ogre

yeah but not having that merk off rotor takes some weight off the back wheel and i made a tap i couldn't do before (dunno if thats just psychological but either way i'm a happy beefcake bunny)

after prowling tarty urbans do vee mounts, annd urbans are a prety decent balance of light/strong/cheap infact there prety f**king sweet, didn't damon watson rock them with a vee for a while?

what stock forks offer a vee mount though? (4 bolt to vee adapters are shit vees arent )

tyre lube

contrary to popular beleif, it doesnt turn you into Ali C, or make you spinny or streety + stuff other than that, really good, not as much forward hold as a magura, but LOADS of hold if the wheel tries to move backwards it was even quite good with the stock rim wrangler pads (albeit very quiet) since i got the heatsinks its become very aggressive and grabby plus i've really grown to like the feel of cable brakes over maguras, riding bikes with mags quickly cramps up my hands

put on a suit, throw talc over it, world trade centre employee...

just fired on a new back tyre are the lube has got on my rim, only ground it 2 rides ago so whats the best way to get my sidewalls clean please?

simtra frame urban forks king 'ed set hope pro2 hubs. echo urban on the back, tryall on the front (soon to be a trialtech square 'ole one) minion rear tyre, specialized eskar on the front middleburns with cloud9 bash sd7 vee brake, heatsink yeller pads, 185bb7 on the front you can probably work out the rest. looks nice but rides shit apparently

if you ran a smaller sprocket next to your current sprocket and used a tryall/atomz/tensile tentionor, you could change the gears with minimal faffing, i've toyed with the idea a few times (biking 7 miles home on a trial bike ftl) but it'd be no good for your chainline and putting alot of hammer through the bent chain is probably bad, or if your lucky you can misalign the tentioner to sit the chain between the sprockets and you can free-coast, stamping on your pedals usually pulls the chain back onto the sprocket (my f**ked up old rohloff could do this, and 6 times out of 10, work every time...)

to be fair the spokes usually go into the rotational direction...

on behalf of my freind: cos u reply to this saying that im also from eastbourne and we should meet up my email guy_mcall@hotmail.com

just a point in favour of cables not adjusting to pad wear, with a disc brake, pads wear down so slowly it doesn't really make much difference, and with a sd7 and bb7 setup you have 5 points of adjustment so it's prety fun to really dial in the right feel, and i've nocked levers with pad adjustment and lost the prevous feel after i've reset the caliper, bad-times.

i rate bb7s really well

lol pics?

i've riden dual disc for the last 18 months. avid bb7s f+r. awesome setup, but now i've moved to a rear vee, i prefer cable massively over hydraulic, a new set of cables every 4-5 months makes it feel like brand new, bb7s are very fun to tinker with so you can get your ideal lever feel. couldnt fault the brake, lots of hold, sometimes it would give if i landed a bit to low down a wall (vees dont do this, part of why i switched ) its up to you and your wallet. either setup can be great and disc pads last forever...

theres an adapter that comes with any decent extractor, your best spending a bit more to make sure you get an isis and square taper fitting one so you don't have to buy 2ce

save your pocketmoney for a few weeks and go isis and get a longer bb?

surely mp3 players are the best inventions, there are better peices of kit out there... mine'd be my phone, mp3, internets plus phone stuff = win

depends on the paint, how thick it is, and how good the paint is (i'd imagine more expensive paint will resist longer etc) EDIT: nitromorse! not caustic soda, caustic soda will eat anodising...

marino custom?

shutup, i ride 7 miles to the station on my bike usually do it in 40-45 minutes it's not the easiest, but if you get your tyres pumped up hard and your hubs roll right then your fine.

pallets (x2), video camera, someone better at gapping that you, tape measure. film your gapping technique, film the person better than you (helps if you both ride the same wheel size bike, the technique for mods and stocks looks different) move the pallets further out each time, set yourself a target, it makes a difference when you see someone doing something you can't do, then you know it's possible get them to watch what your doing, experiment with tyre pressures, and look how some of the big riders do it (damon watson, tra, etc)

just to help anyone looking at buying a pair o heatsink vees, i got some last week, i can't get over how good they are! they're loud and grabby with so much hold! i was tapping a wall that my disc brake (200mm bb7) would slip out backwards on me, these blocks gave a honk and held it there well impresed! i'm 16 stone so they really get tested when i'm riding

Caustic soda? anodising is much tougher than paint, but be cautious with it and don't leave it for a few hours. you can get it from homebase and other diy shops