Krisboats

Happy birthday dude.... Birthday E-Lapdance And if one isn't good enough

Simple enough answer, no. Long answer, the pixel shader is a type of rendering done by the card and is built into the hardware. Dedicated soundcards have things like shader model 2.0, 3.0 and soon to be shader model 4. These are functions the boards can do that have been classed as a feature and given a name. You can't update the driver and have it alter the hardware... its just not possible.... yet.

Some brasso will fix that Seriously dude, its one teenie weenie layer of ally... stop worrying so much.... I rode my bare ally dirt jump frame in the sea a couple of years back... not just in the sea air... actually in the water. My frame never transformed into the salt, salt water, or even a giant robot. Its still not even been re-polished and is perfectly healthy. I think you need to get out more and stop living in a "theoretical world" Jeeze ...

I wont say i told you so edd On a seperate note, i need to ask your expert opinion on my brake mount... i'll try and remember to text you in the morning about it.

Spelling? Try looking again at most of the replies in this thread

Super slow processor with onboard graphics and not a lot of ram. I don't think you'll be getting far on that at all. Aliens vs predator (the first one, not the second ), Unreal tournament, quake 2 (maybe 3 at low settings), doom 2 To be honest mate, its not worth gaming on it at all, you'll be sorely disappointed in the end results. To be running on dual screens (you won't want to in gaming, because funnily enough, for a 1st person shooter the crosshair is split in half between the two screens... which is awful) you'll want soemthing with dual outputs, which has been on most cards since over 3 years ago. In order to play new pc games like crysis, stalker, timeshift, ghost recon AW 2, Rainbow six vegas etc you'll want to be splashing out around a grand, which might not even cover the monitors, maybe one... but not 2. In order to play older games, a pc of around £600 might do it. Most of todays games require 3ghz processor or equivalent 1gb ram (xp), 2gb ram (vista) at least 8gb free hard drive space (per game) graphics card with 256mb ram or higher. starting at the geforce 6800's and higher/ati x1600's and higher. dvd drive internet connection Thats not even just to play them well, thats to play them AT ALL. Mine meets/beats all of that and i wouldn't want to try playing new games on it. It would be a waste of money.

Great post, you really answered his question , i mean, its not like the cnc backings are actually made by heatsink and the rimjam ones are cast like magura cylinders. The cnc backings are available in with both pad material and without it, though having the heatsink material in them for only an extra £4 is a bit of a no brainer decision wise. Pads can be taken out of plastic backings too, by heating up the glue to break its bond between the backing and the pad. Sticking them in the oven seems to be the most effective way of doing this, though be careful not to burn them

If its an optical mouse then a standard cheap mousemat like the ones you get free from companies with their company logo's plastered across it will do this. They are coated in a hardwearing plastic surface, which has tiny dimples on it to add more friction to rollerball mice. Unfortunately people don't seem to understand that the dimples in the surface of these shiny rollerball mats cause the light to be reflected at different angles which confuses the sensor and causes it to mis-interpret the returning beams of light, causing the pointer to shoot all over the screen. You want to use the flat desk, or a cheap FABRIC covered mousemat, if it says its suitable for optical mice on the packaging then you'll be fine also.

I only play when theres nothing on tele or when i should be doing uni work. Thats pretty sad

Ha ha, you know it was good I guess your the watson who added me earlier, for some reason i'd got it pegged as being you as soon as i saw it.

Sorry, ust wondering if you added me to msn yet or not... not being bigheaded but i have a lot of people on it and its VERY hard to find people. Had 3 people add me today for no apparant reason other than to say hi

Reported

Will the rohloff arm not rub on his cassette lockring though edd?

I did indeed. Its a shame really, he can type normally and uses punctuation... only went and spammed the forum with fs/wtd topics

It was much better, but.... macy gray?

Hope your not planning on becoming a member

That thing looks wicked, all nicely cureved and fluid looking in design, as if it were alive with its muscular clamp tensed around the bars. I like.... a lot. The calipers have always been good, easily adjustable, solidly built, strong enough to fend of being hit on rocks and trees, the only downside before was the unusal lever shape... which has now been addressed. Well done Hayes, i'll be having one shortly for the dirtjumper

Welcome to the forum, you'll see more people going off topic in any posts you make, as most conversations do in every day life.

I use these steel cutting discs i found at muy local hardware shop. They have a much more defined weave on them, similar to carbon fiber weaves, and they hold their sharpness very well. A new one always gives a nicer grind, so quite often i find i'll buy a disc and use it for one side of the rim, then flip the disc over and do the other side. However, should you not want to shell out loads on new discs you can sharpen them up by holding them against a brick/rock/old rim/car door and letting the disc wear into a point. Hold the grinder at 90 degrees, and skim over it very quickly trying not to go over the same bit twice. If you have a wider rim like a ronnie, do the top half of it with one skim, and do the second half with a second skim. You want to be covering around 4-5 inches of rim with each skim, this way you'll get more defined grooves in the rim... making a better breaking surface. Always go clockwise round the rim for both sides of the wheel. My preffered method is the one above, but holding the grinder with one hand and leaning into it to put a bit of weight behind it, this usually makes the grind last an awful lot longer, while not noticeably affecting the pad life. This is how mine turn out:

Ah right. I meant it in the way that the other people who'd explained could already do it, where as anjo admitted he was only just learning and explained something that would, in all fairness, make it more difficult. So i made the distinction a bit more clear. Yeah, wasn't meant to be rude. Just to make it clear i knew what i was on about.

I know what he meant, but i was asking what did i say that was rude? An elaboration on this gibe i made .

You what? Gibe?

Thats not right at all, higher bars alters the point of balance so much its going to be even harder not to hop back. Like already explained... by people who KNOW what they're talking about. In order to hop on the spot you need to find the point of balance, keep you elbows bent and just jump up and down with your feet. Keeping your elbows bent soaks up any potential pulling on the bars and keeps the bike in the same place.

Same, apart from i watched it all the way through to see if you'd change the angle. Wasn't really suprised that you didn't.

Lol, i wasn't going to mention it... thought he knew he'd called it some retarded name on purpose