Greetings

They need to be sledgehammer proof and that won't help either since I'll just find something else to treat it with. I'm really not looking for a new printer, it's just a waste of money. My temper is way too short.

Thanks Matt but I don't print enough to justify such use. Monthly use is 50-100 labels (smaller than A5 even) + no more than 200 pages of documents. I guess this solution would be good for large uses of 2k+ ? Didn't know about this though, thanks for the info!

Wrapping will be a lot better than paint, especially on fibreglass. My FG bonnet looked brilliant when it was new and just painted, you could hardly tell it was FG. But now after it's had some use the paint is cracked all over the place, I think it's the gel coat that's giving up. With a wrap this would not show and the wear of the bonnet would actually be slower too since wrap has a solid structure that could work as a retainer for what's underneath.

Just 3, I've found that the best way is to use someone else's printer. That way you respect it more than if it was your own I think Tarty Adam is also a printer murderer?

Yeah, that's what will have to be done unfortunately. Used some wet and dry on it today and got through to the primer.

May I just take this opportunity to say that there is no such thing as a good printer (device). They're all utter pieces of crap designed to make your life more miserable than it already is. So your idea of commissioning this is a good one, you'll survive but you'll have blood on your hands because someone is going to commit suicide before he gets the job done.

I wasn't, but I can see why it looks ridiculous It was the best I could find to protect the quarter panel against crap and rain. It didn't work though.

It's the best I could do

Me and my dad have started painting the M3 today, and just as the first coat of clear was on, we had a storm. The amount of crap that is now on that coat is unreal. So I'm guessing very fine wet and dry tomorrow to remove the seeds and fluff and place the clear coat again? This isn't acrylic paint, not sure what it's called in english. Just normal colour + transparent. The repairs aren't perfect and there's still a few panels to fix but this is after all a competition car so it's more than adequate. And so far has only cost me 60 quid + quite a lot of fun. Also ordered AST 5100 suspension.

That 126p I posted earlier has probably become the most expensive 126 in history: http://allegro.pl/fiat-126p-1979r-fabrycznie-nowy-101km-maluch-i3267412169.html Current price is 50g... The guy bought it for 2, cleaned it up and put it up for sale.

Did most of that, it was in the air for 24 hours but not on a rack. Anyway, I decided to use the method described in the recipe above, followed it to the dot and it worked like a charm. Best steak I've ever had (by a long shot) and I eat steaks every time I'm in a restaurant which has them in the menu. Only improvisation was some garlic butter.

We trials riders are a strange bunch. To cover that distance in order to ride almost the same obstacles we have nearby But in all seriousness, I'm very envious. Pretty much my only trials dream is to go to China and ride there.

TA guys Going to use this recipe, can't wait! http://www.epicurious.com/recipes/food/views/Tuscan-Porterhouse-Steak-with-Red-Wine-Peppercorn-Jus-388552 Presumably this would be like using an oven but quicker and easier?

Basically I'm looking for a good recipe for a juicy beef steak. I haven't been able to find the right one for me yet, everything I come up with is almost right but missing something. Ingredients I want to use are red wine, green pepper and garlic. Obviously this doesn't have to be all, but those are the basic flavours I want. Anyone? Also, since I'll be preparing it myself, I need some advice on what to look out for. I used to prepare these last year and distinctly remember it being very difficult to fry the meat correctly so that it remains juicy and soft but with a nicely fried outer layer.

Refuse to post naughty pictures and then post them. Problem solved.

Repost? Seems like one of the biggest fails ever. https://www.facebook.com/photo.php?v=377626395691751&set=vb.176393739166913

You wouldn't post pics so shush

No way man, this is Trials Forum

Gf dyed her hair yesterday, looks absolutely epic now.

You certainly know your shit Your initial explanation about preload/ride height goes slightly against what I assumed by trying to work it out logically but on second thought it makes sense to me. So as long as the spring stays preloaded, there will be no difference between reducing spring preload by say 1" and dropping the car by 1" without touching spring preload? This is the only part I don't understand. Can you explain the difference between roll centre and the centre of gravity? I'll be looking into some proper suspension later this year, maybe in the winter so long as my current dampers don't fall apart (SO happy I managed to get hold of some springs because it was looking pretty bleak for a moment!). I'm sure Ohlins or any other high-end manufacturer will be able to work out the spring rates based on the load of each wheel and the application of the vehicle.

Cheers! I'm not sure how much negative travel the car has now, it's going to be around 4-5cm at least, I specifically set it up to have as much travel as possible. Just wondered whether it wasn't too much. The car rolls way too much in my opinion, especially considering it as very thick ARB's set at the hardest setting. I don't think I'm reaching the end of my travel through roll, so presumably my idea won't work? With my current suspension I can increase front spring preload which should give a stiffer rate, and at the same time drop the car so the ride height is not effected. Wouldn't that help? I need new rear springs, going to go with harder ones this time. Current ones were 90N/mm, now I think they're at most 80N/mm. Getting 110N/mm. I think my rolling could partly have something to do with completely shot rear springs. Also, with stiffer ones, I could drop the car on the rear by at least 30mm which would address your point of lowering the centre of gravity.

Something for Revolver - a brand new 126p http://allegro.pl/fiat-126p-1979r-fabrycznie-nowy-101km-maluch-i3267412169.html Suspension question. Really need to get mine in order since whatever I buy will take a few months to manufacture. I need to reduce body roll, will reducing the travel of the suspension help? I'm guessing that with around 5cm negative travel the car will roll more than with 2cm?

Just a few pics. Currently working on getting the car back into shape. It looks like crap, so many things are falling off it's unreal. Suspension is almost dead too which is annoying since I can't afford to spend 3 grand on an upgrade yet. Been trying to source some rear springs but with no luck. AST seems to be the cheapest option currently but there's plenty of cars running this, we would like to give Proflex, Ohlins or Reiger a try.

Local Gentleman remake. Love the detail like Samara Morgan behind the window at 1:52.