Tomm

Too right. Worst case scenario, he goes to America, gets free food + bed and has a nice holiday. As far as I can tell, it's a win-win situation. Well done for actually doing something with your life JT!. Good luck!

There is a program that grabs things from other people's library, it's called MyTunes. I've never used it, so don't blame me if it all goes wrong, but there it is

Wow that's one weird bike. Never seen it before. Is it a mod? Either way there's no way I'd spend £90 (inc postage) on it, you could get a good frame for that sort of money...

I guess the number of lens elements has something to do with it - I.e. the calculations are based on if there was only one element (like in the picture) whereas most lenses have several bits of glass in them? EDIT: And yeah I'm with Bongo on this one, it's not exactly dumb to want to know what something means.

It's probably OK for trials. If you're using it on a crop dSLR then it might be a bit too long to be ideal, but it wouldn't be terrible. It's probably a bit long for landscapes too. Equally you'd want something longer for portraits. For just general photos though, it's probably pretty good, have you googled for reviews for that particular lens?

Top tube length isn't really used any more, cos it gets very confusing with these new-fangled frames with multiple tubes etc, and it depends on the seat tube length. Occasionally people use a 'reach' measurement (BB to stem) but it's not really that widely-used. Wheelbase is kinda obvious, I'm sure you don't need that explaining to you. I don't think short frames are better for sidehops really - at least not frames that are less than 1060 (for a stock). Any shorter and you hit your thighs on the bars all the time. The head angle is the next most important thing IMO, and it's intrinsically linked with wheelbase. If you keep the REACH constant, altering the head angle by 1º changes the wheelbase by about 1cm (very roughly). So as you can imagine, a 1060wb bike with a 74º angle would FEEL much longer than one with a 70º head angle. Head angle affects taps and rolling down things, slacker head angle (I.e. less degrees) = better for taps (less likely to faceplant) but does make the bike feel more barge-like as the front wheel gets further away from you. Steep head angle is probably better for front wheel stuff - hops, spins etc. Of course it's a compromise between these two things - most (trials) frames are between 70º and 74º. And it does depend slightly on the fork you use, too. For a long time, it was thought that chainstay length was really important, and that less was better. But if you have the stays too short, it can be harder to load power into your gaps (harder to manual, too). Too long and the bike is hard work on the back wheel, harder to pull up etc. BB height is again a compromise. But I'll let someone else answer than because I've never owned a high BB bike.

Where are you from? I get the impression you're not from round here. Anyway, Manchester's not that bad at all. You can definitely ride your hybrid to work as long as you lock it up somewhere decent - I ride my road bike to uni and leave it locked up with no problems. There are, however, some place quite close to the university that I really wouldn't want to live - Moss side, Hulme (not too bad), Longsight (again, not as bad). Fallowfield, and Withington are the student area (which are ok but there might be drunk students), while Chorlton and Didsbury are the nicer (more expensive) areas where a lot of young professionals live. Most are within 5km of the campus. The peak district is half an hour drive (or train) away from Manchester and that's great for walking, MTB, camping. And the Lake district is less than two hours away by car. You might have to travel a bit if you want some rocks too, it's mostly street stuff in Manchester. You only have to become a man utd fan if you live in surrey... Weird questions: At the summer solstice the sun probably sets at 10:30 pm, maybe a bit later. In winter it's probably 4:15 or something? Yes, we have the national health service. It's great And for the record, I hate techno and I've never done ecstasy.

Yeah, I've done it and it's well dodgy. For the sake of the 2 minutes it takes to get the tyre off (and put it back on), you'd be stupid not to. If you can't take the tyre off, then you shouldn't really own a trials bike. Have you never pinched?!

Yeah, it's just about finding roughly where the balance point is, and using little hops to correct if you are too far forwards or back. There's no way you can just stay at the perfect balance point without hopping, but if you know where the balance point is, then your hops can be smaller. You can correct to a certain extent just by leaning (no hopping) but it's hard and no-one can do that for more than a few seconds at the most.

I still think a thin one would be better, but I doubt it makes much difference. As for taking the tyre off, just try harder. I think holding the tyre out of the way is really unsafe!

I'd be very surprised if your comp couldn't run CS 1.6, which is an awesome game. I used to play that game fine on my 700MHz PC. Screw new games, old games are just as good Haz, I'm not sure why your comp struggles with Doom3, my comp isn't as good as that (AMD 64 3200+, 1Gb, 9800Pro) and it takes doom no probs.

I used to have a little black box thing that converted a scart lead thing to VGA, so it connected straight into the monitor. It was pretty good, but I don't know what I did with it otherwise I'd sell it to you. Obviously there was no lag or anything with that. I know it was made by Logitech, not sure if you can still get them or not?

Yeah, agreed. That's not a onepointfive.

Seconded. Like people have said, if you do a lot of shots in quick succession then you may notice a difference, but the camera will have a 'buffer' to deal with some of that anyway. So unless you're firing off 10+ shots within, say 20 seconds you'll be fine. But it might still be worth spending an extra pound or whatever to get the faster one.

The restore *shouldn't* delete any files at all. Certainly not stuff in your docs folder etc. A good answer in these cases is to get a version of linux that you can put on a bootable CD, then restart the comp with that in the drive. That'll load and you can backup till your heart's content. And then reinstall Windows which is what you really need to do, some time soon. I suggest Knoppix - You may have to use another computer to obtain this - it'll all free too

Well someone added me so it's probably right

Oh yeah whatever. Can't you search or something? I can't remember my steam email, it might be wheredidthatstaincomefrom@hotmail.com

Yeah, the non-dabbing foot can't cross the "horizontal axis" of the bike or it's a 5.

I am [FBM]Fluid 609, add me

A lot of people swear by cutting discs rather than grinding discs, I've never found much difference.

I can't believe you actually bought a proper trials bike rather than converting a penny farthing or something. Well done

That music was, perhaps, the gayest thing I've ever heard. Apart from that, it was good

Haha, awesome. Proper old-school. These are from waaaay before Onza were a trials company, and they're made for cantis. I doubt they'd work very well for anything these days but the nostalgia in them for people in the know is +++. Good find. Don't buy them

Er, yeah. People used to do this quite a bit. Until they realised that super-light bikes were a bit pointless, and the extra weight of tyres that actually gripped etc was worth it. Fair enough getting super-light bits where you can (ti bolts etc), but I wouldn't take a performance hit for it, that would be pretty dumb.