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Zoo_Monkey

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Everything posted by Zoo_Monkey

  1. ayy good old solid edge - its only beaten by ideas in my books for eng stuff but ideas takes some getting used to and loses its edge if you are using it as a single seat. its a 1080 wheel base
  2. meh - the choice is overrated anyway all it means is i cant run hope hubs and some other random hubs i would never use as long as it takes a profile or a scerw-on sprocket/freewheel echo or onza or something it will work a treat.
  3. agrees - but it has its place and i can import the files straight to alias for rendering and ideas masterseries for CNC work - which is what i do most. do like solid edge though - good for sheet metal work iv found, but iv not realy used it in a profesional capacity. how so? im not realy interested in gears and the dishing on a bmx/mod wheel is better - making a stronger wheel
  4. ist just autocad costs abit to buy but then its only a small program and quick to download if thats your kind of thing good for drafting / teck drawings etc - im not a fan if it to modle in though but precicse never the less if you are going to get some software id recoment solidedge - its realy good for metal work and has FEA stuff as standard i think - cant remember i cant find my copy anywhere and i actualy payed for it. :$
  5. yea sorry - 26" it is - always forget to put the most important bits in my posts :$ im trying to get a nice short back end - when iv done the full 3d modle ill be able to tweek the design but as iy is im pretty sure there will be enough room on the back end - will have to see id be working on it now but i got a job interview in 50 mins scaired! more will be done thisevening me thinks
  6. iv been wanting to design my own frame for a while - this is what iv done so far, its taken from bikes iv ridden in the past and the current stuff out there, hopefully ill get this one done over the winter. was just interested in what people think on the geo and overall look of the frame so far its going to be steel, dedicated 4bolt (i have the mounts ready to brase on ) probably horisontal dropouts and BMX/mod spacing - prob run it with a profile. http://i122.photobucket.com/albums/o269/so...steelframe1.jpg thanks for reading - sol
  7. ran zoo pads on my D521 creamic - 0 modulation 100% power ran palsmatic spanish fly on a smooth with alittle tar - again cant fault it currently run zoo pads on a grind, just as good but works in the wet to. pads last about 2 months though - which reminds me ..... off to tartybikes
  8. 1. you can still buy it on ebay 2. you can buy it at a builders merchant - or just ask a roofer (they know it as roofing tar or its real name Bitumin) 3. you can dig it out of the road for free anywhere in britan 4. tar sucks in the wet, sucks when you get it stuck on your carpit and sucks when it makes a mess of your braking surface/pads
  9. the stuff i posted is straight of the magura site - so i asume is right, the HS33 has more power - thats the way it was desinged you cant just say the brakes are the same but one is magicaly "better" than the other - there would be no point in magura bringing out different versions if they were the same its common knowledge that the hs33 has more power than the 11, thats just the way it is. one was designed for touring bikes - the 11. the other for xc the 33 end of
  10. yea you have to file down the booster - or bend it up slightly but id just file it
  11. the preasure you exert on a hydolic brake isnt proportional to the power output in the same way as cable brakes, HS33's = Piston diameter brake lever/caliper in mm: 14/2x16 HS11's = Piston diameter brake lever/caliper in mm: 16/2x24 if you then take a look at this http://science.howstuffworks.com/hydraulic1.htm you can see that the force you put on the lever has alot less to do with the force exerted on the rim by the brake, its about the ratio in surfice area from the lever piston to the caliper. its just a fact that hs33's improve your braking in trials, although alot has to do with pads/setup
  12. whats up with the v-brakes? and a disk on the low end 20? but not on the mid range i dont geddit? like some pants nobody cairs cranks make up for the lack of decent brakes and - what new forks, look like the old ones to me...... again dont cair so its not green anymore, well whoop de do - guese nobody will be buying one this year (oh and iv just noticed you dont even get creepy crawlers anymore - just the oh-so-grippy sticky fingers)
  13. lol - it only turned into a christmas list when i realised i couldnt aford it - got to brake the news to my girlfriend soon so she can start saving
  14. ok i know its early but there are advent calenders in the shops and the decoration are going up in cardiff centre just spent an hour making a christmas list on tarty bikes, not that i think ill get it but Zoo fixed hub on green echo+ rim tape/build, £133 Zoo disk on green echo front+ rim tape/build , £93 Zoo 4 bolt booster, green, £30 Zoo forks, £95 New tensile free-wheel £35 Hope mono trials £140 Echo hifi stem (low) £35 Czar HS33 lever blade - black £25 74Kings TPA wheel £7 Monty hose spliter £9 Zoo bash ring, green, £25 my Pitbull = http://www.pinkbike.com/photo/701134/ anyone getting anything nice this year? - its like 11 weeks away
  15. Zoo_Monkey

