trial-biker-ryan

why u think that? sure i want to get validated but i'm doing it the honest way

yea u got a point, i meant the tips i posted sorry. cheers for posting the website saved me tracking it down again

f.y.i i never said they were mine i said i looked on the computer...... meaning i found them on a site... sorry for the hasle but thanks too the guys who backed me up ill find some more and include the site for you lot.

i dont really like montys but thats my opinion, looks good 4 £150 though

by the way you can get these gel inserts from any good bike shop

yea pete ( modrider666 ) this is ryan ( fat kid with t-bird ) i have just ordered a new t-mag great

dont worry, id like to show case my new bike to! i like your bike alot by the way!

sorry anorack

dosent sound like a good idea because this would void the warranty on the brakes witch sucks! don't try it!

i went up a ledge and the bike came away from me and i landed flat non my face, and snapped my front tooth in half. i had a guitar lesson in half and hour. but i still went. im such a brave lad lol

it all depends on your weight and your stile. e.g.. if your 12 stone and a heavy rider you need a higher p.s.i or visa versa. but 20 p.s.i on a creepy crawler for an average rider is better

about 7 blue crates i'm only a bigginer to lol

i have orded the t-mag spec 1 2005 of trials shop today and i will up grade to gold zoo forks and a tri-all stem and will have a look around for some forks

bart! defenetly because i can relate to him always being looked down on @ school and he takes ritilin for his ADHD witch i used to take!

i never snapped my frame, i just could'nt think of a signiture so i made that up! glad my tip's helped. makes looking around on a damb comp for 3 and a half ours worth it!

ah ha! i had this problem too! it took me months on end to find out how to stop the pain! but... then i discovered a neat little thing that fits snug inside your gloves! gel inserts. they are think on the bottom and stop blisters and pain full stop! there reasonably priced to there about £12-15 per pair! and come in extra small, small, medium , large and extra large! and can hope this helps... ill start a new topic for this tip aswell ryan.

i have found some really good tips after looking around on the web for about 3 and a half hours! side hops (up) -- you will first want to determine your "favorable" side of the bike. Typically, most people have one side that they are more comfortable going to. It just takes experimentation to see which one works best for you. Once you've gotten that figured out, you will want to position your bike parallel to the object in question. Then, lean your body towards the back of the bike to help preload your weight transfer and unweight the front wheel, at the same time crank back the pedal in preperation for the pedal kick movement. Then it gets complicated; you will need to do about four things at once. Once you have the weight preload and the pedal crank done, quickly let off the rear brake and pedal, jump up with your body, and shift your body weight to the side you are going to. At the same time you will be pulling up and to the side on the bars. By this time you will (hopefully) be in the air, with your front wheel starting to go over the object. Then you want to bring your legs up as in a bunnyhop to lift the rear up in the air. At this point, you should be fully over the object, at which point you will want to plant the front wheel and let off the front brake, therefore rolling forward a bit and letting the rear wheel touch down. It's simple, huh? hopping to rear wheel from bash gard - This is one of the trials moves that requires a very exaggerated and vigorous movement to pull off. It's hard to do, but with some practice you can eventually get it. The best way to practice this would be to find a bench, low wall or stack of pallets that is high enough that you can rest your bashguard on it. From this position, you need to make a very dramatic upwards movement with your entire body, lifting with your arms at the same time. You practically need to jump off the bike upwards, bringing it with you as you go. When you have gotten far enough of the ground, you push forward with your feet, which swings the rear wheel under you, hopefully right on top of the object you were resting on. It's hard, and it'll just take practice to get it. If you can hop forward well, getting a bike length or more, you will probably have an easier time. Just over-exaggerate everything, doing more than you think is necessary riding up an object - If you want to get onto an object that is less than a couple feet high (approximately), the easiest and most straightforward way is to just ride up it. For most small objects it won't be necessary to do any kind of hopping, pedal kicking or japslapping. The two things you need to understand to be able to ride up something is using a pedal stroke to help lift the front end (as described in the previous lesson), and shifting your weight. To ride up an object, you'll need to do two steps. First, you will slowly roll towards the object, usually with your bad foot forward (to allow for a half pedal stroke). When you get close to the object (the exact distance will vary depending on the height) you will do your pedal stroke, lean back a bit and get the front wheel high enough to get on top. This is the easy part. The second step is a bit more difficult, and the timing becomes more critical the higher you need to go. What you need to do is quickly shift your weight far forward on the bike, which will unweight the rear wheel. At the same time, your want to pull in your legs a bit, and (similar to a bunnyhop) push the arms and roll the wrists to help rotate the rear end up. The idea here is to do these motions fast enough that you do not catch your bashguard on the object. Some people find that quickly locking the front brake, just for a second, allows them to do a small endo to help lift the rear wheel. As the object gets higher, the time you have to do the motions decreases, so practice doing both steps in rapid succession. Roll, pedal, lift, shift. Once you have mastered this skill, it is possible to smoothly roll up things even handlebar high hope this helps..... tell me what you think. it took me long enough to find.

steel or titanium sounds good!

as said before frames should not crack! ( that easly ) talk to the manufacturas of the frame and see what they say?

i personaly would say start 20" its alot easyer because the bike will be smaller and lighter, but it depends on your personal prefrance. you should go to a trials shop and try out differant types of bike.

cheers guys its a big help

dosnt sound too bad thanks alot for your help, i have £550 so far what would be a good choise to make out of that bike wise thanks for all your help ryan. ( is the t-mag spec 1 a good buy?)

hey thanks guys, i plan to buy a t-mag spec 1 and upgrade the handlebars ect... would this be a good choise? thanks for your help so far!

should i bild or buy a set up bike or buy a set up bike and add stuff to it? and are the zoo bars on www.tartybikes.co.uk any good????????

errm...i think there is a bit of a problem with the fact of safty down at my local skate park? out of like 300-skaters and 200 - bmxers an7 trial riders like 3 people out of the lot wear helmets! and i think its all do with looks, people find they look silly and stupid. i think if more people started wearing them other people would wear them! so the next time i ride im taking a helmet! www.newrampgroup.tk for all info on our brand new £450,000 skate park! take a look its worth it!