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Everything posted by Rip

  1. That's going to be one of those things that you just have to try to see how you get on I guess.
  2. I'm in the early planning stages of switching my Magura levers to Shimano levers, I've not had much experience with Shimano levers so I don't really have any idea which ones would work best with MT7 calipers. From my limited knowledge I've narrowed it down to: Shimano Zee (Servo Wave) (Not sure what year/model number) Shimano XT (Servo Wave) (Not sure what year/model number) The Only things I'm really bothered about apart from the increased durability over the Magura levers is ease of bleeding, decent modulation (hence the interest in Servo Wave) and more importantly some adjustment because I need the bite point where I like it. Also am I correct in assuming the following is needed for a Shigura setup: Hoses = Magura Barbs = Shimano (specific to the lever) Olives = Magura Oil = Shimano Mineral or Royal Blood
  3. What made you switch back?
  4. I've actually watched that already, thank you. It's a good video for showing the process and the bleed. Just need to know which levers would be best for me.
  5. I forgot to say in my OP that I did actually try the bedding in process with them again using water and it didn't seem to help. Hopefully it's sorted now anyway, fingers crossed. I hate noisy brakes!
  6. Had the rotors and pads a while (few months), all bedded in nicely and both the front and back work absolutely fine, lots of holding power, no contamination etc but the front has developed a honk seemingly out of nowhere. It honks when the brake is partially on (anything from 10% power to 60% power) and goes quiet again when more pressure is applied. I can feel vibration in the rotor while it's honking which goes quiet if I touch it. For reference the rear brake is completely silent and has the exact same setup as the front (MT7 Calipers, HC Storm Rotors and Magura MT5 style Blue Comfort Pads) and the front was also fine up until recently so it's not just a case of the kit I have will honk and that's it, I know they can run silently (like the rear one does) so something is causing it. Rotor is true, caliper alignment over the rotor seems good and as far as I can see the pads are not rubbing as the wheel spins freely. I've also made sure the caliper mounting bolts and rotor mounting bolts are tight. Any ideas or tips and tricks to rid me of the honk?
  7. Glad you've sorted it, I should have another crack at my MT7s soon but it's always a messy faff and very hit and miss as to whether it works so it's not a fun job. I'm always so paranoid about getting brake fluid on the rotors and pads as well so I usually take them off and put them in another room. I had to switch to Magura Comfort pads after my Performance pads bedded in because I went over the bars at least once every time I took the bike out! Far too much initial bite for me! Now I'm a bit more used to them I might try Maguras green eStop pads as they seem to sit in between Comfort pads and Performance pads on the Bite section of their graphs.
  8. Think I may have 'fixed' it. I swapped the front and rear pads with eachother and it seems to have gone away. Bit weird and a bit annoying that I don't know what caused it but I'll take it for now. Now have a spongy rear brake due to the Gorilla tape so we'll see how that pans out.
  9. Just to add I just put some gorilla tape on the back of my pads to see if that would create a damping effect but it made no difference. In fact adding the tape has made my brake feel spongy so if that doesn't go away after the tapes been squashed a bit more during use then I'll be taking it off again.
  10. The i9 is definitely in a different price bracket to the Pro4 so it's not direct competition imo
  11. I made a power bleeder (adapted a car specific one to suit the bike) for the brakes on my old moto trials bike a few years back that connects to the front tyre valve (to give you pressure) and forces the fluid down through the system where you bleed it it off at the caliper. It turned out to be very good because it always worked, it kept the whole system under pressure while you flicked the brake lever and shook the hoses about to release any trapped air bubbles.
  12. You probably know this already but Tarty's bedding in (pads and rotors) guide works perfectly:
  13. Any secret tips for parking for the day that doesn't cost 3 million quid?
  14. I'm heading to Bristol city centre in a few weeks with a mate of mine so it would be handy to know of some spots ahead of time so we don't waste too much time scouting. We're both on street trials bikes and can only up-to-back wheel comfortably about 2 foot high so we're after some 40 year old born again trials rider friendly locations if anyone knows of any?
  15. Haha well I'm leaving them alone for now as they work perfectly when they are the right side up lol
  16. Those pictures are very handy. Mine are fine for the most part but the lever will go to the bar a couple of times after the bike has been upside down, after a couple of pulls they are perfect again.
  17. Oh lol, hopefully you've already sorted it then :-)
  18. Try doing Maguras 'fast bleed', I tried to bleed one of my MT7s a while back after routing the hose through the steerer tube but couldn't quite get it right until I did a fast bleed as per this video: Worth a shot as it only takes a minute, mine was perfect afterwards.
  19. Perfect thank you, that's more than enough to get us started for sure. We don't live too far away (Stroud/Gloucester area) so we'll definitely be back regular for some off piste exploration
  20. This might be why I have a complex about the hole sizes in my rims. See how the locknut on a Schrader valve actually disappear into the hole That locknut is has a 10.5mm diameter and comfortably rattles about in the hole so the hole must be at least 11.0mm diameter which makes my 5.8mm diameter tubeless presta valves an extremely lose fit. (Yes I know technically it doesn't matter). For obvious reasons I didn't wind it in any more but it will probably eventually rattle its way down there at some point anyway.
  21. I've recently started riding a Fourplay Team (Continental MacAskill tyres and Kenda tubes) and have been lucky enough to not get a snake bite puncture yet, I'm running a pretty low tyre pressure at the minute (25 psi) as that's what feels natural for me, I'm hoping to slowly raise that to around 35-40psi but for now I'm wondering if a tyre insert that's designed for tubes would help? Tannus tyre insert: Not sure I want all the faff of a tubeless setup because if you get a puncture mid ride just about all you can do is shove a tube in there so you'll still need to carry a tube anyway and clean up all the mess.
  22. Nice video! And nice bike! Appreciate the more in-depth info on your tubeless set up Looking forward to seeing some riding on it.
  23. I'm saving it for the morning so no I haven't yet, looking forward to it though.
  24. lol, it just annoyed me that they moved when I touched them even very lightly, probably not an issue though like you say. I definitely had a leak around one of the valves...
  25. Maybe I've just been unlucky so far with my tyres then as that's 4 I've had now that won't seat. The only reason I mentioned Schrader valves is because the presta ones move around an awful lot in the larger hole when done up to the recommended finger tightness (and also when nipped up a bit tighter too) but I guess that doesn't matter too much as long as they seal, I'm an engineer so I like things locked in place if they aren't supposed to move