ogre

lazy f**ker.

cod players aren't f**king around...

get excited... these look like fun

email hope?

try a bb7 on the rear, you could easily move it to the front if it wasn't for you with minimal expense. i had a 203mm rotor when i rode 26" and it was a monstrous brake, you'd only need a 160mm for mod though(front or rear). awesome stopping power, and cables can't freeze

yay more sheffield riders, found any of the locals yet?

right

look at putting better brake pads on the back tnns or phatpads are very popular for their high performance it'll give you alot more confidence if you know your wheels will lock up when needed. That and a better freewheel anything from here, except the ACS claw will make your bike feel great. after that upgrade as appropriate. The only fault with the bike is that the forks are very heavy for trials, look at getting some lighter alloy ones, if you get validated, keep posting like this and you will be soon... you could pick some up 2nd hand for a great price... try and find some locals to ride with too, it'll help your progress no end

they don't look right in raw usually trials frames look ace in raw, how odd, spray it brown or fluro...

ages, few things worth learning; being able to kick your pedals and bring your weight back at the same time so the bike rolls onto the back wheel, it's smoother and you usually have more control with it. next when your ok sitting on the back wheel, try letting go of the back brake and stabbing the pedal a little bit so the bike rolls along, before it whips out, lock up the brake to stop it, rinse and repeat... then when your confident with that add a jump to the motion and you'll be laughing, it sounds easy, but it's not, eventually it clicks and feels like second nature though

cranks with an integrated bash ring would be awesome, you'd get all the thread you need for a freewheel and have clearance froma tight bb set up?

disc rotors go in the dish washer, no detergent just salt...

it will stiffen up your brake, but with some pads this isn't the ideal situation as some give is needed for the pads to twist into the rim, or whatever, i just remember krisboats rambling about his t-rex with cousts on the back going from good to bad when he ran a booster. if the flex worries you stick a booster on there, no harm in my opinion, i run a built in booster and a booster on top of my brakes too...

just go for a tower and make space, and get your friends to come to you...

if theres enough thread to hold the bolt in (even loosely so it goes down but has no clamping force) you can use a jubilee clip to clamp the mount in place as a temporary fix, if you do this you might want to run a booster to reduce the increased flex that loosing a bolt creates, i've been running a jubillee clip on my brake since the end of the summer, i can't say i've noticed a great deal of difference, wilko's sell them, you want the largest one they do, they come in a pack of 2 for about a quid, so it's a pretty good stop gap if you're planning on riding in the week before sending off your frame...

if that doesn't work, consider drilling the frame and putting bolts in for snail cams, or look on bmx websites for some heavier duty cams or try wheel slammers...

when you get used to going the distance start to aim your force upwards and forwards and not just straight across, when you take off you'll feel like you've popped into the air more, cause the bike rides higher and you tuck it and you'll kain over gaps that size

they celebrated their exciting day by going clubbing

thought i'd share this with you lot. Coloured hydraulic hosing coloured braided hosing fitting kits they fit maguras and hopes, i know you all love your colour co ordination and bling...

slide it out and turn it 60 degrees?

have a play with it, the bit you suggested might be what you want, i've only usesd rohloffs and the try-all/tensile style ones, no experience with this one.

the one that makes the last jockey wheel push down, if you release the bolt that lets to slide the cage left and right and then rotatate the cage more with no chain tension (detach the whole thing from the mech hanger) pinch up the bolt and then clamp it back on...

NO! you want the tentioner to sit as high up as possible to maximise chain wrap on the sprocket, to reduce chain slap increase the tention on the spring...