ogre

it's just an internal headset? theres on on tarty for £10...

is is a BB which has a tool fitting bit like the one on this or like the shell you can see on the picture

just gunna suggest running a rear freewheel, and using a 22-18 gearing, if you ran a tryall freewheel you'd effectively have 132 engagements. mm clicky...

i just want my bike to work after spending like 200 quid on a new drivetrain for summer

the bb doesn't give enough clearance for my new set up. and it wobbles cause of the lack of spacer. it needs to be replaced. luke i know how to unscrew a bottom bracket if you read the first f**king post you'd realise i can't actually use the tool to remove it. and i'm not filing it cause i might send it back if it's useless.

rc helis are nothing shy of absolute bastards to learn...

even canadians dont get sarcasm...

Hey everyone i have an SKF 300 bb, the driveside tool interface has sheared off The axle on the non drive side, protudes to far, so my tool (the one from the tarty site that says it should fit) cannot even undo the non drive side cup. so suggestions, non powertool related first please, i do not need this BB to work after removal, i have a new BB waiting.

mike are you going FFW or rear free wheel? (profile hubs get pwned if you run a 26" rim on them)

f**king stoners serious note, where these 116 or 135 spaced frames?

don't buy a koxx, get an onza pro, then you can upgrade the f**k out of it when your midlife crisis kicks in

i put a drop of cheap wilco's bike lube down each nipple, i've nt had a stiff spoke with any of my wheels doesn't really matter with trials cause you should be replacing the rims+spokes far more frequently than roadiers and mtbers...

good pads last months and months, even on a grind, but if you run something really soft it'll be fine, you only loose pad material if you drag your brake, most of your riding will cause you simply lock your rear wheel in place, just stay away from manuals and hills any pad will last ages! Learn to maintain the bike yourself? if something dies when your out riding he's not gunna be there to bail you out It seems most rider's parents don't understand the rim grinding thing, you'll realise that when you grind a rim, it takes away f**k all material etc. do a search or something, find the video guide and just do it...

wear gloves...

what about the guy who welded a monty and an echo lite together with rear sus i bet taps feel quite nice with bouncy forks. i can't see the forks being to bad, i mean stock headtubes don't rip out or crack when they have longer forks and a bigger front wheel to do moar damage...

lmao, i'm still tempted by a marino, there well cheap, if you were thinking about a ti custom or anything, it'd be well worth getting a mock up made out of steel first. i don't see why everyones bitching, if any other member post a picture of a part thats been destroyed you'd be like oh my god BEAST and not giving the company a 2nd thought.

don't be a pussy, ride higher anyway/learn somethign new?

your best waiting till your validated and snapping up some bargains in f/s

sidehop and chain snapping machine...

fixed hubs are all good, might want to get a deng one if you run a deng frame cause of the spacing; i found hubs like the onza pro series axles' were to skinny to stay in place in my frame, meh. go with whatever you can afford... quality and brands are only a concern with freehubs...

tra in high def, shows the arc technique brilliantly

'pants, and i beleive the fish, have seen it on w/c pm if your curious

do i get points for having mine peirced?

disc mounts? please

probably alot stronger than the carbons, and they have a warrenty = win