Daan

Members
  • Content count

    34
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Community Reputation

10 Good

About Daan

  • Rank
    Trials Newbie

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Male

Previous Fields

  • County (UK Only)
    Non UK
  • Bike Ridden
    Multiple
  • Country
    Netherlands, Kingdom of the

Recent Profile Visitors

746 profile views
  1. No, I mean a 26" wheel will clearly not fit in the frame.
  2. No. Unless you grind a whole chunk out of the frame.
  3. Thought I'd give this an update. Received a new hub from I9, and built this into a new wheel a few weeks ago. First ride the new hub was fine, second ride gave me the first skip/pop. Couple rides later, 1 or 2 skips every ride, even after I cleaned out the hub of grease and re-oiled it (but there wasn't much grease in there to begin with anyway). Contacted I9, they suggested I install the springs from my old Hydra freehub inside the springs of the new one, doubling them up. They also wanted to make me a custom skinnier axle with a bushing system in the freehub, which they said might prevent skipping (how would this work?), but turned that wasn't an option, as I'm using the bolt-on version. Anyway, with the double springs, the hub is crazy loud and draggy as hell. But it hasn't skipped since (3 rides in). We'll see how that goes. By the way, pawl pockets have already started to flare out, after around 10 rides.
  4. Try a dab of grease below each bolt head as well. Also, I tighten mine more than 6 Nm, as occasionally I got my bar to rotate in the stem clamp on a not so smooth landing. And I totally get you, can't stand any creaks myself either
  5. Sounds familiar. Have you tried cleaning the stem/fork steerer interface, headset spacers and the headset races on the steerer too? I seem to recall with mine that eventually solved it.
  6. Interesting, I had the same issue on my Industry Nine Hydra hub. Skipping only under very light pedal pressure. Pawl seats were very worn out after a few months, and teeth in the ring were ever so slightly damaged. Industry Nine sent me a new hub straight away (great service, and I'm in Europe too), which I've just built into a new wheel. And lo and behold, the new hub also does the skipping. Second ride in, first skip. Not as bad yet as the old one and there appears to be no damage on the teeth yet. Is this something inherent to trials use with these pawl type hubs? I have to say I had no problems with my old Hope Evo hub.
  7. 2019 Hex here, the newer generation. A friend of mine with the same Hex made his triple 68/73 RF cranks work with some mods (spacing all the way to the drive side, cutting down the 22t ring tabs a bit); unmodified the ring hits the chain stay, as with my Deore, and likely also with the old Saints (they're all the same spec, old school triples, same chain line). I think Swoofty runs the newer XT double crank, which does fit, but you need to be creative with the bash ring. So for Saints, go 83 mm
  8. A 68/73 and classic 4 bolt ring will be be tight. I couldn't run a (3 ring style) Deore on mine, the ring hit the chain stay. 2 ring version of the Deore does just fit, but can't mount a bash on the outside. Switched to 83 mm Race Face cranks (well, "superboost" actually), which are fine. Chain line is another thing to consider with this setup. On my industry nine rear hub, I have to run the cog all the way inboard for a straight chain, so if the crank were any closer to the chain stays, my chain line would be less than ideal. A Hope hub has a bit more space. For old school Saints which have the classic 3 ring spacing, go 83.
  9. Judging from my own parts bin, it seems that the Pro 2 135x12 mm through-axle is the one pictured in the middle, with the smaller diameter freehub section and the same taper as the Evo axle. The regular Pro 2 Evo uses the axle sizing at the top, which is the same as the regular Pro 4 axle (coincidentally, the trials version of the Pro 2 Evo does actually use a similar sizing as the Pro 2, with the smaller freehub section). Figure you'd need part number HUB240 for a bolt-in non-trials 135 mm axle. Or HUB235s, which seems the same but without the bolts included? https://www.sjscycles.co.uk/hub-spares/hope-pro-2-evopro-4-rear-boltin-conversion-kit-10mm-hub240/ https://www.sjscycles.co.uk/hub-spares/hope-pro-4-rear-10mm-boltin-axle-silver-hub235s/
  10. Yep, sudden huge bike demand since covid. However, 24x2.4 Holy Rollers aplenty, e.g. Bike24 still has 26 of 'm in stock.
  11. Don't like dealing with sealant either, so I've been running tubeless without it on my trials bike. Might be lucky here, but it holds air fine with a maxxis tyre. Running a nukeproof noodle in the back, which is not great: stretches from the air pressure and starts to rattle, so you have to cut it down some more after a while.
  12. Get some retaining pins (Shimano and Sram pins also fit) and the four individual style of pads will work too in the mt5; I like them because they're much easier to remove and insert.
  13. Use a long pedal wrench or a cheater bar over your Allen key, like an old seat post, and you won't have any issues. There are no threads on my trials bike that go untreadlocked Plus, how often do you remove your pedals?
  14. Together with massive torque, I put blue thread locker on the pedal threads too.
  15. Buddy of mine runs them with Saint levers. I find the levers more solid feeling than my MT5 levers (but that's hardly an achievement), but they have very little lever throw and engage really quickly, which I find feels less nice, or is at least something you really have to get used to. Magura's caliper pistons have less roll back than Shimano's, so it's no wonder the levers engage so fast, especially with the servo wave linkage they use.