Greetings

This thread is made of win.

Couldn't find a streaming vid but for years now this has been a textbook example of how to ride a mod for me. Well worth the download.

I'll drop in for a day or two, checked the maps and it seems it's only a 20km drive from where I'll be staying and riding at that time. I guess I could take a few riders over to Poland for an hour or two, there's some pretty good natural spots just beyond the border. edit: What's the fallen trials rider contest? Is it aimed at riders who have been riding for like 10 years and are stil absolutely rubbish at the sport?

Just given the TR mounts a little measuring and found that if you file down the slots, you should be able to get an extra 2mm of adjustment. This is without having to remove any material from the oval bit which holds the slave in position.

How can this be a rip off if it was conceived over 1,5 years ago?

So what did you do exactly?

I wouldn't be too sure about that, they have been undergoing extensive testing for the last half a year or so. It's possibly the first time Echo are actually testing their products properly.

It's going to be out in a few weeks.

I've been able to build my own wheels for years now but have never really mastered the skill to such a level as to actually build them for customers. Therefore, I'm interested in how difficult or maybe how much skill is required to build a proper trials wheel which won't fall apart after one day of riding. I know it's difficult to quantify skill but perhaps some of you who build wheels professionally could give me some idea? I'm guessing that the main problem here is getting the spoke tensions right so the wheel stays true throughout it's lifetime. The wheels i build for myself seem to be ok only for a few weeks.

Shit that looked bad!

Perhaps they have had this problem. I did and learned my lesson, accepting that it was my fault and not going off blaming the pads on a forum. Now I just don't brake when going downhill or if I do need to slow down, I lock and release the rear wheel quickly. When the hills are too long or too steep, I walk down. Prolonged braking will not only damage the pads but also wear down a grind. It's just a waste of both pads and rims. Perhaps there is something wrong with these pads, perhaps they shouldn't have worn that much but the fact of the matter is that massive wear is not unusual in such circumstances.

Two things - a grippy compount will stick to the rim. It's true that the Echo pads stick rather more than other ones but that's not a bad thing. It's bound to wear off when the pads bed in anyway. As for "i would like to think they last longer than going down one hill" - these pads (and generally trials pads) are not desgined for going down hills, even small ones. 10 second braking is a lot. I'm surprised that the pads didn't wear down right to the backings during that period of time. I doubt anyone in here is defending the pads, they're just pointing out that what your friend did has f**ked them. It'd have been the same case with most other trials pads. What you're saying is similar to saying that you'd expect a road bike with those 18 spoke wheels to last at least one 6ft drop.

Well isn't that to be expected? The last thing you want to do with a trials bike is apply continuous braking force while riding fast. I gave these pads a try on a customers bike the other day and was amazed at their performance. They literally stuck to the rim as if it was coated with tar. So, I wouldn't blame the pads. Your friend ruined them by heating the brakes up. These pads aren't designed to stop you from speed.

Goor diding and a good video overall

Ok then, WD40 lasted around 20 minutes before the brakes became lazy again. Going to try GT85 tomorrow.

You... Height: 178 Weight: 70 Style: Natural-ish. Your Bike... Type: stock Weight: 8.8 Frame: 680mm, 1080mm / 383mm / +40mm / 72* / 110mm Forks: 405/35 Headset: std Stackers: 0 Stem: 138x25 Bars: Echo SL, don't know the geo - similar to Trialtechs Cranks: 158mm BB: 128mm

According to the can, WD40 doesn't contain silicone. So perhaps that's the difference between the two. Used WD40 because that's the only thing I had. Brake works superbly now, hope it lasts though!

Yeah that's what I thought. I used to use silicone grease but found that it accumulates vast amounts of dirt hence, ironically, limiting the movement of pistons. Been using water on mine for a good 3 years now. Their performance over the years has degraded significantly compared to new oil bled HS33's which came in the post the other day. edit: is GT85 any different to WD40?

As the title says, can one use WD40 on lazy Magura slaves? Mine seem to be ok when it's cool but as soon as a hot day comes they seize. Any other ideas? I'm running water.

Good video, very good riding and shots.

I'm finding it hard to believe that some of the vids in here were in fact the first ever. This was my first vid, I didn't know any trials riders or bikers yet: Vimeo Video -> Original Video Yeah, it's piss poor!

They've managed to make an ordinary fork look expensive and cool. I like that.

I liked that, until that Volvo drove past it did look like the 50's.

Been having similar problems with a RQ not fitting a GU, decided to change the frame. It was the only solution. If you were running a freehub, you could experiment with a wide variety of cog sizes which wouldn't change the gear ratio but change the CS length. Here's an idea, you might want to upgrade to a Pro2 or something? That would have worked with me but I refused to run a chain tensioner so my movements were VERY limited taking into account the vertical dropouts on GUs. As for chain stretch I had a KMC 810 which stretched over half a link. However, it's usually more like a quarter. With that chain I had perfect tension using an 18:18 gear ratio on an old A1 (372mm CS), then changed to 18:17 and a new chain and I could barely get the wheel into the dropouts. Oh and correct me if I'm wrong but aren't KHE Collapse chains a little shorter than K810's?

Where did you find that information?