joshywa

oh my god........ some one give him a medal first front flip perfomed on a trials bike EVER

linkin park - lying to you joshywa

righty oh then.... final list of names time: me scott_mad robbie_the_spastic JT the 2 steve's tricallum ding_dong any more ???

koxx is always good i heard halo's wear down very fast though (plus they weigh alot)

if its what i think your thinking of then its a "brake plate" hoffman DMR DNA simmilar to these??? if so then i'd suggest alans bmx or winstanleys bmx ..... ive only dealt with alans bmx but there a larger range on winstanleys hope thats of any help

thought i'd prove it >click me<

this might sound the most odd peice of advice but try going as slow at it as you think you can e.g. walking pace..... helps me with medium height stuff

by old skool fork i'm geussing you mean the likes of pashley forks ???

ok im deffinatley goin to get one now.... i preffer the jamie tompkinson (sp) limmeted edition version with the drilled gusset at head tube but is the geo any different ???

dont be put off by the echo the reason they snap was the support only went 5cm ish up the steerer... on the new ones it goes all the way. but for the sake of it here's what happens to the old ones: snaped just by the top cup of the headset. scarier still is the same thing had happened to a mates 3 months before honest though the new one (i'm getting on warrenty) are meant to be far stronger

thanks so far i think this is what im going to get !!! one more question ??? where's the cheapest place to buy one ? thanks again

Right people... Basically my dilemma is this... i'm looking to build up a 26" streety trials bike now i've got my mod sorted, in april i will get last years holiday pay from work (£250 give or take) so thats where its going. i can fit it out with parts of £100 hopefully so part aren't a problem, the problems are: what price should i pay ??? is this frame what i want e.g. streety feel (short bunny hopable) ??? how do they ride ??? which years edition should i get (2006 or an older one) ??? is there any odd parts that won't fit it e.g. 14mm axle hubs needed Any help would be great and any one looking to part with the frame would be better thanks joshywa

right here's some slightly better travel info: BY ROAD From South: M1/M18 or A1 to A64 From North: A1/A19 to A171 or A 170 From West: M62 to Hull, then A63/A165 (coastal route) or M62 towards Hull then A614 Howden, A163, B1249, A64 (country route) where shal we meet ????? last year we met JT on the west cliffe at the pool place so where's it going to be ???

look at the new gt i-drive... thats a gear bopx frame with one chain on one side going up to the gear box then the chain to back wheel goes on the left...... the only left side mtb hubs out are shimano gear hubs i think

dude get a palm top/pocket pc and transfer what ever files your procedure are in to it... go to pub divert calls to a cell.... when its needed use the palm top/pocket pc and tell every 1 in the pub to keep it down so no-one will know (or toilets are quite too)

right people..... this is calling out to anyone and i mean anyone who can get there me, scott-mad, robbie_the_spastic and JT confirmed so far, hopefully a few other riders from whitby might be out (work depending). We're gonna be over for 12:00 (trafic depending) till 5:00 but JT live's there so he should be out earlier you all know you wanna ride here, look see : PLUS some VERY good street spots please people you know you wanna ride here map for those who want to : if your coming from the north its the A171 (maps abit blurry) come on people

sounds almost like you've killed the threads after you've tapped it out.... try putting the tap down again to clean the threads.... might help

saw this post and it got me interested... acording to what ive found off various other forums the reason ti rotor cought on is that they warp under heat (discs give off alot of heat so thats a big no no and apparentley the ti disc absorbs heatat a rate some where between alu and steel) and the only major companies to have made them is hope and foes as far pads go id suggest (based upon the heat thing) to get sintered pads NOT resin the only pictures of ones i found we're floating rotors could you post a picture /link upto yours josh edit: all this is based on an hour or so's research so its not deffinative

the ultimate liquid i imagine would be petrol or parafin... thin as wd40 (wd40's made from parafin i belive) doesnt freeze like water and evaporates off rims if you spill any downs are bleeeding it would cost about £5 and after 10min bleading it you be high as a god damm kite plus no one knows what it would do to the seals (petrols acidic i belive) either water or maggura oil i belive are the only two options now realy but if any one reading this wants to blead their brake with water get DE IONISED WATER its what you put in car batterys and is ph neutral so now poping seals thanks to chlorine and florhine levels in tap water destroying them

if you think its a bad design please free to give any advice i mean that is the reason ive posted up new pictures... to see if its improved or not your comment is right i wasnt 100% sure how effective the design is upto now its been pureley based upon aesthetics value not function, quick question what thickness would you suggest ? at the minute its 5.5mm thick and the top section drops 2mm to 3.5mm as for dimention it stands something like: bolt spacing 112mm to 100mm slots each side (bottom to base of the arch) is 90mm arch width 90mm anymore help would be great thanks ???

some revised design's hope you like

try buying a sheet of thin (thin enough to bend around a frame) carbon fibre (ebay mabye) then cut it into the shape of a carbonique frame protector... that works for a mate of mine

it shrank in the rain so much you cant see it

heatsink konigs put into maggura backings (smashed the power pro ones) works awsome no tar smooth rim

if you want it i'll add you to msn (dont think you want to give away an address on tf) and i can can send you a copy on cd....