Chakers1998

I have an Echo forged 150mm stem that may be up for sale if I find a stem that I like the feel off on my 20".

Forgot about these. Yeah the tyres are mint to be fair, loads of pop and are pretty much the lightest on the market.

Jitsie have some nice products, like the Goldfren pads that they sell (they don't make them), but I swear anything they have manufactured is dog shit. People snapping forks and bars all the time.

I happen to have a spare set of tech 3 levers from where I converted my trial zones to mineral oil with saint levers. I'll be putting some hope seals in the echo caliper and see how it goes. I've put Jitsie pads in and they're much better than the echo pads.

Hi all, Has anyone ever used a different lever on an Echo TR disc caliper? The levers do work to be fair to them but they do leave something to be desired, and are known to leak. I have used an m820 Saint lever on a Trial Zone caliper, which is what the TR is based on, but I'd like to hear if anyone has tried something in the past.

Silex 26 is +30mm BB and I love it, I also like the +25mm BB on the 24 as well. I had a brief go of my dads Fourplay and it feels like your feet scrape the floor the BB is so low, didn't like it at all. High BBs are the way.

My silex was 12kg dead when I weighed it. I've since put a spank race 33 on the rear and put a fatbike tube in there, so probably weighs the same as it did.

I've got a Silex 26 with old Saint cranks, DH tubes and two Hookworms, I'll weigh it in the week and see if the scale survives... I'll probably cry.

I've done this 3 times. It's common on the pro 4 unfortunately. Joacim broke his rear pro 5 but I don't know how, and whilst he was waiting on new hubs he stripped a pro 4. Chris King come back to SS!

RampWorld Cardiff is okay for street. Spit and Sawdust is also in Cardiff but I have never been there so I can't comment on how good it is for street.

I've had both leak, but Echo were by far the worst. Great for crank clearance though.

I've used the spline one on their cranks for for more than a year and they have never skipped. They do eventually work their way loose and you have to get a pin spanner to get the preload right again, but other than that they are great.

Has anyone heard of or seen a Hydra fail due to the ratchet ring threads being stripped? I've done this a few times to Hope hubs and was looking at the I9 but was unsure if others had experienced this with them.

My dads riding trials at 57! you're still a young spring chicken.

Lots of people that I ride with use these rims in both 24 and 26 and they've never had issues with them. Great for tubeless.

@Alex Dark Where can this gentleman ride in Pasty land?

The new Hex is slightly shorter, going from 1045mm to 1025mm and the head angle went to 73.5 from 73. The last change was the chainstay length which was shortened by 5mm to 380mm. I personally really like the look of the Extention Vary, 1035mm wb, 380mm stays, 74 head angle. It's like a modern Hex but with considerably more reach (Hex is 448mm whilst the Vary is 480mm) and a steeper head angle.

They don't make their own MTBs, but they make parts for other brands. That seemed to be the general consensus as to why they stopped production of trial bikes.

Looks like the #Hashtagg rims that come as standard on the Crewkerz bikes and he's probably having to run them because no one wants to make 50 trial parts when they can make 50,000 mtb parts. That what happened to Echo, they are happy filling huge MTB orders and don't do trial stuff anymore.

I had this on my Pro 4 after three weeks... Ratchet ring threads are being stripped and there is nothing that can be done other than getting it warrantied. The warranty replacement that I have has been going since August and is fine so far.

I don't have them fitted on a Fourplay, or even a 73mm frame, but I have Saint m810s on a 63mm Hex and I have to use the three BB spacers on the drive side cup to get the right clearance and chainline despite Shimano saying to use two spacers on the drive side and one of the non drive. I take it that you have a Fourplay Pro with the threaded on rear freewheel that is stopping you from adjusting the chainline at the rear?

Put those suckers in some boiling water for a few mins, then get a small flat head screwdriver or other picking tool and try to lever it out.

I think that SHope got settled on.

I wanted to give this brake mod a try because I found that Hope Trial Zone brakes have too much bite on the front, even with 180mm rotors and the standard red pads. The idea first came when I looked at the brake spares on TartyBikes and found that the Echo Tr and Trial Zone pistons were compatible; so, I thought that the seals would surely be the same size, which they are, give or take a tiny amount. The next stage was getting a mineral oil lever, and I wanted a Shimano one because their Servowave system in my mind would give more modulation compared to a linear leverage ratio lever. @onzatpro09 very kindly lent me a Saint m820 lever to test this mod. After 6 months my observations have been: The power on full squeeze is as good as the Trials Zones and MT7s that I have used but this has more modulation than either of those brakes in my opinion. The lever throw is short and can be made incredibly short if the lever is overfilled. I have not noticed any degradation in brake performance, which was common with the Trial Zones and required constant maintenance to work at their peak. I have not had to touch this brake for the 6 months that I have tested it. I haven’t had to bleed it and it hasn’t leaked. The visible confusion when explaining using a Shimano lever with a Hope calliper is always a bonus. Should anyone wish to do this mod themselves, these are the steps that I took, and it is as easy as changing a pair of worn or perished calliper seals. How things started The first step was to completely dissemble the calliper and clean any DOT fluid that was inside. I used Loctite SF 7063, and this stuff is amazing at cleaning any contaminants. I also used this to flush out any DOT that was in the brake hose. Next, was to pop the Echo seals in. I gave the pistons and where they sit a good coat of Hunters silicon grease. After that, it was just a case of popping the pistons back in and this is where I noticed that the Echo seals have a slightly smaller internal diameter than the Hope seals, but I have not noticed the lever feeling hard to pull. One finished calliper. Then it was time to assemble everything into a working brake using the Shimano barb and olive. I didn’t have a bleed funnel for Shimano brakes, so a zip tie had to do. Thanks to Ali C for this hack. How it finished

Has anyone else experienced poor brake performance using a Crewkerz rear rim? I have tried it with both TNN ADMs and Cousts before and after a fresh grind, and the bite is practically non-existent even with a new grind. One thing that I have noticed is that since the grind, the pads have turned silver from all the swarf, so I sanded the pads down to get rid of this and the performance is still rubbish. The only thing I haven't tried is taking the wheel out of my other bike and seeing if using a Trialtech Carthy rim makes a difference.