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About Daan

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    Trials Newbie

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  1. 2019 Hex here, the newer generation. A friend of mine with the same Hex made his triple 68/73 RF cranks work with some mods (spacing all the way to the drive side, cutting down the 22t ring tabs a bit); unmodified the ring hits the chain stay, as with my Deore, and likely also with the old Saints (they're all the same spec, old school triples, same chain line). I think Swoofty runs the newer XT double crank, which does fit, but you need to be creative with the bash ring. So for Saints, go 83 mm
  2. A 68/73 and classic 4 bolt ring will be be tight. I couldn't run a (3 ring style) Deore on mine, the ring hit the chain stay. 2 ring version of the Deore does just fit, but can't mount a bash on the outside. Switched to 83 mm Race Face cranks (well, "superboost" actually), which are fine. Chain line is another thing to consider with this setup. On my industry nine rear hub, I have to run the cog all the way inboard for a straight chain, so if the crank were any closer to the chain stays, my chain line would be less than ideal. A Hope hub has a bit more space. For old school Saints which have the classic 3 ring spacing, go 83.
  3. Judging from my own parts bin, it seems that the Pro 2 135x12 mm through-axle is the one pictured in the middle, with the smaller diameter freehub section and the same taper as the Evo axle. The regular Pro 2 Evo uses the axle sizing at the top, which is the same as the regular Pro 4 axle (coincidentally, the trials version of the Pro 2 Evo does actually use a similar sizing as the Pro 2, with the smaller freehub section). Figure you'd need part number HUB240 for a bolt-in non-trials 135 mm axle. Or HUB235s, which seems the same but without the bolts included? https://www.sjscycles.co.uk/hub-spares/hope-pro-2-evopro-4-rear-boltin-conversion-kit-10mm-hub240/ https://www.sjscycles.co.uk/hub-spares/hope-pro-4-rear-10mm-boltin-axle-silver-hub235s/
  4. Yep, sudden huge bike demand since covid. However, 24x2.4 Holy Rollers aplenty, e.g. Bike24 still has 26 of 'm in stock.
  5. Don't like dealing with sealant either, so I've been running tubeless without it on my trials bike. Might be lucky here, but it holds air fine with a maxxis tyre. Running a nukeproof noodle in the back, which is not great: stretches from the air pressure and starts to rattle, so you have to cut it down some more after a while.
  6. Get some retaining pins (Shimano and Sram pins also fit) and the four individual style of pads will work too in the mt5; I like them because they're much easier to remove and insert.
  7. Use a long pedal wrench or a cheater bar over your Allen key, like an old seat post, and you won't have any issues. There are no threads on my trials bike that go untreadlocked Plus, how often do you remove your pedals?
  8. Together with massive torque, I put blue thread locker on the pedal threads too.
  9. Buddy of mine runs them with Saint levers. I find the levers more solid feeling than my MT5 levers (but that's hardly an achievement), but they have very little lever throw and engage really quickly, which I find feels less nice, or is at least something you really have to get used to. Magura's caliper pistons have less roll back than Shimano's, so it's no wonder the levers engage so fast, especially with the servo wave linkage they use.
  10. It's definitely great they respond so quickly. Hopefully they'll just send me new innards and the tool to replace the drivering so I have no down time, and then I can send the broken stuff back. But yeah, its age, that's the thing that has me quite worried: my Hydra is only 6 months old. And the skipping sound has been going on for at least half of that. Add to that I've seen a couple of Hydra's now that have exactly the same wear, one dude's even cracked the freehub in one of the pawl pockets. So I'm not sure how much of it can be chalked up to tolerance issues, or if it's inevitable they'll all start skipping after not too long. Maybe many people won't notice, as the skipping doesn't really feel like a classic skip, because there's so many engagement points. Plus I think because of the design it won't happen too much under real power, only when there's half power applied, the stage when there's still little flex and only one pawl engages. I sure hope that's all not the case. How does yours look inside?
  11. Alrighty, got a message back from i9, sent them some pics of the drive ring too (on close inspection, some teeth look a bit more shiny than others), and they told me it's definitely missed some engagements. At least we know where the noise comes from then. Bummer. They reckon maybe some pawls where slightly on the lower side of the tolerance spectrum, causing the stretching of the pawl pockets and the engagement issues. Their customer support does sound very responsive, wanting to either fix up a new hub and manually remeasuring the moving parts to make sure tolerance is perfect, or replacing the innards. Hopefully the latter is possible, not looking forward to yet another wheel rebuild. But, at least case closed on the noise. Time will tell how long the fix will last, hope they're right about the tolerance, and it's not the actual design.
  12. Cheers Adam. Will try to keep my mind off the noise. But I have dropped the video in i9's inbox, as as you say, a bit more wear than I'd like to see after a relative short period of time. Might give them something to think about, for their hub design.
  13. Yeah, it has me concerned, especially as it's only like 6 months old. Thinking with the pawls being pushed back in their seats when you put the power on might sometimes make some noise, especially if the timing of the pawls relative to eachother is starting to get a bit off due to uneven wear? And to think I was raving about this hub initially, big wad of cash too.
  14. Tried the multispeed chain, no difference. Before I have peace with the fact it could just be me being too sensitive, a question for the guys that also use an i9 Hydra hub, should you find a moment to have a look: can the pawls in your freehub also move this much? It's way more play than on my Hope hub. https://youtu.be/juzsIhsSMuw
  15. Nope, you don't need any with GXP on 73 mm.