    Koxx Bb?

    i destroyed my try-all bb after 2 months, bikedock sent me 2 new ones by mistake - nice of them depends if its a material defect or abuse (by abuse i mean you snaped it using it) if you do get a new one try one of these http://tartybikes.co.uk/product.php?id=2027 they are supposed to be the shnizzle got a friend who rides one - pretty smooth and strong so far, better than the try-all and my good ol truvative.
  16. congratulations, new fork time - what you gona get?
  17. you might get away with it if its still pretty new, where id you get it? the 05 ones were prone to craking just above the brake mounts on the seat-stays.
  18. onza hog are pretty strong, koxx are good to but have thinner side walls - depends if you grind them see if i had a new set of rims it would be echo 07 jobbies, probably in green but that makes no difference to the strength im told. iv yet to kill a d521 but they are abit old school and not to stable in comparison the the new oober wide rims avalable to be honest how long a rim lasts depends on the rider if you are a 15 stone beast and ride like a cast iron cow you will probably be hard pushed to find a rim to last you afew months on the otherhand if you are a stick parading as a trials rider it takes alot of abuse to kill any rims.
  19. i ride with my hebo's in winter - no problem in fact i just dug them out. start using them now so im used to it when i have to i use my snowboarding bas layers in the winter if its way nippy, keep you warm and no sweaty-ness as they breath, a tshirt over the top or a hoodie if its sub zero! buff for your face and a wind proof jacket like the raceface ones, or my animal camo one also you can get glove base layers if you need them all you need worry about then is ice
  20. atleast they didnt call it "BMX Tricks" thats the difference between BBC and ITV, ITV atleast do some reaserch before running there mouth off anyway enough of old news - it would be great to see it in the olympics, but it would prob piss people of and have overly anal rules about gears/bash guards etc... also - you could be drug tested!
  21. ok - i have an 04 pitbull (long) which currently has 1. 130mm x 30° Echo hifi stem and a 5mm spacer 2. and echo urban forks - with the forward sweep i recon - although im not sure this is messing up the geometry of the bike. alot of people have said im to low when im on the back wheel - and should be up higher on the bike? is this the geometry or am i just being crap again? :$ i have a zoo stem about the house, was thinking of chucking this on instead - not sure about spacers though? (oh and if it matters im 6foot) any ideas on the matter?
  22. not to sound patronising as you apear to know what you are doing but that sounds like classic cross threading, make sure the bb is 100% straight when you put it in, it helps to have the bike upside down and stand over it checking the axle is 90 to the frame. also - are you fitting it the correct way round? usualy the fixed cup goes on the drive side. this could have an effect. if you want to check the thread is clean on the bb shell and the bb cups get a wire brush spray on some gt85 and scrub - but follow the direction of the tread or you could mess it big time. fianaly use LOTS of lube- sereously you need to chuck tons of it in there - and real stuff not just gt85. bbs can be tight to fit and take a bit of strength, if its tough to turn thats ok as long as it dosnt get progresivley tougher (thats cross threading ) if all else fails get the thread on the bb shell re-tapped and faced by your local bike shop - or better still pay them money to take the whole bb fitting job off your hands. edit = (oh and all bb threads are standard, so that wont be the prob)
  23. thanks - that actualy makes alot of sence. ill give it a try - i apreciate you writing the lenghty post to, esp as its getting late thanks for all the encouragement.
  24. meths, or any solvent then some citrus de-greaser washed of with lots of water
  25. a mate of mine go the - "oh mate leme have a go on your bike" line from some chavy 15year old not to long back. so he smiles and says only if you let me bunny hop over you so after afew seconds the kid agrees and lies down in the middle of the road and we ride off funniest thing iv ever seen - took him afew mins of lying there like a fool to realise we wernt comming back
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