Zoo_Monkey

ayy good old solid edge - its only beaten by ideas in my books for eng stuff but ideas takes some getting used to and loses its edge if you are using it as a single seat. its a 1080 wheel base

meh - the choice is overrated anyway all it means is i cant run hope hubs and some other random hubs i would never use as long as it takes a profile or a scerw-on sprocket/freewheel echo or onza or something it will work a treat.

agrees - but it has its place and i can import the files straight to alias for rendering and ideas masterseries for CNC work - which is what i do most. do like solid edge though - good for sheet metal work iv found, but iv not realy used it in a profesional capacity. how so? im not realy interested in gears and the dishing on a bmx/mod wheel is better - making a stronger wheel

ist just autocad costs abit to buy but then its only a small program and quick to download if thats your kind of thing good for drafting / teck drawings etc - im not a fan if it to modle in though but precicse never the less if you are going to get some software id recoment solidedge - its realy good for metal work and has FEA stuff as standard i think - cant remember i cant find my copy anywhere and i actualy payed for it. :$

yea sorry - 26" it is - always forget to put the most important bits in my posts :$ im trying to get a nice short back end - when iv done the full 3d modle ill be able to tweek the design but as iy is im pretty sure there will be enough room on the back end - will have to see id be working on it now but i got a job interview in 50 mins scaired! more will be done thisevening me thinks

iv been wanting to design my own frame for a while - this is what iv done so far, its taken from bikes iv ridden in the past and the current stuff out there, hopefully ill get this one done over the winter. was just interested in what people think on the geo and overall look of the frame so far its going to be steel, dedicated 4bolt (i have the mounts ready to brase on ) probably horisontal dropouts and BMX/mod spacing - prob run it with a profile. http://i122.photobucket.com/albums/o269/so...steelframe1.jpg thanks for reading - sol

ran zoo pads on my D521 creamic - 0 modulation 100% power ran palsmatic spanish fly on a smooth with alittle tar - again cant fault it currently run zoo pads on a grind, just as good but works in the wet to. pads last about 2 months though - which reminds me ..... off to tartybikes

1. you can still buy it on ebay 2. you can buy it at a builders merchant - or just ask a roofer (they know it as roofing tar or its real name Bitumin) 3. you can dig it out of the road for free anywhere in britan 4. tar sucks in the wet, sucks when you get it stuck on your carpit and sucks when it makes a mess of your braking surface/pads

the stuff i posted is straight of the magura site - so i asume is right, the HS33 has more power - thats the way it was desinged you cant just say the brakes are the same but one is magicaly "better" than the other - there would be no point in magura bringing out different versions if they were the same its common knowledge that the hs33 has more power than the 11, thats just the way it is. one was designed for touring bikes - the 11. the other for xc the 33 end of

yea you have to file down the booster - or bend it up slightly but id just file it

the preasure you exert on a hydolic brake isnt proportional to the power output in the same way as cable brakes, HS33's = Piston diameter brake lever/caliper in mm: 14/2x16 HS11's = Piston diameter brake lever/caliper in mm: 16/2x24 if you then take a look at this http://science.howstuffworks.com/hydraulic1.htm you can see that the force you put on the lever has alot less to do with the force exerted on the rim by the brake, its about the ratio in surfice area from the lever piston to the caliper. its just a fact that hs33's improve your braking in trials, although alot has to do with pads/setup

whats up with the v-brakes? and a disk on the low end 20? but not on the mid range i dont geddit? like some pants nobody cairs cranks make up for the lack of decent brakes and - what new forks, look like the old ones to me...... again dont cair so its not green anymore, well whoop de do - guese nobody will be buying one this year (oh and iv just noticed you dont even get creepy crawlers anymore - just the oh-so-grippy sticky fingers)

lol - it only turned into a christmas list when i realised i couldnt aford it - got to brake the news to my girlfriend soon so she can start saving

ok i know its early but there are advent calenders in the shops and the decoration are going up in cardiff centre just spent an hour making a christmas list on tarty bikes, not that i think ill get it but Zoo fixed hub on green echo+ rim tape/build, £133 Zoo disk on green echo front+ rim tape/build , £93 Zoo 4 bolt booster, green, £30 Zoo forks, £95 New tensile free-wheel £35 Hope mono trials £140 Echo hifi stem (low) £35 Czar HS33 lever blade - black £25 74Kings TPA wheel £7 Monty hose spliter £9 Zoo bash ring, green, £25 my Pitbull = http://www.pinkbike.com/photo/701134/ anyone getting anything nice this year? - its like 11 weeks away

i destroyed my try-all bb after 2 months, bikedock sent me 2 new ones by mistake - nice of them depends if its a material defect or abuse (by abuse i mean you snaped it using it) if you do get a new one try one of these http://tartybikes.co.uk/product.php?id=2027 they are supposed to be the shnizzle got a friend who rides one - pretty smooth and strong so far, better than the try-all and my good ol truvative.