Greetings

Yep, they are absolutely amazing, especially when they're new. In a week or two you'll notice an insignificant drop in performance. The best thing about them is that if you have a clean rim, these pads will work wonderfully even in rain.

I've done freeride, trials, downhill and street in my life, and no bicycle sport gave me such a rush as freeride/downhill (it's fairly similar until you start treating it seriously and racing against time). I hated having to walk up hills all the time and soon got bored of the spots i was riding over and over again so went over to street. But if there were mountains around me and a good way of getting up them without using ones own muscles, I'd still be a freerider.

Kieldp (if i've got the username right) is the Australian Zhi distributor

I'd disagree with it being a dying sport... but the statement above seems to be true, that's why we have so many kids doing these stupid drop-gaps. Surely freeride would be the better alternative for such people?

Monty Ti hubs are 106mm and the Ti frames are 106mm (snail cams go on the outside). Pr frames have 110mm hub spacing and you can use all normal hubs in those frames but the snail cams need to go on the outside 116mm is the hub spacing for frames that use snail cams on the inside and 110mm hubs.

Such a nice car, hope it's found!

Couple of video stills on the Control. Sidehop Tap Tap to short manual

watered down coke / grapefruit juice / typhoo tea / tyskie beer / dry wine / (don't drink anything stronger)

36h hub on a 32h rim isn't dodgy at all. It's the other way round that's more of a problem. I'm shit at explaining things so lets say you've numbered the holes in each flange 1-18. Miss out holes 1 and 10 in the first flange, and 5 and 14 in the other.

haha i think i only have 4 badgers so far Kuel indeed it'd be better to have one adaptor, but i primarily had a 180mm rotor, then found this adapor lying around and thought i'd put an 8" rotor on gear ratio is 18:17

Wasn't expecting such a statement from you Mark (unless i misunderstood you), Koxx was the first to introduce a frame with loads of CNC - the XTP. I'm pretty sure it was introduced in 2004, had double CNC'd chainstay yokes, CNC'd dropouts and a CNC head tube which Deng copied from Koxx and not the other way round. At that time, I don't think Deng used any CNC in his frames. And again Koxx was the first to introduce CNC'd hubs which cost an absolute fortune back then. Deng copies everything around him - look at the old Czar frames, 48EP freehubs, or the Echo brake, or even the Coustellier St. Blaise which almost ended up with him getting sued. Deng just made CNC popular, it's not like he was the first to think of using that technology. On the other hand, he was probably one of the first to use Hydroforming. And finally, if I were to choose between 1 free Koxx or 3 free Deng bikes, I'd choose a Koxx. Whoever has ridden one of their fairly new designs (not thinking of the 1100 levelboss ) will agree that they are one of the best riding bikes no matter what geometry they have. You can actually feel their bikes have character and aren't just a big chunk of aluminum and rubber. That's right, I'm not a fan of Deng bikes, even though I've had well over 10 of his frames. All the i-sidehop-most-of-the-time 15 year old mod riders - feel free to slate me for that statement, i don't care.

yeah, like two 8" bb7's - that would definitely have enough stopping power on a mod

yeah i can imagine that would be a serious issue with such a setup maybe two hope trials and a magura lever would work (would be weaker than a normal brake but not spongy) could always use a very long hose and have a friend of yours operate the front brake we tried doing that with a rear brake about 3 years ago with a mate and it worked, was pretty fun and really challenging!

Can't believe that show is still going I remember it from 1994, loved it

I rode one with a high rise BT stem and ViZ bars. It was a really nice bike but due to how high the bars were, only for tall riders.

That's not the oldest one of him I've seen. There's one where he's riding a 20" Monty and rides it quite badly The level of riding in the vid you posted is pretty damn impressive even for todays standards.

Thanks to the owner of trials.pl i have been given the chance to ride a Control L for a couple of days. This will allow me to fine-tune the geometry of my Triton before Dimitri gets down to making it. Still haven't given the Echo a ride, it's been pissing down all day today Feels pretty good though, it'll definitely be a good bike to ride. Before: After: Edit: Measured the CS of this frame, turns out it's identical to the Adamant (372mm) so I'm on my old gearing now with perfect chain tension

I agree, they're really good for gaps to front, but they're no good for wheelswaps in my opinion. It's just so much easier to wheelswap on a low bb bike. I remember changing from an Echo Pure 04 which actually had a bb drop to an Adamant 06, and it really took me ages to learn to wheelswap smoothly (as in to manual onto the obstacle and not just leave the rear wheel hanging off the edge).

I agree, besides the fact it looks crap, i find it much more impressive when somebody can sidehop a stock very high and not tuck. It just shows the guy actually has some power... I mean more than half of the people who posted pics up in this thread probably couldn't even sidehop 6 pallets without tucking along the side of the bike. It might allow you to go bigger but frankly speaking i don't think trials is about going big.

How's the Hope working in that position? I didn't know you cold use a lever upside down in open systems. Very nice bike though, uncontaminated by strong colours which can only be good edit: have you thought of connecting your front and rear brake to the maggie lever using a hose splitter? much easier than that complicated lever you were designing a couple of months ago. The only thing that might complicate matters is that Hopes use DOT and Maguras must not be bled with it.

Definitely pinch gap instead of launching a foot from the edge of the obstacle. Secondly I find it much easier to gap straight ahead (not at an angle) and not lock the front wheel. It keeps your momentum and allows you to stay on the obstacle. It's obviously not the case when you're gapping onto something narrow. As far as geometry goes, high-bb bikes are really crap for wheelswaps and gaps in general so i wouldn't say your Control has inadequate geometry for these kinds of moves.

Fair play, very unusual gearing wasn't expecting that

That was definitely one of the best made / most inspiring / fun videos i've seen in a long long time. You're incredibly good at what you're doing John, the camera work is amazing and so is the editing. Thanks for that, made my evening. By the way, what wide angle conversion lens are you using?

I'm more impressed with the fact you ride 18:17 gearing. Finally somebody as sensible as me edit: do you need that tensioner? i'm running that gearing without any chain tensioner on 372mm chainstays... to retain that tension with an extra link, you'd need ~384.5mm chainstays which is 0.5mm short of the Czar. Surely you could grind a tiny bit off the dropouts and chuck the tensioner out? Chain stretch doesn't seem to be an issue at all, had the same KMC for many months and it's still perfect.

i don't think that frame is made of aluminum, read/heard about it somewhere in the past