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mike425

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Everything posted by mike425

  1. Thanks for the help everyone. It looks like it needs an 83 x 128mm bb. These look like they are only available these days in ISIS, which is a bit annoying as my middleburns are square taper! Photo for anyone interested:
  2. Hi all, I have recently acquired a Leeson 609 which I have refurbed and just in the process of building. I am trying to source a bottom bracket for it, but I have square taper cranks so choice seems limited. Does anyone know the official size of it? I am guessing I will have to turn the lip down on the bb? I have lost the original one so cant measure it. Thanks
  3. Love this! Always had a soft spot for them, I like how Ryan leech ran them with a short travel sus fork
  4. Nice! I have a 609 I picked up that is in the middle of a refurb, just need to do a bit of brazing and then get it coated.
  5. Yep, I am not quite sure about how the frame came about, its not like any other leeson I have seen, must have been completely bespoke. I have everything ready now, just need a couple of hours in the garage to get it all brazed up!
  6. The only bit I need to do now is make a small brace bar for between the rear chain and seat stay on the disc side. I was a little worried all the force just going into seat stay from the brake might damage it.
  7. I bought this frame used from Julius Czar on here last year with the intention of building it with a load of parts I have left in the garage from years ago. However, my other half had a baby 4 months ago and I just have never found time until recently. I bought a new clear 660 about 16 years ago from Clive and I completely regret ever selling it so this goes some ways to filling that gap. It is not a "normal" clear 660 frame, I think it is longer and it has no seat. to be honest, I am well passed using magura rim brakes so I am adding a rear disc mount and I might just remove the magura mounts completely. Also I am not a fan of seat less bikes so whilst I am at it I am going to add a small seat mount and run it with one. The frame also has some dents in the rear stays I am going to fill these with braze and then sand them back so the frame will look good as new. The build is pretty old school as I am reusing parts from donkeys years ago. So far: Hope XC rear hub on a Sun singletrack rim Hope proII front on a singletrack rim Middleburn cranks. Slightly newer but I have a set of Hope Mono Ti discs for it. Stem and handlebars to be confirmed Forks to be confirmed (I am tempted to go with something more modern from inspired here.) I have made and filed the disc mount to fit, I have a small home made jig I have used before for centre and locating it. The seat post is mitred and a slot cut. So I am hoping to braze these on and finish it this week, I will also be adding some cable guides for the rear brake hose.... Frame as it currently is: Seat post made: Dents to be cleaned up: Disc mount cut to size and mitred:
  8. I love these frames, such a good design and the thin steel tubes look great. I think because Pashley always used those oval downtubes they are straight gauage. I would have thought that if they replaced that with a reynolds butted tube they could have shaved quite a lot off the weight!
  9. Nothing wrong with restoring something old frame wise, I have an old leeson that has seen better days. I am in the process of fabbing up a rear discount mount to weld on and adding some additional touches to try and bring it a bit up to date. They aren't worth a huge amount but the old frames are way more interesting than the new ones I think!
  10. Same as above, I emailed inspired and they said that they were selling too many as full builds to have any left over to sell frame only until mid next year
  11. I'm up for that, I'm based in Crosspool, where are you? Cheers
  12. I am 32 in Sheffield, moved onto mtb years ago but recently trying to get back into trials. Anyone local?
  13. If for whatever reason you cannot get hold of Clive or Kris I am happy to take a look and do the repair for no charge to help a rider out? Just drop me a PM if you aren't having any luck. Cheers
  14. I will take some close ups on Saturday. The disc tab needs a reinforcing brace putting on there. The frame is at my dads work shop, unfortunately I am stuck at the office job for a week
  15. Thanks for all the positive comments so far. There are a couple of bits I am already not happy with design wise, but this is the beauty of building your own, there is always something to change on future builds! I am going to fabricate some steel plate chainstay protectors and incorporate them into a reinforcing bridge so they all look slick. I built this frame around an old pair of middleburn square taper cranks. This meant I could try something with a 100mm bb, I basically have massive tyre clearance but the chainstays are dead straight so the rear should be mega stiff. This would limit future ISIS cranks but it was something I really wanted to try.
  16. Couple of photos, only did half as I was shattered.
  17. This is full reynolds butted so pretty pricey. About £150 in tubes, brazing kit, about 1k? im half way through it now, pretty pleased so far
  18. Thanks for all the positive comments, just getting ready to fully braze it as we speak. Geo is: 1090wb 380cs +50bb 71.5 headtube able
  19. So its been ages since ive updated this. As I thought, its been a slow project but im nearly there. Got the frame tacked up in my jig today, planning to fully braze it tomorrow. Pics should be attached.
  20. I am an IT Consultant lol. Nothing related at all.
  21. Its been a while but I have finally got my jig setup - I am going to start cutting tubes this week. Headtube and cones ready for the jig:-
  22. I'm going to start mitring tubes this week hopefully. The jig is pretty much done, just need to machine a couple more parts on the lathe. I'm using oxy/acet with a gas fluxer. I still use some flux paste on the inside of the tube to pull the braze through though.
  23. Thanks for all the comments guys. With regards to strength of brazing - I have tested loads of joints with a 6 ft bar and I always snap the tube, not the join. TIG is technically stronger but with bike frames the tube is the weaker point and many people argue that the heat affected zone from TIG is more detrimental on a bike frame. Either way, I enjoy doing brazing and have the equipment! Brian curtis taught me to braze and he said he has never had a joint fail but plenty of tubes have. The cost of the reynolds tubing would probably surprise a lot of people when compared with how much marino charges for a full frame. I have around £150 in tubing alone for this frame, but it is triple butted .
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