Greetings

Whichever square taper you choose, it's not going to be as strong or as good as an ISIS system. Your taper will round off on the cranks and sooner or later the axle will snap. It's happened to most of us I think. As far as I know all those bb's are just OEM products. Personally I'd trust Trialtech's choice of BB and go for that.

Monty brake spray is ridiculously powerful, it's odd you should experience a loss in braking performance. It's a great product for comps when it's raining or if you're adamant about riding in the rain. However, there's a cheaper way though not as easy to use - rosin + nitro. It's the same thing basically but you apply it with a rag rather than spray.

That's true in my case. Like the original a lot, this just wasn't my cup of tea.

Weight fight! My Pure is 8,5kg with a Maxxis Freeride tube on the rear, a steel bb, TR cranks and King setup. Anyway, love that bike. There's something beautiful about such simple frames, they just look like they want to be ridden hard

Top 5 body products I couldn't live without in order: 1. Deodorant 2. Shower gel 3. Shampoo 4. Hair spray 5. Toothpaste

That's fairly light for something which proved to be virtually indestructable.

You're quite the character aren'y you.

Lean further back when you preload than you would with a normal sidehop and don't lower your front wheel that much. Jump directly upwards. Another thing is learning to rotate slightly, that comes with practice.

As above, face your brake mounts. If you're running a rim which doesn't have paralell sidewalls like TryAll or Trialtech, you'll need to wait till the pads wear down at an angle. This is best done with a harsh rim grind, but with a hard pad compound it can take quite a while for the pads to adjust. Either way, the TR system is the future. Results in a much stiffer brake lever.

That's worth pointing out for others, it's an often overlooked aspect of setting brakes up and can work wonders. The main reason why pads round off is because they move about in the caliper. To put it short, depending on which direction you're braking, half the pad is doing it's job, whereas the other half isn't producing much braking power. Because of this twist, the pads don't wear down square. There's a number of factors which cause the pads to move around but the main one is that the contact area between the piston and backing is very small. Another can be the tolerances between the pad guides on the caliper and the backings although tight tolerances just cause the brake to be less responsive under load. If you're having excessive problems with uneven wear I'd check the backings, the piston for play and the overall condition of the piston.

Loved that bunnyhop on the mod.

Wasn't the easiest job but managed to get it set up in a satisfying way. Definitely hides the hoses nicely so they're more difficult to hit.

Never mind.

I've been saying this ever since installing some LGM's on my bike - why on earth would you want anything else? I can't imagine brake pads can get any better.

Never mind.

Nice bike but I really don't understand why people feel the need to drill frames and other parts. I'd understand it if the bike weighed 7,5kg because that's light for a stock but 8,1kg can easily be accomplished using normal parts. Anyway, it's your bike not mine

I kind of agree and disagree with that. Personally I think it looks smoother when you go a bit higher - exactly the height of the obstacle so you kind of manual into it (if going to rear wheel). Usually going "as high as you need" would mean your rear wheel will be a bit lower than the edge of the wall. Also some nice touches - when you're gapping lock the rear brake just before you land. With rolling moves perhaps hit the brake just after you've landed which could mean you're going to execute a tiny manual. If you're doing a gap to front wheel or anything where you have a lot of momentum, don't use the brakes too much and slide onto the obstacle. Either way I don't think one can practice smoothness. It's something you learn with time although a lot more quickly if you're aware of it.

Another reason they can't give stuff away is that they'd have to pay income tax. There's so much idiocy in the world.

The aluminium bits would look great in gunsmoke. Great work so far, looking forward to updates.

That's puzzling. Does that mean that the steerer is butted or strengthened up to a height of 110mm? One would think that the longer the head tube the better? This fork really interests me, wouldn't mind getting one after the season is over.

I think he finds these frames ugly. Could be wrong though.

Even though it's 3 months I can't see them being replaced if they crack. You'll probably be accused of badly timed riding or using them on a trials bike. Not being cynical, just saying - TryAll's warranty isn't exactly brilliant.

Yeah they are very nice, I'm tempted to try out the short stock. Shame about the bb rise being mad. Only thing I'm not quite fond of is the graphics - red graphics on orange and brownish-green graphics on black? Seriously... Neon seem to be really good with styling but they've missed a beat here.

The old Echo/GU/Czar/Zoo were nothing like the quality you get from "modern" Echo frames. They were riddled with production faults. What I think Echo has done with the so called SL frames is gathered information about the durability and weak points of the standard frames and found areas where they can shed off weight. After all the frames are pretty much identical in every way, it's very clear when you stand them side by side. I really don't know why you're so fussy, there's no law saying you have to buy one of these frames so just don't if you hate them so much?

Yeah it does look pretty messy. Sounds like it's more serious than they initially said it was.