Tomm

I don't hate the French Melissa Theuriau (more on google images...)

Idioteque is on Kid A, yeah.

I think it's Etnies, yeah. At least they're owned by the same people. Like mink said, try loads of different brands on - the fit is mostly the same within a brand though. The heat moulding is really to reduce pressure points (blisters) rather than make an ill-fitting boot good, so don't buy a boot and assume that it'll feel loads better when heated. For what it's worth, Burton and 32 boots are quite wide compared to others, I think. My Burton boots are a bit small but they don't seem to cause me too much trouble and I can't be arsed buying new boots which could be horrible and crampy. But I should have tried on more pairs when I was buying them.

No one hates southerners or northerners or scousers, it's just banter. Which is why scousertrial's reply was a bit stupid.

lol no it's not, off-peak is March-April-May time. Gets expensive again around September (when everyone is thinking about going snowboarding ). Agree with that. Snow & Rock on the other hand is a total joke of a shop. No one knows what they're talking about, it's expensive and very much ski-orientated.

Get down to the snowdome at Castleford, there's a shop called Subvert there, that's good (There's one in Manchester too). (http://www.subvertboardstore.com/news.htm) Or for cheap proper stuff, the best place is apparently Blue Tomato. They're based in Austria but they deliver everywhere and they're cheap. CRC do some snowboarding stuff, but I wouldn't bother looking, they never have anything good. Blue Tomato

It has geometry, but you can change it and have whatever you want (Within limits). I think the 'standard' one is 1020 wheelbase, +25mm BB, 385mm stays (this can't be changed), 73 head angle. I have no idea if they'll send abroad though.

Adam (in the video) recommends Finish-Line wet XC lube - which is again another brand name but it's basically bog-standard bike lube, though it is quite thin. So anything similar ish will do the trick. By the way, due to the design, Chris Kings are MORE likely to skip when there's only a bit of pressure on the pedals - as you pedal harder, they engage more firmly.

I learnt to front-hop before I could back-hop. It's not that weird, but then again backhopping is much more useful. Stop blaming the bike and practise more! There are plenty of sites/threads on here that will teach you how to backhop. Use the search/google.

It is tempting, but no. This actually IS the worst topic I have ever seen on here - and simultaneously one of the best. I feel bad to have to close it. Jsy Ben R - Can you put some effort into your posts, and please don't ever, EVER, use text talk again. That would be aces

Auto-Mod For Sale/Wanted topics are no longer allowed in New Members Chat. If you wish to post a For Sale/Wanted topic on Trials-Forum you need to read and follow this - http://www.trials-forum.co.uk/forum/index....ounce&f=13&id=3 Topic Closed.

I've never ridden one, I don't think there were that many in this country, so I don't really know much about it. It's one of the kinda old-school trials frames. Not terrible, and probably better than about dirt jump frame, but nowhere near as good (for trials) as a modern trials frame. If you wanted to build up a street/dirt/trials bike it would be OK, but then again most people on here ride 'proper' trials bikes - if you try and make a bike good for more than one thing it usually ends up being pretty rubbish for everything. If you are getting it really cheap or you're short of cash, then it's probably not the worst frame in the world. But you'd be better off spending money on a proper trials frame.

Tartybikes used to have the older one so I don't see why they wouldn't have the new one when it becomes available.

No, they're terrible brakes on a DH/XC bike. Ever worse for trials as they have no bite or hold at all. Sell them and buy maguras.

Trials frames are usually much longer. A long dirt frame (DMR sidekick or something) = a very short trials frame, in terms of length. There are loads of other changes though. Shorter chainstays (on the whole) make the bike better on the back wheel, but a bit worse for manuals. High BB makes trials a bit easier - nicer position, more ground clearance - but will affect how the bike corners at speed. This is not a problem for a trials bike (we don't ever go fast, or round corners), but that's the reason why dirt bikes (and DH bikes) have lower BBs. For wheelbase, have a look here: Wheelbase wiki There are no trials-specific sus forks (except perhaps the rockshox that Martyn Ashton has but I think they're custom). The best you can do is use DJ forks which will be strong enough, but they're very heavy. Or use an all-round fork which will be a bit lighter and cheap (like the MX Comps). No-one really uses sus forks for trials so I have no idea which would be 'best' - anyone even slightly serious about trials runs rigid forks.

Radiohead have released their new album - In Rainbows. Because they don't have a record deal any more, they are releasing it independently, exclusively via their website InRainbows.com as a download. The interesting thing is that you can choose how much you want to pay for it. So yeah, you can put £0.00 in the box if you want. I ended up paying £1.45 for it, I thought that was reasonable since I probably wouldn't have bought the CD from a shop. The actual album is, er, kinda awkward. I.e. as you might expect for post-OK Radiohead. There are some really good tunes though (and some that are just a bit weird). Worth the £1.45 for me, and definitely better than a kick in the teeth if you're not even going to pay for it. So yeah: InRainbows.com

Tic: I had the same thing, it went on for ages. It started off from riding XC but was actually more of a problem for climbing. Exactly the same thing you describe - tendinitis in the ring finger. I looked it up on climbing forums and actually the advice was to carry on and it will go away - it's a very common problem for climbers. Apparently rest doesn't seem to help, and that is what I found too. I just carried on climbing and it went away. It took a while though - about 2-3 months. For me though, it was never limiting what I did - it was just pain which wasn't severe enough to make me stop.

Oh yeah. I was having a bit of a blonde moment there - trying to work out what tyre there was that cost more than a Slow Reezay or whatever.

Good idea

The 4/3 system isn't so wide though - it has a crop factor of 2, so the 14-45 is about the same as a Canon's 18-55. Dave, in terms of actual lenses there doesn't seem to be too much choice for fisheyes with the 4/3 system. Olympus do a 8mm Fish which is £500+ rrp, and Sigma might do their 8mm in a 4/3 mount which is not much cheaper. The other thing you could do is get a Peleng fisheye or similar and a mount to fit that. You'd lose autofocus/ aperture but the image quality is good and it's not too expensive (~£120). You can try a screw-on lens off ebay for experimentation, but it will destroy your image quality unfortunately. EDIT: lol, I said what Chris said

Argh, stop being such idiots. Oldskool: Firstly, if you're actually 31, you're about the most short-sighted 31 year old I've ever heard of. The 'ex-pro' thing seems unlikely too. Secondly, yes, this forum is run by egomaniacal idiots. Which is unfortunate for you, since the same people who you've just called egomaniacs are the ones who have the validate button. That was an oversight on your part, wasn't it? Thirdly, you're threatening violence over the internet? Big man. Fourthly, if you actually wanted to get validated and had some brain cells to rub together, you could have just made a useful topic and you'd have been validated in no time. Bye

Yeah, I got some from him

Haha, I never noticed that

Um how?! Yeah but no MOT is different.

Isn't that information confidential? lol TB0001 - I think some sort of prize is in order?