ogre

other than the no-good-if-you-like-pro2 arguament why couldn't you have the inner gubbins of the freewheel machined into the crank arm itself? so you fit pawls and springs and then the outer ring onto the arm... would it provide you with more room for extra pawls/bearings etc. i'm imaginging this as modular with all the parts vailable...

the mongooses are f**king horrible to (except the bmxes they look alright actually)

stuff has been sent off for anodizing, huzah for ghetto courier services that bank holidays

got a load of stuff packaged for anodizing, fixie is getting some love and the trials bike too

wounded. did you own it from new? is it warrentyable?

why wasn't this a thing when i first moved out that way... massive excitement for this

that picture isn't even riding G

vees can be good, but they take fannying around with, a bb7 will just work out the box...

guna mass up after uni, start impersonating him...

Dan chandler on how he likes to take his dicks...

i'm bumping this because i'm daniel bryan:

actually think i'll do ok in my exam tomorow

super light, indestructible and can save your ffw some suffering.... wrote enough thought i'd dump it in here. get a few spokes, ideally as long as possible (roady length ***) This doesn't work for pro2s, or other freehubs, you want a normal fixed hub so the spoke doesn't use it's length wrapping round the freehub and theres not enough room between the frame and hub to really fit it in there nicely find somewhere on the frame to hook the spoke. so it sits above your hub; make a 'hook' with the spoke (use "J" end, the extra flat bit will help hook the spoke) ideally find a hole in the dropout or hook it into the join where your chain and seat stays meet. then wrap it over and around your hub. get it as tight as you can, and as close the the frame as possible so it can't catch between the chain and sprocket. it should then be aiming back towards your cranks/bb. at this point i have ziptied the lower part of the spoke to the frame, leaving the top half free from the ziptie (so i can unhook the tensioner if the wheel has to come out) bend the spoke away from the frame, so that it crosses over the chain line. bend the spoke back in line with the chain at the point that it crosses over. bend the spoke downwards so it will push into the chain. bend it quite alot so it has a lot of spring to it. bend the tip of the spoke back upwards so it doesn't hook into the chain. takes alot of trial and error, and comes down to luck an experience. be realistic about how much tension you expect it to give; if you chain looks like it could loose half a link, the spoke won't be up the task of keeping everything together, i use it on a bike with horizontal dropouts to take up that one loose spot that FFW causes. will add images if that doesn't make sence...

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=kWV6sZA7xrI hah why doesn't this embed?

it depends how competent you are at bodging things. it's down to luck and practice; i've been fannying around with them for years and my latest rendition has worked properly all year i've had others die in a single ride. get a few spokes, ideally as long as possible (roady length ***) find somewhere on the frame to hook the spoke. make a 'hook' with the spoke (use the non threaded end, the extra flat bit will help hook the spoke) then wrap it over and around your hub. get it as tight as you can, and as close the the frame as possible so it can't catch between the chain and sprocket. it should then be aiming back towards your cranks/bb. at this point i have ziptied the lower part of the spoke to the frame, leaving the top half free from the ziptie (so i can unhook the tensioner if the wheel has to come out) bend the spoke away from the frame, so that it crosses over the chain line. bend the spoke back in line with the chain at the point that it crosses over. bend the spoke downwards so it will push into the chain. bend it quite alot so it has a lot of spring to it. bend the tip of the spoke back upwards so it doesn't hook into the chain. takes alot of trial and error, and comes down to luck an experience. be realistic about how much tension you expect it to give; if you chain looks like it could loose half a link, the spoke won't be up the task of keeping everything together, i use it on a bike with horizontal dropouts to take up that one loose spot that FFW causes.

it has 380mm stays, according to rocknroll bikes, so you could run it with a spoke tensioner and 18-15 i guess?

times have changed danny, it's ok to run a singlewall rim on the rear. they're fine unless your neil watson or damon tunnicliffe, or TR scott or whoever

i wouldn't say the ti bb is essential, the best (read nerdiest) thing to do is compare the cost to the potential saving; pick the cheapest heaviest, and work out the value of the weight saving, it should highlight the best areas to shave weight effectively. your priorities should be in having light wheels/tyres, as they will dictate the feel of the bike the most...

from tribalzine

cause £20 for 4 bolts is mental, it'll cost a few quid to get them anodised; i'm already getting stuff done so it makes sence to get these done at the same time... and if i can get cheaper steel bolts, i'll have those as spares... purple

Yes but if your other grades in the module balance your total to be 40% or greater then you pass anyway

i think i have a copy of the obm bird somewhere.

it will remain scary, regardless of gearing, untill you do it quite alot...