two washers under the caliper and haven't heard a scraping ever since. The pads sit nicely as well. You might want to check whether your caliper sits too low as well.

What about the Rocket Ron 2.1?

Just wondering. What do you think of it? I was told that a smaller tyre on the front would make a difference. I have the holyroller atm.

It's this red grease you use for the dust wiper seal (the grey rubber thingies) on Rock Shox forks. It should be fine. 50/50 may have been a bit too much. I think I put 60/40 or sth. like it. I will have to rebleed soon anyways for the rest of the oil still stuck in the system will be clogged and I want it out.

Where do you get the 810 levers for 20? Also, the Zee has more power than the 810 Saint. It's just the lever that sucks!

In Germany the Z!!!!ee caliper costs the same as the Saint. As I said, the Zee lever is almost the same. To be honest, since the free stroke adjustment has been widely criticized by many MTB riders, I don't see why you would want to buy a Saint. It's more expensive and has the same performance as the Zee.

As I wrote, the caliper is the same except for the decals. As far as the lever is concerned, the Zee is lacking the free stroke adjustment, which no one needs anyways. cf. BL-M640 vs. BL-M820. That being said, you could also build your own 810 saint, which is better than the 820 as far as trials is concerned (or so I've heard). Just buy a 810 lever from Taiwan, take BH90 hose and connect it to a Zee caliper (or Saint, as the price is basically the same). That's what I did.

Get the Zee (if that is what you want having written vee in your post). The caliper is the same and as far as breaking power is concerned, the zee is a saint.

Is this one of these jokes Germans just don't understand?

I know it's not a representative study but sometimes I think that Because frames aren't manufactured well. My 24'' is supposed to be run w/ 18/14 which makes the chain either too short, or too long. Even with 18/15 it's a tight fit.

I don't take my phone with me. Period!

That's what I did. Then I greased up the piston w/ Military Grease and water bled it (50:50). BTW, here's what Tarty says about Racing Line and water: "Please Note: As with all the Hydraulic Rim Brakes we supply, these levers are only covered under warranty when used with mineral oil. This warranty period covers manufacturing and materials defects for 6 months. However, through our own testing we have found them to work when using a water and anti-freeze solution." Mine is 2 months old already and I don't suppose it's gonna break in the remaining 4 months.

Nope. I bought the lever only. I have some military grease pm600 (the one for rock shock seals) here. Will that do the trick as well? Also, how do I get the oil out of the system before bath bleeding it? I saw the video with dish washer detergent but that can't be right now can it?

Hello, I've had a water bled HS33 already and pretty much liked the feel of it. Now I've recently bought a Racing Line lever, which is far from cheap and was wondering whether water could do any harm to it. The brake isn't mounted yet and I would really like to water bleed it, but on the other side, am afraid of wrecking the lever in the long run. I have all the options to oil bleed it (Royal Blood, Shimano Mineral Oil, Castrol LHM+) but would really go for water instead, iff it doesn't damage my lever. Any experiences/suggestions? Nico.

Have got the stem back and it so doesn't fit my bike. It's going to be sold and swapped for a black one. In the picture there's the rear brake missing. As soon as I got it installed, there will be some nicer pictures of the bike. Because von niconj auf Flickr

Some (most?) spoke nipples are longer, but have the same length of threads, meaning that they are only longer for using them in deeper rims. Some spokes calculators (spocalc) for that reason don't even include the nipple length.

Still haven't got the stem back.