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About nbr-chris

  • Rank
    Trials Dude
  • Birthday 08/02/87

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  • County (UK Only)
  • Real Name
    chris wood
  • Bike Ridden
  • Quick Spec
    Onza Pro, commencal 4x, santa cruz v10
  • Country
    United Kingdom

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  1. Best leave it bare and polish every now and again, lacquer will/ does dull.
  2. I ride/ rode everything left foot forward apart from pedal ups where I was going right forward and half a stroke. It did my head in, it looks messy and means you need a bit of a run into things. I spent a few rides upping left foot forward and after 2 or 3 rides have bettered my previous biggest up, much more comfortably and much more smoothly. Yes its good to be able to do both but it sounds as if your doing what I was- so you can't static hop-up with wrong foot forward, so your not actually doing the same thing. For comps etc. its an advantage to be able to go either way and be comfortable with your wrong foot forward, also if you ride anything else its good for cornering, switchbacks etc. in dh or tech climbs in xc eg where your on a steep climb and cant make a full pedal stroke to clear a stone. Practice with both but don't be led into "holding back" your good foot by using a half stroke, you lose so much pop, need twice the approach space and its much harder to land smooth.
  3. 2 things that helped me, do it uphill and head towards something, eg start 2 hops away from a curb so your dropping off it on the 3rd. Its really very easy but has to become autonomous, if your heading for a drop you focus more on that looking for your edge etc. which seems to allow the pattern of brake off, kick, brake on to come a lot more naturally. Going uphill helps as you have a bit of resistance so your not scared your going to loop out the back and the gradient naturally keeps you nearer the balance point. If you can balance on the back wheel for a second or 2 your hitting the balance point so your halfway there. The second you start thinking in trials it goes wrong its just about commitment and autonomy.
  4. Hi, Trials wise I'l have a go at either but "ride" is maybe a bit strong at the moment. There's some reasonable street round here but just square edge walls, planters etc. nothing too inspiring so I tend to edge more towards natural. Natural wise there's a few nice little boulders round me and a real good bit of waste land nearby which has big rock blocks stacked by a digger from 1 foot high to around 8-10 feet and everything in-between loads of potential for gaps and some nice off camber slabs again with scope to transfer. Not really 100% natural but certainly not square edged or consistent in terms of heights gaps etc. so it has a very natural feel. Ridden Cambus a good bit on the DH bike and over at North Third, yet to go up with the trials bike though. I've recently bought an Onza Pro 20" trials bike which is a bit of a change from my V10 DH bike! I gather as expert champion you'l turn your hand to either pretty well!? It'd be good to ride with somebody so accomplished if your ever up this way or have any good spots to share. As I say trials is fairly new to me but riding a long time and willing to have a go.
  5. Anyone from round here ride? I've recently moved to Tullibody and started riding trials, background is DH racing but there's not a great deal to ride local in the evenings etc. Found a good few spots round here and lots of bmx'ers but no sign of any trials riders, even on youtube. If anyones local give us a shout, it'd be good to meet some locals and share a few spots.
  6. Cheers for the replies, it helps having people with more knowledge than me! I think maybe the trialtech stem might be a good investment for me for a start, i'm not really keen to replace the frame at this stage or able to afford it. At least I've been along the right lines with riser bars and spacers, obviously I have a fair idea of geo and my prefernces from riding dh but its a completely different ball game on a trials bike even if the principles are the same. Like I say my knowledge of parts is pretty hit and miss, based on a combination of common sense and looking on tartybikes so theres deffinately stuff out there I'm not aware of.
  7. OK I cant be the only person a little above average height that rides. I'm around 6 foot 4, mostly ride dh but due to my location have been dabbling in trials. I don't really know any trials riders so can't try different bikes, I bought an echo control long but still find it a little cramped. Its around 2005 with urban forks so I believe the wheelbase is around 1080 which seems to be about as big as you can go? I run riser bars which help a little and an echo stem I would guess is about 110mm so again unless I was to run a mod stem I can't go much bigger. What do other taller riders run? On my DH bike I like to be over the front end a bit which suits my riding style fine but on a trials bike it just doesn't work for me, unless its just an excuse for my poor riding! I'm wondering wether to go towards the whole 24" streety set up with steeper angles or maybe even a mod just so theres more room under me but I'm reluctant to go throwing cash into it when I can't try before I buy. Do any shops allow test rides (obviously I appreciate theres not going to be a chance to ride it properly but even a car park test would be better than nowt) or are there any riders around Aberdeen that would meet up and give me a shot of their bike. As I say the echo was just a stab in the dark really (and a bargain), logic said go long and low but now I'm not so sure.......
  8. r u on hotmail,my buy the frame m8

