Herbertlemon102

. You riding anywhere this weekend?

Excuse me dan the gap at 2:25 in this looks fairly pinchy https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=yOtgZpXzO7g

it's when the wheel "drops" when you jump that I'm trying to get past

it's where you take off from the very very edge of whatever it is you're jumping from, and the technique involved means the tyr compresses almost to the rim when you preload.

basically identical to that yeah, though not to front I'll join you in that learning

I need a bit of help with these. On a good day my gaps are about 7 1/2 feet, however I'm not counting the extra few inches where my back wheel is resting away from the ledge- when I gap (from watching my videos, I seem to be relying heavily on how much I drop the front wheel. But with a gap where my rear wheel is resting actually on the edge, when you try and take off with the same method the rear wheel will just drop down, obviously I've gained a comfort zone with starting a ways back, but with a rail or a thin wall I don't have that luxury; and I have no idea on the technique used for a pinch gap, so I thought I'd ask. Also, I gap flat, and have no idea how to do that "midair tuck"; if people could elaborate on that too that would be great. On group rides and things I still get the clapped for doing a big gap even with my wierd ass technique, so I dont think it's too bad, but it's definitely hindering my progress for transitions from thin edges, so I'm trying to progress. Thanks guys

I don't know you personally, but from the gist I get, I want to see you riding this whip at tartydays with all the lads

I've slapped the saint back on, cheapskate or no I can't be arsed not riding while waiting for things, I'd rather tinker. £1 is out of my budget anyway

Do you think I could bodge my own? All I can see it's doing is stopping the cable from being pulled out of the screw, I could give it a go

Bang! And the brake is gone. Well, kinda. More or less fine from the crash, but I've killed the cable. Luckily, it was right at the end nearest the lever, so trimming it down is not a problem. But my question is: how do you get this olive shaped thing off so I can move it onto the bit the next bit of cable? It was a pretty big cable split and oil went everywhere xD

I wish I knew how to make these photos bigger on the screen instead of having to click on them

inspireds are much stronger than your echo, thicker tubing

ah I think it's invite only...? Maybe drop me a message/pm

We're the "coventryish riders" riders on Facebook, there were 3 more who couldn't make it

dunno what youre on about, ten people showed up and it was a blast josh leech, pogo, myself, josh Gilbert, john, rich, James, tez, Jason, Chris. Was great!

we seeing as I filed it off... No

it does but rawing it made it unreadable

oh you sexy man. Pm inbound

It just looks like it's leaking, wrap some ptfe tape around the the screw threads, job done.

.that sounds expensive, if you could slap some pics and price? hmmmm

Myself, pogo, Ryan, josh are headed to Leicester if anyone wants to join, 1 ish at the courts just up from the station

cheers. yeah I thought it was 98' but someone said to me it might've been an 02'. Is also temporary and for sale

my dad wondered into my room earlier and forced me to do just that

So! I decided as a entertaining little project, I would repair and modify my very old 1998-02 raceline magura. At the start: paint scratched to hell, brake seized, does not work. First off I wanted to get it to work, so I flushed it out and found the internals looked okay, no leaks. Through trial and error I found the lever would occasionally not return, and I decided this was to do with the piston. I found it was seized (more or less) and removed it, cleaned the bore and piston, replaced the spring, and hey presto it returns nice and snappy. Next up was a mineral oil bleed, and now the brake works perfectly. Onto the appearance- super tatty. First off I rawed the lever blade with some sandpaper and wire wool, then with the help of nitromorse, I did the same to the lever body. Obviously nitromorse can't get into all the fiddely places, like between the bar clamp etc, so that was another job for some Swiss files and sandpaper. The process was then repeated on both slave cylinders. The end of the lever blade has this "sphere" shaped end, similar to motorbikes, but i thought it is completely unnecessary on a bicycle brake, so I cut it down to make it look more modern, and save about 0.0000000001 grams #weightsaving So now it looks and works the part, but I'm wondering what else I could do, please put some suggestions below! Drilling the lever blade was an idea. I'm still after a more modern magura though so get In touch!