Luzac

Blomma, so i can say that an old cantilever brake does not suck in braking performance if you are smooth? braking performance is all about locking power and modulation. if a brake has a lack of power. it does not matter if you are smooth or not. it will still remain weak? first post. damn, i can be smart sometimes!

burned the pads and cleaned them with chemical clean gasoline that leaves no residue same with the disc

or more like. how do i make it stop sucking? shimsed in right cleaned pads and rotor just squeals

my old frame, woah it kinda hurt my eyes

Dan6061 google mavic mectronic before you say that gears won't work either

remove a spacer from the "axle" and add one between the jockey wheel/ plate and you'll get rid of that

oh, I think i recognize some bits and the tensioner, you got it to work properly again? i should have made some guidelines how to rebuild

Hey, i need some help with my try all fixed cassette it's the ordinary 135mm spacing with a needle bearing at the drive side and a ordinary machine bearing at the non drive the problem is that the hub wobbles, really annoying i have never worked with a hub that has this construction so i have no idea how to fix the wobble, tried to tighten everything up, still there. anyone that uses this hub that can help me? i'd appreciate it

it's not a coaster sprocket, it's a freecoaster hub you're thinking about a freecoaster has a clutch that locks against the hubshell when you pedal forward, but then you begin to roll, it disengages and enable you to roll backwards without backpedaling www.free-coaster.com or something like that.

it's really nothing new, if you don't want to wait and if you don't want profiles, just go ahead and buy a pair of KHE flatland cranks, light, rather strong and has the second bolt hole for the 18tooth sprocket. bashring then? or you could always drop tree a mail about some really small tree light sprockets, if you feel that you can trust the system their new sprocket will use (basically no sprocket bolt, just a steel insert that goes against the splines on the spindle. so 2non-drive side crankarms, a Ti spindle and a euro bb, or if you want to mill out your frame, a spanish bb. edit: might as well explain some more two profile race crank-arms 50$ each a premium TI spindle 70$ fit bikes bb with steel cups (not al that is shiit!) 40$ http://www.empirebmx.com/catalog/showdetai...et=catalog.aspx 210$ +sprocket cost equals 110£+sprocket cost instead of 200£ +sprocket cost and all that.

as said, i'll fix the looks of it when i've tested and seen that it really works i took the spring and rollers from and old XT mech but i didn't use the spring that tensions against the mech hanger. i took the spring that tensions the arm, way stronger i don't think that this tensioner will work on any other frame without some modifications since i've made it so it sits perfectly against the frame to add support to the tensioner without having to make it out of really thick material

missed how large the pictures became. resized them to 8/6cm @ Ps dunno what happened, i'll fix it later i'll eventually land on it and destroy it, so i'll run this prototype for a while and fix what needs to be fixed.

got tired of the rear mech, works great and tensions the chain really hard.

Looking into a pair of Tryall FFW since my old cranks died, how do they hold up? (square taper version) should i get a fixed cog and keep the ENO on the rear or should i go FFW and put the fixed cog on the rear? pros and cons of FFW with singlespeed?

I think that i'll try to bed it in again, looking for a hill and some speed Linear slic housing with xtr cable, i know it should be insane. but it has been f**king me in the ear since i bought it i had to respace the hub (shimano XT) since the disc was too close to the disc mount- couldn't align the caliper properly. annoying as hell.

been doing the bedding in process a while, almost seems like the performance has gone down if you compare to at the end of the first ride

So, i'm currently running a BB7 with a 203mm rotor up front, but it doesnt seem to give me the power i want, i've aligned and realigned the caliper several times, both with parktools guide and with avids own. but it seems like it just dont give me the "bite" i want. and another question, the pads wobble in the caliper, is that normal? annoying.

no

think i'll go for the 185mm bb7 if my lbs don't give me some really good deal on the 203 they have in stock anybody knows why chainreaction don't sell bb7 brakes anymore?

might add that i will run the brake on a 26" wheel money isn't not that much of problem, just going to diff £28 in the end, just searching power and so so the 160 won't be too weak

Looking for a new front brake since the o2 don't want to play with me anymore. i've been looking at, Hope Mono Trials, 160mm disc Avid BB7 185mm disc ( i have an XT-lever already) so that's the main choise, i'm a fairly big guy so i'd appreciate some power, i've seen the Mono trial in 180 @ tartybikes, but it costs more than twice as much as the 185mm bb7 will the Mono Trial with a 160mm disc have enough power, or should i go for the bb7 with a linear housing and a XT lever? (have the lever and housing already) cheers

been through a bit of these stuff, , bothers me how my grinds become so dull each time, should i go with a stone cutting or a metal cutting?

Okey, i've used the search function but it all says diffrent, stone disc, metal disc, 90angle, 45degree angle, clockwise, counter clockwise so let's solve this What gives the best grind (for ex koxx bloxx) what disc should i use, how fast should i go at the rim and wich angle? i'd appreciate all help i can get since my brake slides real much right now cheers

okey, so this will not cause the disc to tweak? wich brake have you used this method on?

got some new pads and a fresh bleed for my Hope o2, but as it's on my trials bike i don't have all that much speed to fix the pads wich is the fastest and the best way to bed a disc brake? i've heard all kind of methods like pouring water and then go down a slope dragging your brake, go down a slope dragging your brake and THEN pour water on the disc, put mud on the rotor and ride down a slope wich is really the best way for my Hope o2 brake? or will the brake always lack power so i'll just have to mount a BB7 and ride with it?