ogre

this would be EPICS!

disc brakes make your riding look smoother. it never hurts to ride with a more delicate style it'll help your parts last longer

i'm no weight weenie, i'm with team pro2, although i wouldn't say no to an eno on the rear. coupled with a well made fixed hub, alot of them seem a little disposable. an 05 echo one, with the man-sized bolts would be nice...

you already are....

pro2s are good, but freewheels and threaded hubs are hassle free. it's easy to replace one or the other if something goes wrong. if you bought this it's prety heavy at 184g but you could easily cut it down to just protect where you need it most instead of 360 protection. plus if you ran a 108ep freewheel you'd have 132 effective engagements thats an engagement every 2.72 degrees, mm sharp. there's also the bonus of freewheels lasting longer on the rear since alot of the force of stamping on pedals etc is taken by the chainring and chain before it hits the freewheel. weight weenies: pro2 = 427g tryall cnc hub = 183g echo ti freewheel = 146g (329g altogether) thats 98g lighter... (even better when you consider the pro2 has no sprocket/spacers on it) £248 even a more budget friendly echo tr hub (193g) and tryall 108ep (179g) is 55g lighter.... £112.50 obviously you need to factor in the extra weight of more chain/bigger bash up front, and the weight not being as centered compared to FFW... i'm not ranting that out. i wrote numbers and stuff, thats good enough for 3 am INB4 bias, i run a pro2 an i love it long time, i just wanted to add some balance after rupintart had his pro2 moment. pro2 will outlast a freewheel any day (in my opinion)

to date you have TB_Python 134 posts in the angry thread TB_Python 107 posts in the happy thread i'll be watching

18-15 with a pro2 is like having a 57.6 click freewheel (on the front) ((15/18)*48) so you have an engagement every 6.25 degrees. for comparison an eno ffw offers an engagement every 5 degrees, an echo SL ffw has an engagement every 3.3 degrees...

no it's not it's 6 steps... 4 different lots of spokes are laced, (assuming you've got one built wheel there for reference you really can't f**k it up if you take your time) then you tighen it, then you true it worth mentioning that you really should take your time and if you know someone who knows how to build them, keep their phone number handy, and be prepared to pay your lbs to finish off the wheel if you f**k it up...

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fMI3m6WDgn0 parcelforce link rough idea for price it costs £20 to £40 to send a 15kg package from Lincoln to Leeds. price varies on distance, weight and how quickly/securely you send it. 15kg is obviously an over estimate for weight but it never hurts to add an extra 500g/1kg to the weight than lie about it being light or you might get stung with an extra charge.

cheap 160mm bb7 cheap lock ons

bargain! as for cable, XTR cable if you can find/afford it, it's really smooth etc. if you're keen on sticking with cable brakes, use some of your £40 to buy some good cable cutters there worth investing in you can even get your mates to pay a few quid to use em...

is everything tight? when you get the click, do your cranks jump or feel strange when you pedal? have you checked for a snapped spoke?

i may be there. weather pending

unless your a weight weenie... longer cranks = more leverage, so your gear feels softer, which is good for static moves. short cranks = better acceleration, you benefit if your into taps and pedal ups. in theory it's really a personal preference thing.

you've ninja'd that off an oldschool mtb? there a good idea but have you actually mauled it yet?

you could buy a whole wheel of duct tape for that price though

middle burns, tnn bash

why the echo SL rear rim? there quite expensive and aren't even that light? wouldn't a monty be a better choice?

i don't like using the cable guides, i think you should avoid having sharp bends in cables (reduces resistance and feels smoother at the lever), so i run my brake cable wide around my steerer tube letting it cross over the top of my frame to meet the caliper, then i'll tape it down to the top tube with some duct tape where-ever it seats itself the cable guides make the cable turn in to sharp in my experience (obviously thats fine for hydraulics)

i'd gie you 300 for it, like you paid you have an offer for it, check your pm.

just run rear freewheel? and use a 22/24 tooth setup? or buy a pro 2

bargepole mod with pro2s, un-snappable forks and chain

that makes them sound super weak... haha do you realy expect something to last if its cracked?

tom musson

i prefer stone cutting or metal grinding discs, i've taken nicks out of my rim i could have done without loosing from being careless with the tool with a metal cutting disc