Rip

Nice riding!!

That's exactly what I was afraid of lol

Oh sweet, thanks, so just push the pistons back by hand before bleeding?

I have a set of Tech 4 Trial Zones arriving soon, they are coming off of someone's new '23 bike so probably won't have a bleed block so I need to make one, so anyone know what thickness it needs to be?

Yeah really enjoyed seeing it person mate.

And after watching it up close I can definitely say it's more impressive than it looks in videos. The riding was so smooth and big. Great to see the boys local to me as well and a nice surprise to see Ben Travis in the show too and Rory doing some filming. Great job boys. After watching all of Ali's vlogs and now seeing him riding in person I can only imagine what watching him ride street in person is like. So if anyone here hasn't yet seen the show I highly recommend it.

Probably totally won't happen, it's just an insight into the type of ideas that are being banded around by people who are clearly out of touch with most of the real world.

https://news.sky.com/story/cyclists-could-face-speed-limits-and-may-need-number-plates-reports-say-12674899 Speed limits for road cyclists I totally get, if a car has to do 20mph on a certain road then so should cyclists but the whole notion that all cyclists (assuming MTBs, street trials bikes, bmx's and trials bikes as well, because they use the pavements and roads a fair bit too) have to display number plates that are readable from a distance (so fairly big plates) and assuming also readable by ANPR like car plates is just ridiculous. /In before drilling number plates to make them lighter

lololol after I submitted a support ticket they emailed me once a day for about 2 weeks with the same email stating 'your support ticket has been forwarded to EU support', yet no one from EU support ever got back to me until I kicked off and told them to stop spamming me the same useless messages and even then only half my questions were answered so I gave up.

Now wondering how I get a free set?! I actually tried to get some info from Hayes themselves about a couple of things before makiy an order but got such a convoluted runaround from them I gave up and never bothered because I figure their customer service would be too difficult to deal with in the event I had an issue.

Yeah been there before, pain in the ass.

Well I had a dig around and found a really old retro chain tool in my garage so I've rejoined it with that so hopefully it's all good. It's a brand new chain so as long as my join holds up I won't have any nasty accidents. Still open to recommendations for a decent tool for splitting and rejoining 3/32" chains.

Seriously considering some Tech 4 Trialzones (or even Tech 3) to replace my MT7's, brakes are such a tricky thing to purchase because they aren't cheap and they are so subjective so you have no idea if you'll like them until after all the expense and fitting. Magura levers are so fragile it's ridiculous for a street trials bike that inevitably gets dropped on hard surfaces every so often. And on top of that all of a sudden my MT7's have lost their bite, they seem to work fine for an hour or so if I put some water on the rotors but after that the bite just fades away again, the levers are no more spongy than usual and the pads are definitely not contaminated. Today I actually cleaned the rotors with 99.9% Isopropanol and gave the pads a very light rub on some sandpaper, some brown residue came off of the rotors and some black residue off of the pads but the brakes are still the same (no bite unless sprayed with water). Both pads and rotors are fairly new (Magura Performance Grey and Storm HC). The Grey pads used to throw me over the bars unexpectedly more times than I'd like but not anymore. Maybe I need new pads for whatever reason. Wondering if 2-pot Hope Trial Zones will have enough modulation and bite/holding power with 180mm rotors, I'm told 200mm rotors would improve holding power but also reduce modulation? I quite fancied Hayes after Ali seemed to be getting on fine with them so I bought a used set on eBay but the seller cancelled the order because he'd listed the hose length wrong, the length would still have been fine for me but he never asked and just cancelled it! I've also since read quite a lot about them failing a lot too so maybe I dodged a bullet there anyway. How has the perfect brake set not yet been designed? Robust, easy to bleed with adjustable modulation and bite and user serviceable. Too much to ask apparently lol

