onzatprodude

me too

i would say a little bit lower theres better spec t-pros for around that price on ebay/ for sale and wanted section...i would say bout £170-£180 ???

just get an 18t acs

theres loads of nice frames around. would you be wanting a long or a short one? and what is your price margin?

you could ring up hope im sure they do costom made ones well i think and they do them in different sizes and they cost about £25 edit: sorry i just saw the post up above

or a storker muhahaha or i could just talk to you on msn and ride with you occaisionally

Hey stop arguing people he might or might not know the rules report it and let a mod, admin or senior member ect sort it out.

Well i didn't mean fully wrap his finger around lol but thats ^^^ what i meant i was also finding it hard to explain cheers.

Sorry i might have worded it wrong i meant if he is finding it hard to reach he should move it closer to the grips meaning the actual lever not the body. I would place the body away from the grips so your finger will be on the edge meaning "better leverage, thus more power." Sorry for not making myself clear just sounded ok in my head...i guess

When i first started off i used to have to use 2 fingers on each brake. I always said to my riding 'pals' that i was stronger on my right hand and i wanted my brakes switched, and they where saying it will be like learning to hop and starting trials all over again... anyway i never got round to doing it but it only took me about another month and i was using 1 finger on rear and two on the front which shows that my left finger is stronger i would give it a bit longer before you decide to swap. you will get used to it. you can also try strenghening your fingers as i know a couple of months back someone made a 'finger strenghener' but i'm unsure on how effective it was . if you have hydraulic brakes i suggest you should move the lever as close to your grips as possible as you will be able to get a lot of your finger around to pull it instead of using the very ends of your finger tips. if all that and help off the other people in the forum doesn't work try switching brakes around. You can always switch them back if you don't like it

adding to what i said before... If you really hate running hard tyres, i know i do, you could just run them at yur chosen pressure and maybe take some tools and a puncture repair kit and just fix it when your out. OR you could buy another innertube take a pump, tyre leavers and spanner/alan key and change them around. This might cost a little more but will save you time waiting for the glue to dry then when you get home fix the puncture and use that innertube for the next ride you go on . I also suggest making sure you have enough/alot of tred on your tyres because running bald tyres normally results in getting punctures more frequently.

check here!!! ive checked the 1st and 2nd page but i found nothing on them videos so far ill have another look but theres 15 pages

i run inbetween 14 - 20 psi but someone who has a bigger build and ways alot more than me wants to be running more psi if you keep getting snake bites make sure you have lots of pressure in tem tyres then you should have no problem. i thinks its just what feels right and all psi will be different for different people.

use the search mate theres like 4 different topics on them heres ***1*** i got my monty tyre a few days ago but i have a monty frame so i cant help you on "if it will fit" but that topic should help ^^^ but im quite pleased with my tyre it sounds alot smoother and very grippy there a top class tyre imo

you could try some trials websites try ***tartybikes**** they have a wide range of different cranks and have a couple of different freewheels but you'll have to order persific ones edit: a few more sites... cleanbikes crc biketrialco

i think people tuck because they are pulling there bike as far up as they can so if you are just starting you shouldnt need to tuck... well not yet. i would do stretches before you ride so you are as loose as possible a would also do a cool down i know there horrible but should help you so you wont get stiff and cramp on the next day of riding. cheers edit: also hae a radox bath on a night they work wonders

make sure the disk is perfectly in the middle between the pads, use washers to adjust it. also dont pull the brake in while the disk isnt there, it moves the brake pads in and i think (if your brake is hydraulic) it breaks the pistons so ive been told. fergie

not really understanding your problem :$ but try and get some pictures and we might be able to help more could you not get a thinner rim so the pads arnt touching? cheers

because your a new member and new members can only post in new members chat to be able to post in the other sections you have got to include as much information/help in your posts this will help you get validated quicker cheers

i would get the koxx ones just because i have them lol but there really strong and look good too cheers

i think the black and white 1s(newer vesion) snap easier then the old ones (black and yellow) but i dont think you can buy them brand new you could get them from ebay occaisanally theres a pair on just keep an eye open cheers

QUOTE(deanie-b @ Mar 29 2006, 08:43 PM) ←HAHA Then how is it I get more punctures in my Front wheel than my Rear wheel? maybe? well thats what i was thinking

i use 'kenda' there fairly thick and ive had mine since bout noverember and only had 1 or 2 punctures and i run a low pressure in my tyres dosnt really matter what innertube you have in the front because it dosnt take as much as rear fergie

pad review you could have a look at that ^^^ personally i think zoo's are really good but if you dont have enough money to buy them every week then proberblys koxx browns i think there the hardest compound out of the koxx pads (?) and with a grind or even a little bit of tar they work really good cheers fergie

i think you should just go for 1 front and 1 rear rim 1. because the front wheel dosnt really get a beating and with the right amount of preasure in your tyres it wont get touched AND 2. because koxx designed the front to go on the front and imo i think they are going to try and build/design a front rim that is functional (does the job) whilst keeping it as light as possible a couple of my mates have had front koxx rims and had know trouble so it should be ok cheers fergie