dezmtber

cheap small safe items best to use paypal. or if you know them bank transfer. on anything larger or more expencive : wheels frames brakes ect.. its worth meeting so you can take a proper look, otherwise you will just have to get loads of pics and trust the seller. although most pepole wont try and pull the wool over your eyes, who knows if you try that the buyer may be a mentalist and come get you ( i know i have been out to find a seller once when being sold a lemon i got my refund ) the number one thing i would look out for on 2nd hand trials kit cracked or bent frames/forks un true wheels or loose spokes. leaking brakes. cranks with the tapers damaged. over one year old handlebars (manufactuers say replace every year)

so your saying just slide on a 4-5mm axle spacer on the drive side sounds well safe. but if i had just spent £200 i would give it a try, maybe worth putting up a swop for a longer axle saint on pb or southern downhill.

same same, i cleaned the trials and dh but did bad on the xc i even rode the dh on semi slicks when it had rained a lot

the recomended fitment is 2 spacers drive side and one on the non drive side. i guess with the long bb threads they come with you could use 3 on the drive and none on the non drive. and to get the 22t away a little thurther use one of the race face chainline adjusting spacers. atlas crank instructions really i would have got the race face atlas cranks they would work much better.

a bit like what singletrack do at lee quarry with the classic weekend

pretty weird i havent seen anyone with a list containing hundreds of freewheels? i used to snap the old dicta 18t freewheels in half. its nice to see tensile and white putting out some good quality freewheels on these bikes now

hi all dez here, i have been a member for ages. but only recently got back into trials bikes. been of for years now doing northshore, dj and park riding. this year i bought a giant trance x to get fit on and ride my local forest trails. and now i got my self an onza master to get back into the sport. i am starting back in at the matlock comp soon. i am 28 now so do i just enter the senior class or go in for a lower level as i havent riden trials for ages.

anyone ever gone into halfrauds and grabbed a handfull or plastic coated steel v-brakes, they have loads of flex like a mag with no booster. i dont hear anyone prefering those

once everyones stoped wineing about the possibilty that some stock riders still use 22t or 24t cranks hers hopes new trials brake hope web site trialzone looks great and using the race lever looks light

i thought this was o topic about disc pads then, rim brakes dont have a bed in like discs do, all you need to do is line them up correctly so they hit the rim dead on flat. bedding is the pads is basicly wearing down the pad surface so all the pad touches the breaking suface all at once. most rim brakes will do this at the 1st time the brake is applyed (its all down to getting the angle, height and twist adjustments all spot on)keep a good fresh grind on the rim if you use grinding. disc brakes ware the disc much differently to rims, the outer edges of the disc are coller to the centre and ware out at different rates, older discs will take longer to bed in to newer discs. most disc brakes will take from new 3-4 aplacations of the brake, older discs will take anything upto 3-4 times more aplacations. to check if your disc is worn check the centre of the surface is not concave (thiner in the centre and thicker on the outside edge and inside edge. any how you will feel your brake is not working as well as expected. common problems are: incorectly adjusted pad to rim contact. ( be aware to adjust the pad contact winder all the way in before adjusting the 4 point mounts) old used unsharp grind, check with your finger by rubbing the rim, a good grind will feel sharp and a bad one you will be able to push your finger hard on the rim and slide your finger without tearing or sort of fileing your finger. and the last would be a brake in need of fresh oil or more oil. old oil will be unclear and black in colour, it will slowly cause the brakes to seaze and fail. low oil will make the brake feel spongy and the lever will hit the bar before stopping the wheel.if you wind out the adjuster and tap the lever you should see the pads move even on the slightest lever movement.

i used specialized bg deflect gloves last year through winter they work well and keep all the bike control. i would also take a look at endura clothing too they make some very good windproof and waterproof trail gloves.

i am using howitzer bb and hozelfeller cranks now i hear they are stronger

i broke the axle on my saint cranks. to add to the list of frames and bars snapped thought you may wanna see snapped in a good way too many drops i say

ha ha yeah but he probably right new frame ***

try a better saw blade. even then it does take ages to do

maybe you need to adjust the reach, the angle and the position across the handle bar. also given that you hate maggies. maybe get a good mechanic to setup your brakes if you struggle to get them right.

you are much better spending your money on the art of wheel building book. Gerd Schraner

i find if the bike rides well. i am more likely to snap it because i feel more confident in doing large power moves

see if you can get a better pic., is your phone set to "macro" it should focus if you change this setting

in leek staffordshire.

i am only an hour away yeay

is your current frame holding you back ? an upgrade is only an upgrade if you really need it to ride more