  9. I'mm 99.9% sure the bike shack is allready in use aswell. They sponsored a recent race at Whykhem. I know its not illegal or anything but i doubt they'd be too pleased and you'd probably have trouble with a website etc in the future.... Might be worth bearing in mind Edit: Nope sorry i'm thinking of bike outlet and bike cellar. Bike shack is in use but ones american and the other is motorbikes
  10. It doesn't matter how good'er driver you are you aren't physcic. How do you know someone isn't crossing the road around the next corner, someone isn't going to pull out without looking, even a cat running across the road- if you swerve to avoid it chances are your going to loose control if your speeding. The only place its 'acceptable' is on a motorway providing you aren't up someones arse. I don't have a problem with being in a car at speed but the consiquences aren't worth it. Could you live with yourself if you killed someone just because you wanted to get home a few minutes faster... Although in the words of Jeremy Clarkson "Speed has never killed anyone- its quickly becoming stationary again that kills people.
  11. Right, I've got an Olympus CM10 camera and i have absolutely no idea how to even start using it properly. i've tried google but my descriptions eg "the button thats says 35-70" don't really help Roll Eyes I've figured out the zoom ok as far as zooming in and out but then theres 2 more dial things on the zoom. One on the end that goes from 0.75 to 10 m. Now this makes it super blurry one way and really crisp the othe so it seems fairly obvious that you use this to select the quality of the picture? Also if anybody can tell me what its called that would be good. The other right at the back is marked 22 16 11 8 5.6 4 and doesn't seem to do anything so whats this and what does it do? On the main camera bit theres a dial on the left marked (going clockwise) Check, on, off Self timer. Then in the middle is a silver handle that spins round clockwise- whats this for? Then on the left is a dial with B, ASA Auto, Manual adapter then numbers from 25-1600. I can select between B, Auto and manual but not the numbers so i've no idea what this is meant to do either. Then theres a black lever and a silver button that looks like something is meant to screw in to it. And finally on the front is a dial that turns 90 degrees with R written on it. I would have a play and just see what everything does but i've got no batteries or film for it and i don't really want to waste money on film and developing pictures when i have NO idea what i'm doing so any help will be much appreciated.
  12. Having owned both i'd say the trailstar. I prefer the ride of steel anyway so that would be the main thing but it feels far more stable (with the same kit -130mm forks etc) in the air and its better from the gate if you ever wanted to race. The back end of the Azonic is flexy as hell, i ran a carbonique booster with a maggie and ended up buyind a disk for the back it was so bad. The trailstar is far less flexy- wouldn't even need a booster with it. As for tyre clearance i only run a 1.85 on a 24 but with a 26 i reckon you could get a 2.6 at the most but theres no point having such a big tyre in a hardtail anyway. Theres more clearance on the DMR than the Azonic. I think thats answered everything (Y)
  13. How much would it be for a heliocoil kit with the tools i'd need to fit it? I've had a look at the site but its about as useful as... Its for my brake mounts so would need to be 4mm. I know theres a few people on here that sell them but do they include fitting tools, do you even need specific tools for them...? Any help appreciated -cheers, chris
  14. Get it on the forum at disfunktional dirt if you havent allready. Most of them are around the Leeds area and are looking for 2 bikes stolen from near Stif in Leeds so they may well see it around. We should be at wharncliffe steetly and barnsley this week so we'l ask around, see if anyones heard owt. Good luck getting it back (Y) If its not seperately insured it should be covered for about 500 under the contents insurance. I know its worth far more but its better than nothing
  15. On the bright side its cheaper than contraception :blink:"