Thinking maybe this one? Had dealings with Pro Bike Tool in the past and they are very helpful and their tools are good quality, just insure whether it would be suitable for a 3/32" chain. I'll see if I can call someone and ask. https://www.amazon.co.uk/PRO-BIKE-TOOL-Chain-Spare/dp/B08X7D554M/ref=sr_1_29?crid=250X8PQPU926M&keywords=chain%2Btool&qid=1649255708&refinements=p_72%3A184323031%2Cp_76%3A419158031&rnid=419157031&rps=1&s=sports&sprefix=chain%2Btool%2Csports%2C61&sr=1-29&th=1

I need a new chain tool to join my KMZ Z1eHX Narrow chain, I was looking at KMC's tool (Here) but their blurb says the tool is for breaking only and not rejoining, I know they recomend using a split link but obviously I'm not going to do that so I'm wondering if their tool is not actually designed to rejoin a chain also? I had a BBB Nautilus II because they 'were' apparently well made but they're not any more it seems (see below) lol I managed to use this tool to break and rejoin a KMC chain with success but upon trying it for a second time the thread just stripped out when I tried to push the pin back in. So, any recomendations for a sub £20 chain tool that will rejoin my chain? Assuming it's actually OK to rejoin, the internet has been scaring me with threads about 'you should never rejoin a chain because it will definitely snap on you, you have to use a split link'

Definitely none of the above, I'll see if I can capture it on video to better explain it. Also the fact that my mates bike is exactly the same (rear fine, front weird) points away from something actually wrong with mine. To rule it out though I will swap my front and rear rotors and pads around front to back.

Rear is definitely working fine, tons of holding power under load but I know what you're saying. Exactly the same on my mates bike, rear is smooth, front feels horrible. Interesting about rotor surface, maybe I'll try a different rotor for science, I'll see if Magura do one without holes.

Haha maybe I didn't explain it very well, the way it is I couldn't feather it enough for fakie nose manuals or nice smooth rolling stoppies leading into a g-turn. I'm not disputing what you are saying at all, just wondering why the rear is nice and smooth and controllable but the front isn't?

Difficult one to explain but I'll do my best. My front brake when pulled on anywhere from about 20% - 70% while the bike is moving (like when doing a rolling stoppie or similar) makes a weird noise from the pads and rotor and the actual braking isn't smooth and consistent, it feels lumpy and stuttery. My rear brake is absolutely fine and I can feather it perfectly to save or slow down a manual. I've had this issue with the front brake pretty consistenly throughout 2 sets of rotors (both Magura Storm HC's) and 3 sets of brake pads (Magura Blue, Green and Grey) so I'm 100% sure it's not a hardware issue. Is it simply because the front hasn't had a chance to bed in properly because I use the rear so much more? I'm pretty sure after fitting my current set of pads (Grey) and bedding them in I swapped the fronts and rears over to try to stop this from happening but it's obviously happening again, maybe I need to swap them back again, or even swap the rotors over front to back? Just to add a mate of mine's front brake is exactly the same, same MT7, same noise, same lumpy stutter so obviously we're both doing something wrong.

Mine have been absolutely fine so far, I've dropped the bike a few times and they still work fine. I'm not a fan of how fragile the master cylinders are but so far they've held up.

Seems so, their seal looks very weak compared to the replacement.

www.123bearing.co.uk He got these because they were in stock US-6X10X3-PU94 but said that UT-6X10X3-PU92 would possibly have been a better fit but they were out of stock. They are just hydraulic u-cup seals with 6mm internal diameter, 10mm outer diameter and 3mm height. The PU92 is apparently softer than the PU94 and the US vs UT is the length of the lips. I'll update the thread when we know how if they work long term or end up failing short term. So far the brake seems to work fine.

Well, he's fitted a new seal and it seems to be working again.

@AdamR28yes confirmed both photos are the same piston so that seal clearly had two potential failure points.

I got the impression both photos are the same piston and seal. I've asked if that's the case so I'll update once I know.