Herbertlemon102

Personally I'd just run the hose through the frame

I don't think I've seen a geo released, though can someone confirm me on this?

Saracen M.A.D/ phase

Joe prattleys prototype onza edge 24". "More news coming soon"-onza bikes.

who even knows, I've just looked at it again and laughed.

First idea- I have no idea what's acceptable geo wise, but here's what they are- Wb: 1000mm Chainstay: 340mm Bb: +100mm <---(going mad) Reach: (measured from top of seat post/tube to headtube) 540mm Head angle of 70 degrees/ or 120 depending which was you measure it from, it's 20 degrees from vertical. I've put the disc mount inbetween the two stays, measured to fit my Deore.

yeah I'm aware.

really? Feels lower haha

A high bb sounds interesting, my limey can't be more than +60 so it would be interesting to try one...

I know the problem, it's my freewheel not being centered, as in the outer cog of the freewheel doesnt spin true to the center. It's a common problem, ericbenjaminr had the same problem Wiith the same freewheel, and I said exactly what you just said to him when he put a tensioner on. But in the end, I'm not replacing a perfectly good functioning freewheel, just bend a spoke to shape and the problem is solved.

I still run the old style echo sl- 3 owners, and I've had it for about a year. Never skipped, never made any strange noises. Whatever echo did with that freewheel, they need to do it with their new ones too...

now I'm tempted to get out my pen do you know what would be interesting? Fitting it with an EBB- eccentric bottom bracket, where the bb is not centered, and you tighten the chain by adjusting the BBs position. Carbon belt drive bikes have them often.

So I've just received my engineering scholarship and sponsor from Warwick university, and with it comes £300 a year to spend on "engineering related studies" (even though they have no way of checking what I spend it on) so I thought I'd build a mod frame. Onza tpro has already given some amazing ideas, as I just moved this from chit chat, but I'd like some ideas and inspiration for aesthetics and function. I have free reign over what I can do. Things like the disc mount being inbetween the two stays, etc. I'd just like to hear peoples ideas , I'm really looking forward to this and want to include a bunch if features! "You could try magura mounts on the chainstay or underside of the seatstay? It may not be 100% efficient, but it would look hella cool you could also put the disc mount in the gap between the gap between the chainstay and seatstay rather than on top of it... It should have a sprung tensioner, but on top of the chainstay rather than hanging below so you can't bash it, but you retain the auto-tensioning, set and forget functionality Integrated seat, like an ashton? Definitely 135mm rear spacing so you can run a hope hub! You could play around with tubing profiles and materials to prevent denting downtubes and retaining strength elsewhere I guess... How about having the head bearings seat straight into the headtube? Bolt through axles? " ---here are some idea from the chit chat post

I'll create another one in trialschat, though I like those ideas!

I've just received my engineering scholarship and sponsor from Warwick university, and with it come £300 a year for me, £200 a year for my college to spend on me. They have no way of checking, but they said the money should be put towards "engineering related studies". I'm thinking of building a frame. I'd like to give it a go, anyway. I own a mod so it would be a mod frame. What should it look like? What features? I'd like some ideas and inspiration on interesting aesthetics and features. Cheers

old pair of handlebars wedged against the removal tool and the pedal works if you can't find a bar that fits Edit: whoops not a freewheel, my bad, but of you put a threaded rod through the cranks anyway it would still work

that's why I like my Deore, it's got really good modulation but still holds like a bitch when you need it to

Can bb7s get pad rock? Even if they could, an inch of movement sounds like a loose rotors or calliper, like what was said above

The highly eccentric nature of my echo sl was starting to get on my nerves, it would be over tensioned at one point and no tension at another. So, following some simple instructions, I made a spoke tensioner. As I dont have snail can bolt holes, I put the end if the spoke through the hole in the chainstay to the top right if the axle bolt. Works a treat. Makes a noise like a dying seal, but I dont mind that. Anyone found a more effective style if spoke tensioner? I'm interested to try out different ways of spoke tensioning , if there are any.

nothing really went better than avid pads with an avid rotor, I've heard horror stories of different rotors messing with the performance

what pads were you using in them by the way?

I'm hoping you meant him not me I guess I just prefer how with hydraulics you have the feel of "pushing" the piston when you pull the lever, instead of the "pull" of the cable, if that makes sense. They are good brakes though. I wouldn't hesitate to have them on a slightly lower budget build.

not meaning to start an argument but something can't be "great but shitty", that's a phrase that contradicts itself, you need to elaborate on why it's great and what faults it has. I've tried bb7s before and the stopping power was immense, but I didn't like the feel of the lever when I pull it. So this good, but can have faults depending on who's using it. I will say they're a thing you have to try before you decide whether you should have them or not.

Saint m810 would probably be on there, as would maybe an onza t-pro haha