Archie H

I had an early arcade that cracked in a very similar way a few years ago, being steel it was easy enough to weld up but repairing that will be slightly trickier. Definitely sand it back and have a look, if its f**ked and you want rid of it ill buy it from you, been looking for a mk1 Skye frame for a wall decoration for a while...

Yeah, I think sometimes the marketing and semi-humour ruins some of his videos, but this one felt like a good balance. The comedy side and even the marketing fitted the video really well. Not a bad place to be held up in either

I know a few people on TF aren't the biggest Fabio Wibmer fans, but give this a watch and I guarantee it'll make you a little happier.

There's something about Ali's riding that is so perfect. The accuracy and precision is incredible and the quality control on the filming and editing side is really noticeable especially when you compare it to a whole load of other riders who seem to bang out super hyped up videos filled with trials sins and sub par riding (still good, but just not on this level) that seem to just be like a Danny Mac copy just without his creativity and skill set. Ali's are always different though, they're not hyped up a load, there's not poor comedy or cringe moments, its just a few minutes of super clean and watchable riding. So well done and thank you Ali and Mark.

Cheers guys, just bought a couple to swap out the broken one and got one for the other brake aswell to even them out. Left a big hole in my bank account but hopefully will be worth it...

Hi all, Broke the lever blade on my magura MT trail (MT4/5) a couple days ago and wondering what to do. I know this isn't an uncommon thing but I like the maguras and don't wanna go to shimano. My main question is about HC3 levers on the cheaper magura brakes. Basically, does it work? I've heard people saying there is a bit of flop in the lever when they do this, is this massive and is it a problem? At some point I want to go to MT6 and MT7 but sadly don't have enough cash to do that at the moment. HC3 levers are like 20 quid more than HC's so if it will work, i might go for it. Thanks.

Stick with the MT7 and get an SLX or MT6/4 for the front. Dont know why your keeping different mineral oils for magura and shimano, it doesnt make any difference if you use their own branded one or not, all brake mineral oil is pretty much the same.

I'd just buy a new freewheel at this point, save a lot of time and effort. You could spray some WD40 in the freewheel, lean it over and spin it. See how much crap drains out and just keep going until its coming out clean. I used to do this with freewheels and then put some wet lube or a thin grease in it to keep it going.

I assume so, unless they have used some super metal then the smaller surface area is probably going to wear out quicker. Although, goes back to their thing about pawl flex so maybe when a few engage it equals out to the same (or more) surface area than another hub. As for if it did skip, my money would be on total destruction of both shins and teeth. There's no way it could engage again with such a small contact area. Although, I could be (and often am) very wrong. What does their warranty cover? If you ride it a few times and discover the pawls are wearing, can you get a new hub for free?

Hopefully they will be nice and send you some. Be interesting to know what’s it’s like and see if it is worth the enormous price difference. I think that’s how it’s looking at the moment. After all, Pro 4’s are pretty flipping good at what they do.

I think the idea is, with more, smaller ratchet points, the flex will be less as they will flex and engage quicker than in a larger ratchet design which would require longer travel distance before the ‘bite’. Same thinking with having all ratchets offset instead or in pairs or triplets, one will engage and that will be the starting point for another 3 or so to flex and engage. I think it’s a good idea as it is taking advantage of the inevitable flex that is usually bad but is being put to use on this system. Although, as you said, for high torque loads I wonder will it jump and skip. Would definitely be interesting to hear someone riding trials with them to give a bit of an insight. If only there were cheaper...

If you could get a really good chain tension and then that hub it must feel amazing just to have that almost instant engagement. Yeah, that is maybe a concern, also the ratchet ring bit doesn’t have very sizeable teeth so I’m not sure how much torque they can be put under.

I've always gone with Pro4's over i9 based on the price and the fact that there isn't really must difference besides a few cosmetics. However, if this system comes out in a SS option that is strong enough for trials then a change may be in order, despite the huge price. 690 engagement points?!?! https://www.pinkbike.com/news/review-industry-nines-690-point-engagement-hydra-hubs.html

Stick your phone against a wall and film the drivetrain as you jump on the front pedal. Then you should be able to see what is messing up, if not, post it on here and I’m sure someone will spot what’s up. Even if you think it is the freewheel it’s worth checking to avoid wasting money on parts you don’t need.