JT!

Well snail cams can't really go wrong as they're just a slice of spiraling metal with teeth, and a bolt that you screw into your frame and forget about. But then again tuggs are easier to use, especially since you've never used snail cams before. I'd stick with the tuggs seeing as though that's what you're used to dealing with.

It doesn't really matter, the only reason I suggested the onza ones is because they're for an onza and you'll have less chance of having problems with them fitting. (Although any chain tugg should fit fine). I've never known anyone to break a chain tugg so strength isn't an issue. Also it seems that the t-comp has a drilled hole on the dropout for snail cams, so you could look into those. The hole is for the bolt that the cam with push against. http://www.tartybikes.co.uk/search.php?category_id=114

Oh ok then, those tugs i linked you to are only for the newer onzas, i think your onza is 2007, maybe 2008. These should do just fine. http://www.tartybikes.co.uk/product.php?pr...p;category_id=8 But you could just buy some replacement bolts. To embed pictures use the 'insert image' button.

This?

Erm, what bike do you have. There's no such thing as an onza t-comp 2009. It's either the onza t-comp, or onza comp 2009.

Well www.tartybikes.co.uk has a price match so it'll have to be them!

How'd you manage that?! You're better off just getting in touch with onza and getting one replacement bolts. ...edit, or http://www.tartybikes.co.uk/product.php?pr...p;category_id=8 Edit again: Actually, if you just rounded off the bolt you could probably just replace the bolts at your local DIY store.

There was never really a problem in the first place, the gussets were put there basically to get everyone to STFU. Don't worry about buying either.

Hi, if you don't know about this site already: http://www.observedtrials.net/ Is more of a USA oriented forum, take a look at your areas sub form and you could find some people who ride.

Broke the 3:30 mark. I'm sad I know.

All what you said is bull nuggets. There has been many many thread overs the last year with problems with T-UK, we're talking serious problems. Ordering items, not turning up, not replying to emails, not picking up the phone, order arrives it's wrong, eventually when you get in touch with him you can send the part back and get it replaced, and then you start the circle again from 'not turning up' and end at 'not picking up the phone. A shop like tartybikes on the other hand, something like that has never ever happened, and they probably get about 20x the number of orders than T-UK. The fact is T-UK is an ultimately shit shop, and you're an idiot for buying from them, but a very lucky idiot.

There is no need to open up any dispute with paypal, you will get your item(s)... eventually. Although it shouldn't be me telling your this and you should definitely have had a response to your email.

I have to agree with what he said. They say off the bat "The principle of compassion lies at the heart of all religious, ethical and spiritual traditions". Something based around Religion and spiritual traditions isn't something I'm interested in.

Steve, have you ever thought about organizing something with tartybikes so all your stuff can be bought from there and not from HSB.com rather than you having to send parts out yourself? It would free up a lot of time for you to concentrate on getting big orders out to people like Inur and other shop owners. Then, heatsink products would be able to piggy back on tartybikes amazing rep and service. You'd be sacrificing making more money for good service which I think you'll agree is a good trade-off for someone who has a full time job.

You need to find this guy and becomes friends with him. Then your life will be awesome.

Yeah, how exactly is it broken?

First thing you need to decide is whether you want a mod or a stock (20" wheels vs 26" wheels) the decision is usually made by what you've been riding previously. (BMX'ers end up with mods, and MTBers usually end up with stocks). Which do you think you'd prefer?

I'd never touch them, i heard of a guy who bought some and he was just learning, hopping about on crates and stuff and snapped them without doing any 'to front' stuff ever.

I'm not sure why you're bumping. But to your original question, it seems like you're talking about frame flex, where the power of the brake pushes the frame (where the breaks are attached) outwards. This isn't something that needs to be fixed, it happens on all bikes without a booster. A booster would make the brake a little bit more powerful as more force from the brake would be pushing against the rim rather than pushing the frame out, but don't expect it two make your brake much more powerful, as it only helps a little, however it does make the brake feel better and it's easier to control when the break is on and off. With regards to the scraping problem, check the brakes aren't rubbing against the rim, however this'll only happen with worn down pads. And let us know if you've checked this there's no point bumping up the topic when someone has given you good info and you haven't acted on it. If it isn't that, it could be your chain as the comp has a front free wheel which means that the chain is always moving (as opposed to normal bikes where the chain doesn't move when freewheeling) it could be slack. When the bike is stationary, you shouldn't only be able to move the chain up and down 15mm (aprox) and you shouldn't be able to hit the chainstay or any part of the frame when moving it with your hands. Let us know.

It has the same gear ratio as all other mods. ACS's aren't actually too bad when they're on the rear, especially since the workload is dissipated and the engagement is effectively 54 EP's due to the gearing.

Yes. The middleburns are probably worth 60 .

I never go out of my way to add people from tf. But i accept some if i know who they are. Worst thing ever was accepting Adam Griffin he's constantly posting crap.

iPoo'ed.

Like a virgin, touched for the... ...never mind.

Jupiter something?